sblake01

If it's an 81 or 82 with a N47 head and you believe it's the whole engine from a Maxima then it's an L24E not an L28. That makes sense since I doubt anyone would put that head on a L28. Your problem may be the EFI liners in that head.

AFAIK, they're still available here too. But not the correct one for a 240Z. What you have there is a 280Z splash pan for your 240Z. You gave him the 240Z part number, he gave you the 280Z part.

We talked about the differences a couple of years ago. The first one is up to 9/74 and the other is 10/74 up.

Ya got me!

Yes. The plate, disc, and t.o. bearing have to match up with the trans.

Here's a clear view of the tag:

Doh! I guess if I would have looked past the sticker I would have recognized the hubcap.:stupid:

To me, that looks like an aftermarket hubcap with a Datsun sticker on it.

Well, you can try that if you want but stuck closed, the car would overheat, stuck open it would be slow reaching operating temperature but it wouldn't be the cause of what you described. On another note, what thermostat are you using? OEM or aftermarket. I only ask because the OEM Nissan thermostat is better due the the larger opening.

Not a larger diameter flywheel. How would you get the starter to work? I just has a larger diameter surface machined on it for the 243mm disc and 9 bolt holes for the pressure plate instead of 6. 2+2 and Turbo clutch are identical.

I assumed that he changed the cap considering that he changed the radiator, etc. The EFI cars have those small coolant hoses I mentioned that are often overlooked and are a PITA to change.

This pic shows the differences.

Oh, I don't know. I've done a few of them. It's not the dissasembling that's not for the faint of heart, it's the reassembling!

It doesn't look correct as I don't have that red wire looping around there ant the blue wire into your left connector seem to be missing or it just doesn't show in your picture. Here is a couple of shots of mine that is untouched as I've never done anything to it and I'm sure the PO didn't. Best I can do without removing the battery.

Do you have a junkyard near you? That would be your best bet. I have plenty of those lug nuts but the shipping would probably be more than I'd charge for the lug nuts themselves. They're a Nissan only item. Same lug nut was used on the Swatika, the Iron Cross, the Snowflake, the 810 factory alloy, the so called 'Black Pearl' wheel, and I'm sure many others. 40224-R4670 is the present Nissan part number, and they still have them, but you really wouldn't want to buy them new since they're about 7 bucks apiece.

Then that would make the Leafs the St. Louis Cardinals of the NHL. But, I'll admit it, I don't know squat about hockey.

I've been through the bad idler pulley thing too. Does your car have A/C? I'm pretty sure it does being a 78 2+2. I think it was standard on those. Shoot a little WD40 on the bearing area of the idler pulley. It won't solve the problem but it will stop the noise for a while if the pulley is the cause but it will come back. That way you'll know if that's what needs to be replaced.

An A/C shop should have a refrigerant identifier and they could tell you what kind. You don't have heater hose. Heater hose would burst upon the initial charge. It's bulk barrier hose with hose clamps but the fittings are barbed making it virtually impossible to remove the hoses without cutting them from the barbs. Your hoses are probably old and if that system had 134A in it, that didn't help the situation. In the old non factory systems you should run R12 or a R12 replacement. Those systems weren't designed to work with 134A. I have a non factory system in my 78, charged with Johnsen's Freeze-12 and it's worked fine for over 6 years since I rebuilt the compressor and changed the hoses.

I don't know, I think I'd leave that one where it is unless I needed a parts car.

I don't know about that. The hoses on both of my cars would be 'tight' if you squeezed them after running the car for an hour. I would check all of the coolant hoses including the three small ones on the intake side and the one that t's into the lower water neck as well as the heater hoses including the ones under the dash, and the heater valve itself, and make sure that you have no seepage in those areas.

Ah, wwwwhhhhhaaaatttt????

You know, I've went through that exact same thing myself when I bought my 78 in 1997. Including having to bump the fuel pump control relay (the larger of the two-#1 in the pic) to get the car started again. I would bet that that's the only one that's bad. I didn't change the smaller one (#2) and the car has been fine ever since. It's been so long the I had forgotten that episode.

You don't really have to remove the wheel to get at the fuel pump. It just gives you a little more room to work with.

Unless you have a picture of a 78 fuel pump mounted on the car:)