wheee!
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Everything posted by wheee!
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Wow! Very impressed! Looking forward to the day I am at the same stage with the same colour paint!
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I have seen it done both ways... good and bad... If yours is indeed a salvage, let's hope it was done professionally! Looking forward to the answer to your question.
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Sounds like your car may have received a new front clip, firewall forward.... that's a little iffy...
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Your 280 looks a lot further along than mine ! My 370 was purchased while I was deployed in Afghanistan... I sooooo wanted a 280 while I was in high school but could never swing it back then. The 370 was the closest thing to it and the 350 just didn't seem right (as a relative of the S30 series; just wasn't the same design). I am loving having the 280 now, and at a time in my life when I can afford to restore it properly! Time and money wise ! * I can't tell from the photo, but make sure the heads of the bolts are thinner than normal to clear the hood... special head design for the fenders.
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Here you go.... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/14-1223
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My experience so far has been that the gasket material needs to be a specific thickness as well as the two sides need to be torqued evenly in order to produce a uniform and clear "horn" sound. I expect that once I reassemble the car I will need to fine tune the sound by adjusting as necessary. I don't think rtv is a good solution as it will be an inconsistent thickness and may muffle the diaphragm completely. Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....
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Fuses change with an Allen key, not a big deal and change easily. The case has o-ring seals at the wire entry points to make it water resistant. It is a very well constructed unit and should perform well. I will probably include a positive distribution bus in sequence with this too. Keep things off the battery terminal... Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....
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Parts to replace the fusible links arrived today. Works pretty good and I have installed some test fuses that are the flat metal style. They should act the same as fusible link wire. Need to source more accurate amperage sized fuses. Voltage indication is accurate (according to my digital power supply) and fuse integrity LEDs work good too. Voltage indication goes out in about 30 seconds of inactivity of current draw. LEDs stay on but draw near to zero amps.
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Mine was not "clean" IMHO... There was considerable buildup inside the manifold prior to cleaning. Don't let the shiny outside fool you. The first pic was after lots of sanding etc! Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....
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Parts arrived today. Works pretty good and I have installed some test fuses that are the flat metal style. They should act the same as fusible link wire. Need to source more accurate fuse rating fuses. Voltage indication is accurate (according to my digital power supply) and fuse integrity LEDs work good too. Voltage indication goes out in about 30 seconds of inactivity of current draw. LEDs stay on but draw near to zero amps. Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....
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I ran mine thru an industrial parts cleaner (water based, not solvent) prior to shaving and polishing. Came out gorgeous after an hour in the high temp water. When it goes back on the car, the block fumes are going to a catch can for separation. pic of intake after cleaning (and some polishing )!
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Some good info in here!
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Not that I am aware. You can add more windings theoretically to a stator but the rotor has only so much surface area to create the field. As much as i would like to stay stockish, the commonly available gm alternative makes more sense to me. Plus I really wanted get rid of the external voltage regulator and the associated wiring. Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....
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