malder

what is the best thing to replace this with? Can I get an OEM or aftermarket unit? Is there some sort of upgrade or some sort of swap that I can make? I know I've seen and heard of others swapping braking systems with other cars... is this the road to go? Thanks for the input.

I'm having basically the same problem as in this thread. Since I've had the car (about 2 months and loving it) the tach has just gone to about 4K and stayed there whenever the car was on. Today I decided to try to figure out what was wrong with the tach and took it apart. I found that the wiring had been fooled with because there was 2 white wires from the little harness that were just looped back on eachother (they had been cut before) and then on the yellow wire someone soldered on some sort of variable resistor or limiter(it had a little dial and when it is turned, the tach goes higher or lower). All that to say - I'm not that interested in keeping the origional tach, so what tach could I get to replace it (autometer?)? Any experiences? Any links to the gauges you bought or prefer? Am I going to have a hard time wiring it correctly? Thanks for the input. Matt

I am having some problems with my brakes. First, they are not very strong. They won't lock the tires up and I have to put a lot of force on them to just get them to stop quickly. What could be the cause of this, or is it just how they are? Just within the past week I have noticed a new problem. When I apply the brakes, the engine's revs increase. The harder I apply the brakes, the more the engine revs. It never revs more than a few hundred, but it still it annoying and makes stopping a little more difficult. Any idea what could cause this problem. Like I said, it just recently started happening and I haven't changed anything on the car. Thanks!

Anyone know what the stock weight of my '72 240Z is? What is the difference in weight from a 240 engine to a 260? What is the best way to cut weight? Thanks!

I have both bought and sold quite a few things on ebay and have had mostly good experiences. I am currently having a bad streak - 2 auctions at the same time that look like they're going south. You just have to keep in mind that Ebay is just like any other marketplace in that good people sell so they can make some money and dishonest people are there to pick your pockets. I have sold things and charged a flat shipping, just to make things easier. It is a pain to charge actual shipping. I try not to short myself, but I try to not gouge the buyer at the same time. I personally like it when shipping is predetermined so I know there are no suprises after the auction closes. Myself, I'm all for ebay. I have sold some things that I otherwise would have probably just thrown away. I have also purchased things on ebay saving myself much $$$$

My dash in my '72 240Z has 2 large crevasses in front of the driver and passneger. I know it is expensive to find a replacement for this and I've seen the covers that MSA sells. I don't particularly care for either of those options. So- I have been considering trying to fabricate my own dash. What kind of difficulties would I face when attempting this? Anyone done it already? What materials are best? Aluminum? Fiberglass? I think I would buy aftermarket gauges and stereo, making the dash around these. Am I crazy?:stupid: Should I just leave the dash alone? thanks!

After my first full day of having a running 240Z I have to say that I am in love. This is a great secret that all of you have been keeping from the greater public! I'm glad I got mine! It's a beautiful thing. Now I just can't wait to take it to the Autocross! Anyone in southern california going to the May 18th race!? Have a ZZZZZZZ day!

That is just the thing. I have replaced a broken starter that didn't have a fusible link on it, so I don't have any reference. I'll see what I can find. Thanks for the help.

I don't suppose I could get one at an auto zone or kragen? I haven't seen a wiring harness in the bay, could you tell me about where it is? Thanks!:stupid:

I believe I need to replace the fusible link for my starter. The Haynes manual doesn't really say anything about it except to put it in the wiring diagram. Can anyone give me a clue on what I replace it with and how I replace it? Thanks

The old starter was actually broken. The solenoid housing end was cracked off. I'm new to this - fusible link? thanks for the help

OK, that is how I figured. I hooked it up that way and when I try to start it the starter is DOA. I turn the key and the tach bounces a bit and settles of 4k, the brake light is on and all the other electronics (lights, antenna, etc...) seem to work fine. Any idea what this might be? Thanks

I fear the previous owner may have jury rigged some of the electrical. I have the Haynes manual, but I still am not clear on how the started should be connected. I just bought a new starter and am trying to hook it up. Haynes p.150 fig 10.19 shows 's' 'b' 'm' terminals. I found the black and yellow that goes to the 's' terminal, but I don't see any black cable for the 'b' terminal. Is this the negative battery cable? What is supposed to be on the 'm' terminal? Where does the battery positive connect to? Thanks for all the help!:stupid:

Got my '72 240Z about a month or so ago. It had no gas tank, so one of the nice members on this board sold me one! (thanks again David!) It had been sitting for a year or more, though before then I saw the owner working on it and it was running, if not great. So, I got it all hooked up the best I could figure it was supposed to per the Haynes manual. It seemed pretty self evident. I changed the oil/filter. I just want to know if there is anything else I NEED to do before I gas it up and try cranking it over. Anything I should check? Anything I shouldn't do? Thanks for the advice. Matt

Please excuse my ignorance. :stupid: I have been looking for a gas tank for my '72 240Z and haven't had much luck. I haven't looked all that hard, but I am wondering if this might be a good option for me. Are there drawbacks to this sort of system? Would it be street leagal here in California? Would I be better off finding an original tank? Thanks for the input.

well that makes things sound a lot better. The plates still have '95 tags on them, so I assume that it hasn't been registered since. Mind telling me exactly how you went about not paying any penalties - so I can attempt to do the same? No, I'm not military, though my cousin just re-signed and oddly enough he is from Cali. shipping to Fort Hood 1st Cav. in July. Maybe you two should trade! :stupid:

My car is a '72 240Z All body panels/bumpers are near perfect. Some tiny dents and only one very small area of rust on one rocker panel. I live in the LA area. Another question - Would it be worth it to do something less intense than a full tear down? Say redoing the interior, putting some decent paint and freshen up the engine? Thanks for the input.

I am new to the old car thing, but I have wanted to fix up an old fast car since high school. I am not really interested in restoring the car to original, but more making it my own creation - with taste. I am very machanically inclined, but have limited experience fixing cars. My father-in-law is a very experienced machanic. That said - would it be wise for me to try to strip my Z of everything and make it "like new"? Is there any way that I could keep driving it while this is going on:stupid:? If no, how long am I looking at not being able to drive it? Any idea of how much money I am going to spend while doing everything myself? Thanks for all the input! Matt

I just got my Z and it hasn't been registered in about 7 years I believe. As far as I know it has been sitting in a driveway broken down. Question: How will the DMV treat this? Will I have to pay them a lot of $$? Thanks for the help!

thanks! That's what I wanted to know.

Will this 1983 280ZX gas tank. Perfect shape, from my race car. No rust, no dents.OEM tank, Best one around. fit in my '72 240Z? Thanks!

Thanks! :classic:

I think I found the numbers on the block. There is a little raised place that has these numbers L26 050847 That L looks like an L, but it is curved, so I'm not possitive. Does this give any useful info? Thanks for all the advice!

I live in the Los Angeles area. The interior is in fairly good shape for how old it is. My friend is an upolsterer, so I hope he'll redo the seats for me as they have some tears in them. I am not particularly concerned with restoring the car to original specs or anything like that. I am more interested in something to enjoy driving AND racing. That said, are the stock carbs my best bet or is something more modern a better option? If I'm not mistaken, I would have to replace the intake manifold also, correct? That lime green is one... errrr... interesting color. The paint job isn't the best, so some of it shows through. I will be getting it painted someday. I think I will make it yellow - don't laugh. I like yellow cars. A funny side note - when my mom saw the car she was quite suprised and told me that it is the exact model that my dad picked her up in for their first date. That thing attatched to the fuel pump is an apple juice bottle turned gas tank! They rigged that up just to work on the engine because the gas tank is bad.