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Help me not break something....


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Got my '72 240Z about a month or so ago. It had no gas tank, so one of the nice members on this board sold me one! (thanks again David!) It had been sitting for a year or more, though before then I saw the owner working on it and it was running, if not great.

So, I got it all hooked up the best I could figure it was supposed to per the Haynes manual. It seemed pretty self evident. I changed the oil/filter.

I just want to know if there is anything else I NEED to do before I gas it up and try cranking it over. Anything I should check? Anything I shouldn't do?

Thanks for the advice.


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Well, first off i would suggest using the "search" function for posts about storage, etc etc.

But basically, visually check everything, maybe pull the plugs & give each cylinder a shot of oil, let it sit a bit & slowly turn the motor. Not a bad idea to unhook the coil when first cranking, to allow the engine to get lubed before taking right off. Maybe even pull the valve cover & oil manually if its been too long.

Otherwise, a basic tuneup- plugs, wires, oil/filters, check ignition system..

These are really tough cars- i doubt you'd hurt it to just start cranking her over, but i tend to baby my babies:love:

Good luck, Jeremiah

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If it has been sitting for a year and you just want to crankc it over to get it fired up I myself would do the following

1. Drain carbies of fuel - probably gone to water:cry:

2. Change Oil - probably gone to sludge

3. Remove plugs

4. Drop down some oil (tablespoon in each) into the chambers and leave overnight- just for any rust spots that may have formed on the cyclinder lining.

5. Clean up points

6. Replace plugs

7. Turn over engine without spark to get the oil moving in the cyclinder (remove rotor button)

8. Replace rotor button, cap

9. Cross fingers and fire her up. :classic:

Once you het it started don't keep it going for too lon. Only enough to have a listen. I would then get the rocker cover off and do the valve clearances and also making sure that oil is coming up the oil ways.

The above assumes that you have strong spark at the plugs, fuel, water and a strong battery.


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  • 3 weeks later...

When you pull the pluggs remove the valve cover at the same time . Do this after changing the oil. I use Marvel Mistory oil but engine oil will work, squirt about a tsp. full in each plugg hole let set for a few mins. . Now with the plugs out and the valve cover off manually oil the cam and rockers, then spin the engine with the starter. Give it about five revolutions let it sit for one or two mins. , cool off starter , then spin the engine again you might oil the cam again , spin once more. I would repete untill you see that oil is being pumped to the cam. Install the valve couver !Or you will paint the walls with oil. Put in the pluggs and start the engine . Keep the engine running at 1500 to 1800 or so while it is warming to keep the oil pressure up, and you are good to go. If the old oil was real dirty when you changed it I would change the new oil and filter at 500 miles , and at 3000 there after. use good oil such as GTX or

Quaker State I use 10W40 Quaker.

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You may not get oil to the cam by just cranking the engine. You may have to actually fire it up before it will get oil to the cam. After rebuilding my engine, I cranked and cranked and cranked and cranked, recharged the new battery, removed and reprimed the new oil pump, refilled the oil filter, even tried pumping oil through the oil pressure sender hole, and cranked and cranked and cranked and cranked and no oil at the sprayer bar. By this point I'm wondering if my bearing lube is gone and I'm grinding all my new bearings to dust. So I took the chance and fired it up, and immediately painted the engine bay and fenders with oil. Moral(s): don't wait around too long for oil to show up at the cam while cranking, and put the valve cover back on before you fire it up. Good luck, Victor.

ps My 240 had sat for 20 years and I am definitely having problems with "varnish" in the tank clogging up the electric fuel pump filter(maybe you don't have the electric pump). The "varnish" is appearing as a very fine powder(almost paste) that shuts off fuel flow after a period of time. We'll see how many times I clean the filter before breaking down and sealing the tank. Just a warning on possible future problem unless your tank's a good one.

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