sblake01

I looked at that one when I was looking for a crimper. I ended up getting the Atco 3700 because it looked to be a little easier to use. It cost me a little more but I've used it enough over the years to make it cost effective.

I believe 10/70 would be after the differential was moved.

Neither my 78 280Z or my 79 810 ever did that except when there was a problem with either the aforementioned items in post #2. The dashpot, which basically keeps the throttle from closing abruptly when you let off the pedal, was the anti stall device.

To each his own however mine is much easier to make and to use........

Check your BCDD. If it's a California car, also check the altitude switch.

If you need to test your switch, I made this up a few years back. It shows where the continuity should be with the key in the various positions:

Have you checked the plastic electrical part on the back of the switch?

If you're talking about an EFI car, you can put 12 volts to the terminals on the cold start valve for 2-3 seconds and it will release the fuel pressure. I've actually done it with a 9 volt battery. This is what I use. 9 volt batery, momentary switch, an injector connector and some wire:

He hasn't been here since April.......

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RedTek12a (as well as Freeze12) is a direct 'drop in' and doesn't require anything retrofitting. I would, at least, pull a vacuum on the system first to remove the moisture and to verify that the system doesn't leak. And, as I said earlier about RedTek12a, it's hydrocarbon based so it does have some flamable material in it's mix. And, about Freeze 12, it's been discontinued so the price is beginning to rise on it but I would still use it over RedTek12a. Here's a link to the RedTek site: http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_prod.html

I live in Southern California. It get's hot here too. Also 100+ degrees. I use R12 (while I still have some) in the Ranger and the 'Vette (my R12 cars). I have used an R12 replacement like Hotshot (R414B) - not my favorite because it seemed to be hard on compressor seals, RedTek12a - worked well but is hydrocarbon based, and Freeze12 - which would be my choice if I didn't presently have a few pounds of real R12 left. Don't care much for the prospect of using R134a in an R12 system because of the higher pressures. Hoses and seals/o rings have to be compatible with R134a which depending on the car, the ones in a R12 system may or may not be, and the design of the condenser and evaporator are such that there isn't enough volume for the proper cycling of R134a. I lucked into my supply but R12 is so expensive when and if you can find it. Not really sure of the cost of hoses made at the shop because I make them myself. The materials are relatively inexpensive but at a shop you'd be paying their mark up on the parts plus the labor.

I've never been in favor of converting R12 systems to R134a. Others claim to have had success doing that but it's not something I would do.

Just curious: What do you get out of this? You're all over the internet on all kinds of forums........

AC supply places like Johnstone Supply carry schrader valves/service ports etc.

I make my own AC hoses especially for the older vehicles but I have the equipment to do so. Find an AC shop that has bulk AC hose, a hose crimper, and the necessary fittings.

He paid for it too......

My opinion would be with him also If that had been what he said rather than making a blaket statement and then trying to defend it by knocking anyone's opinion that differed. Now, I promise, I've got nothing else for this thread. Life is too short.

Seems to me that if everything was okay prior to the clutch going out and the clutch is the only thing you changed it would have to be the culprit. Why would you suddenly need a shroud if you didn't before?

The AAC vavle is located on the intake manifold and looks pretty much like an EGR valve. It's the furthest forward of the two. You have to look in the EF section of the 1981 turbo suppliment as it's not shown in the regular 1981 280ZX FSM.

I had that trans (84 Maxima) in my 78. The fill on the other side didn't cause any problems. And it mounts exactly the same as the Z/ZX 5 speeds.

That looks to be some type of cooling system sealer.

The word of three guys that 'do it for a living' coupled with the fact that the four vehicles I presently own with electric fuel pumps are 'deadheaded'. Not trying to take sides here but, as they say, I'm just sayin'......

If you still have the stock 3.36 differential, acceleration though 1st and 2nd won't be as crisp as your stock 4 speed. Most of the 5 speed cars had 3.54 and up.

It says it on the back.