malder

I have no doubt that it is possible to fix. The car is not special in any way that I can tell other than being a Z. Thanks for all the responses. I think I'll just part it out and keep an eye out for a nice shell. Maybe build it from ground up. Matt

What I thought was merely a moderate rust problem is actually quite severe. Nearly all of the metal from the firewall back to behind the seats is crumbling. I took the car out for a short drive and heard a strange sound. The support that hold the wheel in place (don't know the correct term here) broke off... So the question is - at what point is the car just not worth fixing? I love the car, but I know at this point the cost to fix the body would be quite substantial. I know this is a little sacreligious around here, but I'm looking for honest and pragmatic answers. I don't have tousands of dollars to dump into even making the car roadworthy, much less the capital required to make it what I want it to be. The car is worth maybe $1k now? I know I can get more for just the parts... should I just part the car out? Thanks _____ added some photos so you can see...

Thanks for all the help... they are 15's. I think $450 is reasonable for the rims with the Khumo's that are on them, no? Matt

exactly, Doug... I just want to know if I can get enough for my current wheels. I like them ok, but THESE would be sweet. Thanks for the help. Matt

Here is a picture of them... I suppose that will help. I really had no idea that these rims were popular. Personally, I think they are just OK.

I have someone who wants to buy my wheels, but I have no clue how much they're worth. They are like THESE, except they are chrome, not black. They are not in perfect shape, but they look ok. They also have tires with only a couple k miles on them. Any idea what I should ask? Thanks Matt

I saw it. That was quite tragic. Not that it makes it any better, but that was the first fatality in WRC in 12 years! That certainly says something about the sport's focus on safety. If you've ever been to a local rally, then you know that they put a lot of focus on the safety of everyone invlolved. So sad about Park though. From my side of the TV he always seemed to be everything they made him out to be. Certainly a great loss for the sport. :sleepy:

You beat me to the punch. I was going to say that I watch it on Tivo, so I can't really relate! You can also ussually download the rallies via bittorrent. Check torrentspy.com or mininova.com and search for WRC. The quality isn't the best, but it's useful if you miss a rally!

I felt sorry for Petter. That rally was his the entire weekend. If he drove like he did in Japan maybe Loeb would have some competition!!

Just ordered the MSA pump. Thanks for all the help.

it is a stock mechanical so far as I can tell. I rewired the whole car and there is a nice little lead for a fuel pump. I called around to find the price for a new mechanical pump and the prices are ~$150. I figured it might be a good time to spend the money to get a good electric pump, no? Matt

My fuel pump seems to have quit pumping fuel. I tried to get it to pump fuel into a jar and it was bone dry. I disconnected it from the gas tank like to test if it was sucking and it was pretty weak. I took it apart and everything inside LOOKS to be fine :disappoin Any suggestions on where to go? I was thinking I'd try that RX-7 pump that has worked for others, but my local junk yard was no help there. I also found this little pump, but I've read it is reliable, but loud. I don't know if I want to spend $50 to find out if it's too loud. Or maybe I should spend a bit more and get something like this ? :stupid: Matt

I don't know of any official name for those switches, but I just call them aircraft switches. Painless makes some great stuff (check out their switch at summit racing ) If you check out my photo gallery you can see what I did with my turn signals. I just used an on-off-on type automotive switch and it works just fine for me. Matt

How much play does your distributor rotor have? I know there is some centrifugal advance that will move if you really twist it, but I'm talking about just turning the rotor with minimal pressure. I am asking becausemy rotor has about ~5-10 degrees of play. I am just wondering if this is making it difficult to get the engine timing just right. thanks Matt

since I rewired my Z it is running really poorly. It misfires very badly when cold and is only slightly better when warm. The power band totally goes flat at about 3000RPM. Timing is @ 7degrees. My mechanic friend and I were moving the timing around yesterday and it only improved slightly...I have the Pertronix ignition. I know the carbs aren't tuned to perfection, but I don't think it should run as poorly just because the carbs aren't just right. My friend recommended I should start by getting some new spark plugs and then we can start narrowing it down and get it running smoother. Any suggestions for where we should start looking for the problem? :classic:

I know I've had a few discussions with different members about rewiring the Zcar. I just finished with a Painless wiring harness and it works great. My application is a ::cough:: bit out of the 'stock' application, but I think it would work great if you wanted to keep it stock. The idea for this car is that I can drive it to the track, but that's about it. If you are curious about rewiring or are going to do it, then I would definately go for a painless kit. They have very good tech support as well. Check out my gallery for some photos of the install. The little center consol that I fabricated is ignition switch/button, turn signals, lights and one switch that isn't being used yet. It was certainly a learning experience. :stupid:

That's what I am getting at. The idea is to get the air from as far foreward as possible. Right?