sblake01

Hopefully this will help. It doesn't show the right side defoster nozzle and duct but that's pretty much a mirror image of the left one.

According to the cd, there was one from the beginning to 7/73, one from 8/73-8/74 and I didn't check beyond that. I recall Alan T. talking about dates that are coded that way, but I don't recall how to read them.

The Z Car CD says 26310-E4100 (high) and 26330-E4100 (low) up to 7/73.

I'm just referring to the same test you've been doing. Check the pressure while it's running and then turn it off and see if it holds. But using the adjustable regulator since from what I understood, it ran at 40 psi. Just adjust it down to the factory spec.

If you still have it, I would put the adjustable fpr back in and set it to 37 psi and then check the system for pressure leakdown.

Both my Z and my 810 idle at 37psi. I believe that that is a function of a properly operating fuel pressure regulator. I'd say yours is malfunctioning.

Yeah, K&N's are cool. I have them in all my cars. Not for any kind of perfmormance gain, only for the fact that they are basically a lifetime filter. If they actually filter better or give a slight power gain, that's a plus. But I didn't purchase them for that reason. If you added up all of the manufacturers claims I'd have what, about 50 extra hp now? K&N filter, DynoMax muffler, the Lucas products, Accel coil, etc. But no, just use the K&N for it's reusability. That's the only real reason I have them.

That's true but that has nothing to do with the flow of heat, only the direction of the air flow. I didn't answer eariler in this thread because my car has aftermarket air so it doesn't use the vacuum operated 'mode door' system. I am almost certain that his problem is vacuum oriented.

Thanks, Mike W. I just wasn't thinking 'outside the box' as they say since there was no John in the thread and I didn't open Will's link.:stupid:

John? John who?

Hey, don't knock it. I once owned a Pinto. In fact, at one time, there were five of them in my family. My dad, my uncle, my brother, my sister, and I (briefly) had them. I don't recall if we all had them at the same time. They were cheap and they ran. (most of the time) You couldn't give me one now, however.

Excalibur:

I've always been partial to the voltmeter. All they do is read voltage rather than carry charging current like and ammeter, so they don't run hot. Plus they read constantly (if they are wired un-switched) rather than only when the key is on or the engine is running.

I'm sorry I missed this thread. I've dealt with that problem on one of my cars. A bad temperature sensor, or a bad connection at the temperature sensor, can cause fuel mixture problems by not leaning out the mixture as the engine warms up. Which would also explain the fouled plugs. New sensors are available but most of the time it's just the connection. We touched on this in the 'aging man with aging car' thread if you recall that one. Gary, his car is running correctly now (I think) as his post is headed with 'well problem fixed'

I know I'm done with this thread. I see that dogma420 understands what I said. When I said "know it alls" it really didn't have much to do with knowlege of cars. OUT!

In your first post you say the car has an ECU. If so, it's a 280Z. There were a few left over 260Z's titled as 75's, since Datsun didn't quite have the 280Z ready for the introduction of the 75 models but they would not have been fuel injected. But later you say it has an L26 with su carbs which would indicate a 260Z. That ECU comment kind of throws me, though, since a 260 wouldn't have one. The "HLS" prefix denotes a 280Z (or a 240Z but I think we can rule that out).

I think he's just trying to be funny. He's a good guy and definately not one of the 'kids'. But your overall assessment of the site is pretty spot on. 'Tongue biting' is something that I've had to practice more and more on this site of late. Too many attitudes, too many 'know it alls', too many children. I understood the purpose of your thread.

I've seen those in the accessory catalog. So that would make it a dealer installed option rather than OEM.

We looked at this one earlier this week.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19797&highlight=ebay

Only if don't have much else to think about:)

75-83 280Z except turbo. Also 77-80 810 and 80-84 Maxima exc. diesel are all the same pump.

Ah, you've likned to all of the threads on the subject:devious:

Still doesn't work, at least, not for me.

Were you trying to link to this one? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19709&highlight=Honda+blower

Weren't there two seperate manuals for the 70 240Z?