sblake01

Neither a mesh style wheel nor BBS RS is a wire wheel.

Again, see post #6........ Mods: You may want to lock this thread.....

If I remember right, your dome light is also on that same fuse.

2nd one down on the right IIRC.

Now that I look back at post #48, I see that Sarah actually said pretty much the same thing I'm saying. So allow me to apologize since all I've really done is muddy things up.:stupid: Carry on!

No pins on the connector for them in either the harness or on the side of the AFM itself. Same as my 79 810. If the AFM in your 78 has them (the pins), it's from a 77 or earlier.

See post #6........

Welcome. This is a great place to learn. I disagree with one thing however. I drove to work with coffee and 5 speed for many years:)

Seems to be a lot of that going on of late......:stupid:

John, you've been around here almost as long as I have. I sincerly hope your post doesn't mean your're leaving. That would be a shame since it would appear to be based on a response from a relative newbie who seems to lack the sensitivity/patience to coexist here. Ignore him. Oh, and props for the "Hitchhikers Guide' reference:)

There are no fuel pump contacts in a 78 (or later) AFM.

Glad you found the problem. In Bruce's defense for the "nyuck nyuck" comment, perhaps you're unaware that he sells carbureators (Z Therapy). It was meant in humor.

I wanted a Ferrari I'd buy a......wait, no I wouldn't, I couldn't afford one!

Not true. The dropping resistors bring the voltage at the injector down to roughly 9 volts from what I have observed. Top of page EF-15 mentions this though it doesn't state the actual voltage.

Yes, it was a 5 speed.

I never had any of those problems and both my 78 280Z and my 79 810 got better gas mileage than mentioned above. The 810 got 21-24 while the Z got 23-26. Neither of them failed emissions testing during my ownership and ran proprely throughout the RPM range. cozye mentioned wear and I'm wondering if that doesn't have something to do with it. My cars were both somewhat low mileage plus the fact that the EFI parts that replaced were new, never used parts that I purchased from Norm at OEM Surplus back when he still had those parts. So much of what I've read here has to do with trying to adjust or somehow compensate for things that wouldn't be happening if everything was working the way it was designed. And I do see some 'running in circles' as mentioned above and even some overthinking as I mentioned in another thread. I didn't have adjustable pressure regulators, insulated fuel rails, etc. My cars worked fine without those things as they were designed to. I know that's not an asnwer, it's just an observation.

If it's description is accurate, at that price, you could buy it, turn around and sell it and make money without doing much of anything to it.

Mine didn't have it.

What's not to understand?

He's in Oklahoma, you're in Washihgton. You might be better off trying to do something more local to you.

That's how I've always done it when using a floor jack.

I can tell you from experience that it works. I have a tool that's actually designed to remove hydraulic lifters but it also works for removing pilot bushings. When I get one that's really hard to remove, I resort to the axle grease/clutch tool/hammer routine. Us old timers seem to know the tricks like that one. bob m, my apologies if you're not an old timer.

This is the point at which this needs to drop. I'll only say one more thing. You say "I don't have an attitude". Actually, you do. You did the name calling by calling me a jerk whereas all is did was repeat your 'acting like a arse' comment. I didn't 'put you down' anymore than anyone else did. Chalk it up. You read a much more sinister intent from my posts than was intented. It's not that serious. Let it go.

Anything by Rush.....

Fine. You win. 2 to 1. I'm an arse and a jerk and you're just an arse. Enough name calling. I hope you find your parts.