wheee!

I second the internal frame spray. Works great.

Another day, another lesson learned. Had the dash apart trying to figure out the lack of rpm signal. Turns out I’m just trying to send a digital signal to an analog gauge. Ordered a signal transformer that converts the nice square 5v signal from Haltech into a psychotic voltage spike like the coils used to send to the tach. Then tested my temp gauge and discovered I have a dead sensor in the thermostat. Gauge is good. Buttoned up the dash for the 562nd time. Life is good.

Some more video of the engine revving along with exhaust notes. IMG_3327.MOV

Well, today was a milestone. I was able to get a solid baseline tune on the stroker. The new version 2.0 of the OneSix CAS solved my voltage issues and some adjustments of the IAC got the engine idling like a coffee can fill of rocks! But that’s normal for a stroker with a monster cam I guess. The hard revving engine sounds like a fighter plane at hi revs. So very happy and thankful for all the hard work by Richard Boyk getting the tune smoothed out.

Its good to have a list of criteria that you are looking for, but unless you stumble upon another barn find, there seems to be less of these "original gems" available. Considering the habit of these cars rusting on the boat ride over the ocean to start with, most have at least some cancer after 40 years. Having said that, at least people know what you want and can offer their vehicles based on those targets. Good luck with your search!

Antenna drain hole...

What is your price range? With all your criteria, you are looking at a car north of $35,000... A truly rust free version with those criteria may be north of $50,000

8500W LiftMaster Great opener.

A shot of the fuel map and pressure readings. IMG_3310.MOV

Very lumpy... [mention]zKars [/mention] Does it sound familiar?

Just the panoramic setting on the camera. It’s a big front garage.

Just going to leave this here... IMG_3304.MOV

In other news, I finally got the front garage converted from standard 8’ lift doors to 12’ lift doors. Same size opening but removed three feet of angle hangers from the ceiling along with the centre pull openers. Now I have doors that go to the roof and no messy hangers all over the ceiling! Lots of room for the future four post lift...! The direct drive side openers are super quiet and have built in Wi-Fi and MyQ as well.

Well, remember how it sounded like it was running in two cylinders? It was... 1 & 3... all the rest were out of order. Amazing it ran at all. But of course, my brain was thinking that was impossible as I had the correct firing order! Trying to outsmart a computer....

Somehow I have an injector issue too.

That is one of the issues... I have a few more tuning bugs and hopefully will have it running soon.

Ever hear the story about the guy that wired his injectors and COPs for Haltech in 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order instead 1-2-3-4-5-6 cylinder order? Yeah, that’s me... I’m the idiot...

I didn't mod mine in the end because I switched to an aluminum radiator instead.

Yup. Story has been out there for a while on this one. Cool find for the owner.

ZeddFindings rails are very good. I have installed a set on my car. However, they do not incorporate the slight bow near the radiator and this did cause some small mods to be made. See the pic of what area I'm talking about.

I have a new CAS from OneSix on its way. We are testing a theory that the one I have may be a dud.

Got so much done today!! ... cleaning that is. Half the shop done!

The original prop valve is very close to where my brakes are proportioned. I have the AZC trak pak of huge Wilwood’s front and rear. Paired with the 15/16” Master, the Wilwood prop valve is only for fine tuning. Most people have told me it isn’t necessary and I have it set wide open for the moment. I’ll adjust as needed.

I just bolted mine over the stock safety valve.

Ex Dodge Polara owner myself. Seats 12 comfortably.....