wheee!

I might have said something unkind about Rotaries at one point. But I don’t see how that’s relevant.... [emoji13]

Understood, however in this case the car is not running, merely turning over and backfiring a few times before dieing. I have seen the log files and can easily see the synch and home results with errors for the other tunes. The issue with the last "tune" was the meltdown instantly upon reboot of the ecu. The starter was not engaged and the car was not running. I am running the Elite 750, but while i'm getting it tuned, It is the remorte tuner who sees the screen as I am over the engine holding the remote start button and feathering the throttle body....

The engine never ran during that meltdown. It all happened the instant the tune was rebooted in the ecu and the ignition was quickly shut off (Key ON position, turned to OFF). I have a copy of the tune on the laptop that I emailed to the tuner for his perusal. I expect that there was a glitch that happened suring the reboot and fried the COPs. I will reload a clean tune (that was cranking the engine without issue) before I plug COPs back in.

Well after another remote tuning sesion, I am not much further ahead. The CAS seemed to be syncing but was still not providing a consistent signal for the Haltech. We tried a few different settings including batch fire injection and wasted spark. That's where things got interesting... the COPs melted in seconds of loading the tune, even before starting the engine. ☹️ Basically as soon as we rebooted the ECU (as you have to after every ECU software change). I don't think it was the tune as much as a glitch in the Haltech that caused the COPs to latch power. Only three melted. I believe it was cylinders 2, 4 & 6, but I might be wrong. I should have written that down before pulling them. I am waiting for the arrival of some new COP's to reset the software and try again. I also moved the Home signal from one reluctor to the other (B pin to C pin) on the OneSix CAS to see if that helps signal fidelity. Tim (from OneSix) apparently recommends that we use Signal Ground from the Haltech versus Home and Trigger ground in the wiring, so that was done as well. I opened the valve cover and inspected the cam to see if any of the keepers/lash pads had slid off, causing valve issues but alas, they were fine. So no easy "aha!" moment to be found there. I ordered a NOID light test kit as well, so I will confirm the injectors are firing as they are supposed to. I confirmed all the injectors a re working properly with a 9v battery test. Clicking away happily. The Individual spark was confirmed prior to the meltdown. Hoping to have some good results soon with the new COPs. If not, I think I will have to consider trashing this CAS and rebuilding the engine setup to run a crank trigger. Not what I wanted to do....

terrible. In the meantime, we are preparing for snow...

Easy fix...

I don’t think it’s as much a Haltech issue as a mechanical one. CAS seems to be working fine now.

The engine runs but too rough to idle or start off zero throttle. I rebuilt the harness for both spark and fuel today so they are known good and are Delivering proper signal. Timing is locked at 10 degrees BTDC.

I’m thinking I might have a flaky injector or two. Getting signal but no fuel. I will check them all independently next. If it’s a bad cop, it’s harder to diagnose. Need spares.

Spent an hour on the phone with Haltech support remoted in, running better but still off.

Guess I owe everyone a Timmies.... no issue with the wiring. Running a bit better but still having problems.

Who wants to bet a Timmies that I have an injector wiring issue? Remember my colour coding issue? I thought I had it right but then again, I had to rewire all the injectors when I swapped them out sooooo......

Close... IMG_2862.MOV

Well, back on the Z this week. Installed the 5.1k and 6.8k resistors but no joy. Got in touch with Tim Heilbloom from OneSix and we decided to cut off one tooth for a 24-1 configuration (still sequential). No joy. Now I am working with negative voltage values to get spark and synch under 300 rpm. This is a process.....

Nice progress.

Those look familiar....

This is the schematic of the wiring courtesy of the immortal [mention]Captain Obvious [/mention]

The new unit sits perfect all by itself on the bracket.

Further back in the thread I have some pics of the older bulkier model I installed. Not a lot but the basic idea is to re-use the dimmer knob you have by removing the rheostat on the back end, attach a small bracket at the end of the dash metal behind the stock shaft and join the two with a section of rubber tube to create a soft join that flexes and absorbs torque. Here’s a pic of the old unit installed before it failed due to a short I accidentally created at the glove box.

Here is the PWM I ordered from Amazon. It is small and easily adapted to mounting behind the stock dimmer shaft and connecting via rubber tube for flex and smooth operation.

Been busy with summer stuff, BUT.... I did receive the new PWM modules to repair the led dash lights. Full dimming and off capability again. Much better units. No pics of the install as it was tight quarters in the dash area. I also received the third set of seat heaters and finally got all the pieces as ordered. Yeeesh. Now I have fully functioning heated seats! Yay!

Several spot welds

Some metal gets “distorted” for sure... but the factory weld there was ugly to begin with.

Tim has suggested I cut a tooth off the wheel If I can’t get a good voltage signal. I have also just received some resistors that are recommended I install in line to improve signal quality. I haven’t had a lot of time to play with the car lately.