Matthew Abate

I was sitting and contemplating my parking brake situation, and it occurred to me that it may be possible to change the ends of the cables to connect to the maxima calipers properly. The Maxima had cylindrical ball ends on the cables rather than the clevises the 240z has, similar to these: When I have a chance I’ll measure and see what would fit. I’m looking around now to see if there are kits to replace these, but I could probably make them out of steel rod. It’s just a question of making them stay on. Maybe welding them would work if I can’t find a reliable clamping mechanism that can be done at home. I also found a couple of places that make parking brake cables, so I am looking into that as well.

That’s what I’m using. The thinnest ones I’ve found are 3mm plus the foam tap they stick on with.

So now that my brakes are stalled out again, I am contemplating what to do about my wheel situation. Recap: I have 14x6" Shelby Cal 500 slot mags. They are just ever so slightly too tight to allow the balancing weights to clear the maxima calipers in the back. I bought some low profile balancing weights that are 3MM thick and cleat the Toyota calipers in the front, but the back is still an issue. I am not into the idea of shaving the maxima calipers to accommodate wheels that I have always planned to replace some day. I'm writing this post mostly to collect my thoughts in one place, but comments and corrections are always welcome: I've seen a range of maximum backspace on a 240Z going from 4 to 4.75 in the front and 4.5 to 5 in the rear Optimal offset for a 240z is 0 in the front to prevent tire scrubbing when steering, regardless of wheel width Maximum tire width to clear the inside of the stock fender is probably 215mm (I have Eibach springs, which have lowered the car 1.5 to 2") 215mm is also the minimum tire width on an 8" wheel Original tire diameter for a 240z was 24.95" I have seen people recommend a 7" wheel width for optimal handling 15" tire selections are getting slim

After reading these links, I think fabricating a bracket that corrects the errors of the kit is the solution. The only other option that doesn’t involve modifying the cable is buying the Silvermine brackets, which might give me the same problem in the end.

Got another conundrum: The after market e-brake cable I got from Z Car Depot is not fitting nicely with the rear caliper kit I also got from Z Car Depot. Funny that, given they market this kit as working with the factory e-brake cable and this cable as working with no mods, but I digress... The slot for the spring clip is very close to the brace on the cable that makes it clamp to the bracket. Not surprising and I should have expected that. You can see how much thicker the Maxima bracket is above. I’m going to have to cut some new slots for the spring clip. I’m not excited about it but I can do it without screwing it up (I think) if I use hand tools and take my time. Also, the end of the cable with the clevis is binding up in the hook on the caliper. I thought of making some linkage, but that puts the clevis too close to the bracket and it gets bound up. I’m thinking I need to squash it so that it fits in there a little better. I’m not stoked about this either.

So this is interesting... The fittings on the bottom of the ZX master cylinder are m16x1.0 to m10x1.0. I am not seeing anyone selling a fitting this size online (mine look like crap) but I also haven’t looked that hard. I’m going to check my 240z MC and see if those are the same thread sizes, but at first glance they are definitively different hex sizes. Edit: I found them for the Willwood 1” MC, if anyone needs that, but I am pretty sure they are SAE male ends: http://trs-store.mybigcommerce.com/direct-wilwood-master-cylinder-to-datsun-brake-line-fitting/sku

So I know this is a slightly old thread, but I have a slightly different direction from what’s been mentioned that might work with bigger brakes. I have maxima calipers on the back and Toyota calipers on the front. The 14x6” rims I have fit but the wheel weights the tire shop used hit the calipers. This made me realize that a Datsun rim isn’t going to fit, so I am looking at getting a 2007 Nissan Sentra spare tire rim (PN: 40300-ET077) and fitting a Yokohama Y870B - SIZE: T135/80D16 tire to it. This should be similar to what @SoCalJim uses but closer to the stock tire diameter. I haven’t verified that the offset for that rim will work, but a spacer could solve that issue. The other thing I need to check is if that tire will fit into the spare tire well. It should be 24.9” in diameter inflated. The wheel is 4” wide plus however far the center sticks out (it’s a front wheel drive wheel). Maybe this will all work out.

Okay, I was able to accomplish a few things this week: I received and installed the hatch bracket from @zKars and put the strut in. This made it a lot easier to get the final alignment of the hatch done. I polished up the storage box handles I got from @7tooZ (photo taken between for comparison) And I cleaned up the 280ZX master cylinder I got on eBay I have lots of cleaning on the MC parts to do and various rebuild parts coming in the mail, so that will take a while. I should be able to get the brakes totally finished by the end of February.

Thanks, but I want to stick with the ZX-sized tanks. I found a set on eBay and picked them up. They were more than I wanted to spend but I will have them Wednesday, so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

So, I’ve been collecting random brake parts, and one of the things I grabbed was a 79 ZX master cylinder. I am planning to rebuild it, and I have everything, but the reservoirs look... questionable. They still hold fluid and don’t leak, but they aren’t pretty. I know it’s a long shot, but what are the chances I can get a NOS pair from someone who’s been hoarding a set in their basement? I actually only need the big one (46090-P6500) because I have a little one that is close to if not exactly the same as the original (46091-U0502). Its either that or I reuse these or get some tilting tanks or something. PS. This is where I got the part numbers: https://parts.bayridgenissan.com/a/Nissan_1979_280ZX/_51504_8122687/BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER/S130_US-201101_460A_1.html

This is what I was referring to: https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-rear-hatch-glass-reproduction-no-international-shipping?variant=13934211694701

Has anyone had good luck using a 260 or 280 rear glass in a 240 to solve this problem? A cursory Google search tells me the grid is the same and the only difference is that the glass is 5mm thicker and would need a different rubber seal, but I’m sure it’s more complicated than that. If it works maybe that opens up the available used parts enough to be able to just replace it. at this point I’m thinking I’ll polish the grid off and forgo it. The only other option is the series 1 reproduction, which is $850 before shipping. While I like the look of the vertical grid, I don’t like it that much.

Does anyone know if the OEM glass pieces have any films on them? If repairing the grid isn't an option, I may have it polished, but I don't want to burn through any films that may have been put on either side.

True, but new cars have this, so it must be possible. Maybe it's up to the place that does the tinting.

A couple of thoughts I had while reading through this thread: Can we can an inventory of all of the materials tried so far (stencil tape, various paints, etc.) and a review of their efficacy? I can't look right now, but I think maybe the OEM grid has a slight curve to it that makes the lines look straight on the curved glass. If I am correct, then the Frost Fighter may pose a slight problem in looking correct. Has anyone done a masking test to see which tapes do the best job? I am intrigued by the cellophane tape idea mentioned earlier. One thing I have been considering is recreating the grid in software, having a vinyl sticker mask made from that, and airbrushing the paint on after I apply the vinyl sticker. Then I won't need to remove the grid that is there. I just need to find. the best paint. However making the mask with tape might be faster and cheaper. If I make the vinyl sticker it could be reproduced and distributed. Another thing I am trying to find is a company that does these restorations. I would much rather take it to a pro to have restored. My grid is about 20% missing due to a sticker that pulled it off when I removed it. I am considering tinting my glass after I fix the grid in order to protect it. My car is a resto-mod with a bunch of non-reversible changes, so factory original isn't a concern for me. Those who are worried about the paint coming off from cleaning might consider this. (I am also considering buffing the grid off and adding a third brake light). Last thought, take a look at the electric guitar world. Conductive paint is used to lower interference in the pickups to get a cleaner sound: https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/shielding/conductive-shielding-paint.html

I'm reviving this dead thread because I have the same question as the OP, which was never answered. Has anyone installed a kit from Restored Air? I was looking at the Bantam and the Vapir 2 and Vapir 3 S. I am also looking at this one by Auto AC Solutions.

I could really use some help understanding the interior fabric for these cars, and the options for my year in particular (1973). I started a separate thread about this: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64974-understanding-original-carpet-interior/ If anyone has good photos of how the sills are supposed to be covered, the differences between the various carpet kits, how the spare tire well is trimmed, etc., I would really appreciate it.

I am looking into the options for carpet in my 7/1973 240z and have some questions about what was original. My car didn’t have much of the interior when I bought it. It was kind of a husk on the inside. In reading about the carpet options it seems that generally people think the Newark Auto 11-piece kit is the best, followed by their 7-piece kit. Please disabuse me if this assumption if I’m wrong, but it’s what a few days of Google has turned up. I’m also seeing that “some cars” had rubber in place of 4 of the pieces, hence the 7-piece kit. Does this mean not all Zs had the diamond quilted vinyl on the transmission hump? What was happening on the outer edges at the sills? I have the trans hump vinyl in a box, and my firewall had what seems like mat-board behind the dash, but not carpet. I’ve put Dynamat down on the floors and will be putting foil-backed insulation over that. I may put carpet padding between that and that carpet, but either way I will need to go to the sills with something, whether its carpet or the afore mentioned rubber (?). Advice and photos of your setup are appreciated.

Thanks!

Sending you a direct message.

Stumped on two things: First, can someone remind me what this is and where it goes? I can’t find it in my notes: Second, does anyone know where I can get the piece that the rear hatch lowers strut bracket bolts to? I’m talking about the piece that is up under the body discussed in this thread and looks like this: I know I have one somewhere but can’t find it. I have a feeling I am going to have to fabricate one.

Gave the Toyota calipers a quick spay to make them match the maxima calipers... @Zed Head was right about the rears being on wrong. Got that fixed. Unfortunately I can’t find wheel weights that will work on these little 14” Shelby rims without hitting the calipers. Unless I can find some that are 2mm thick I might have to get new wheels before this car can go on the road.

Update to the sway bar bolt question: I got an email back from the manufacturer and they said, “Ok I cross referenced and go ahead and torque down to factory specs on those pivot bushings.”

@Zed Head Here is a picture of the instructions for the sway bar brackets. I am thinking of putting a 1/16th inch thick washer between the bracket and the point where it mounts in order to create the gap but also be able to torque all of the bolts to factory specifications. —- In other news, I installed the Toyota front calipers. They’re only finger right right now. I have some 5mm longer JIS bolts coming in the mail tomorrow. Im just bummed that the calipers aren’t the same color. Looks like I have a caliper painting project in my future. 1. Marked the material to remove from the dust shields 2. Removed as little as possible with tin snips 3. Test fit 4. Filed smooth, masked, and sprayed with POR-15 Top Coat 5. Caliper in place (Finger tight) 6. Left front after a quick wipe down

I’ll post the instructions when I get home this afternoon. Do you think I should flip the calipers to the opposite sides? Right now I have them on the sides they would be on in a Maxima.