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The seller is a regular. You can spend some time and look over his prior auctions. All the content is still there. He follows the same general formula for each sale. You might we wise to copy it. Also, there are a couple of Z collectors with deep pockets that hang out there. If more than one gets really interested, it's game on.

REALLY! I've been watching BAT a lot over the last few months and purchased a 240Z through the site. I've looked this one over and it doesn't seem like it is THAT much better than the cars that topped $40k... I mean if it is at $45k with 7 days to go, I estimate closing price will be above $70k. That is what I mean by THAT much better. Motorman7 - you thinking about it?

It's at $35k. What the hell...

HA! (I knew it would be ridiculous) Screen capture below. Sorry. I also have heard that Greyhound is a good option on large items, but I'm guessing base on what I have heard that it would be $70-$90. Just a guess though. A Greyhound station is 4.8 miles from me. You should contact them with the below package dims and weight (probably 20 lbs instead of 15) and see what they quote.

Hi, What did you pay for the Just Dashes dash restoration? And were you happy with it? GLWTS (good luck with the sale)

Didn't get a chance to do this yet. Should be able to tomorrow.

I can. However, I don't get any kind of shipping discounts and would have to see about buying a box for it. It is likely to be oversize and therefore, expensive to go FedEx. If you provide your zip code, I can grab the info from FedEx online and at least let you know what that cost would be.

The fender is still available. I don't have a spare driver side one though. Garrett

Ok, I need 71. Thanks.

What month and year are the guards from?

Price drop: $250 for all (four wheels only), $300 with tires.

I have the following for sale - these parts lived in a dry climate and have been in storage for many years:  Two 240z hoods. Both are OEM and in very good condition with no rust. If you would like more pictures, I can get them for you. Just getting this listing up fast because I could use the space. hood 1 $300: hood 2: $300 Two 240z tailgate/hatches. Not aware if there are any aftermarket versions of these - these are OEM. Both of these have the original Nissan glass as well. Tailgate/Hatch 1 (slight damage to rear edge) $150. This first one has horizontal defrost lines. I do not know if the defrost grid is functional. The lines look to be in good condition. The glass is in excellent condition. No significant rust anywhere. One piece of stainless trim has a mark: Tailgate/hatch 2 $250: This one is complete with original Nissan glass, stainless trim, and a white inner trim panel. This hatch came to me via the Denver area, and has no rust. I can get more pics. 240z fender - passenger side $250 - OEM part - straight, very little rust (only in the bottom corner): This part came to me from the Denver CO area - no accident damage. Does not come with the headlight housing which is currently attached to it in the pictures. That is also for sale however. Headlight housings - metal (left and right) - all mounting studs straight and intact with nice threads. $100 each: Again, happy to provide additional pictures.

I bought a 240z recently that was originally from AZ and was in storage for a long time. The car has an original Nissan exhaust system on it - exhaust manifold, front pipe, center section and rear. The original part numbers are embossed on the center resonator and the rear muffler (20050-E4150 and 20100-E4150 respectively). Both are in very good condition. 95% of the hardware is there also including the clamps, hangers, and chrome exhaust tip. Any ideas on what it's worth? I am going to restore the car, but not don't know if I will keep these parts on it.

Has anyone any experience with these door panels/cards I see on Ebay? They look decent...

Head is sold. Thanks.

That's the way it came to me as a New Old Stock NOS head, yes. I am expecting payment from someone who wants it. So, it is likely sold.

New Old Stock P90A cylinder head. Excellent condition. $700 plus reg Fed EX shipping to your zip code. See pics:

$330 for wheels only - $400 with tires on the wheels. These wheels are in really good condition. Round and none are curbed. The dirt/brake dust cleans off easily with a rag and some WD40. Full width from edge rim to edge of rim is right at 7 inches. Measuring inside bead to bead, I get 6.5 inches. Back spacing is dead on 4 inches. I got these with a car I purchased and the owner said he picked up these wheels from the local Z club president - in CO. Wheel lug holes have quality inserts with tapered seats. Even though these are copies of the Enkei 92, they look to be quite good quality. Will polish up nicely without a lot of effort, or clean them and run them as is. Note, one center cap is slightly different writing. Tires have some age on them but are in good condition with decent tread left. Two tires are Yokohoma AVS, and two are Nitto Radial HP If you don't want the tires, I will dismount them. Willing to ship the wheels only - will not ship with tires.

Located in Atlanta. This part has been sitting in a box for many years - obviously. Fits 240z. In excellent condition with rubber contacts to protect glass in good shape. No mounting hardware included (evidently lost). See pics. Hardware could be made, or ideally, you may have hardware but your louver may be in really bad shape after years of service. $80 plus Fed Ex standard shipping cost. Garrett

All the same, we get notified by email of new posts to these old threads. And in this case, I'm still alive to see it! Thanks mel marabante. I think a lot of people just default to the ZX turbo motors because they were already turbo. I don't think that is necessarily the smart way to go. If you are going to run the stock efi, then maybe. Others have the experience here - not me. I have an F54 flat top now and decided to stay NA as I'm not ready to drop the cash or time on all the custom parts that I'd go with if I went turbo. I mean, I'd want to go aftermarket efi, custom intake, custom stainless exhaust, aftermarket injectors, etc. The works! Instead, I'm putting together a tripple 44 mikuni, big cam motor for now. I'd be willing to bet I won't be happy when all is said and done and I'll be pursuing the turbo route I was thinking about in 2004!

OZ connection, understood. For all I know the porting I'm doing could be a big mistake or done incorrectly, but I'm changing the car's purpose. I have several other cars now and my Z has become almost exclusively a track time car. In the last year or so, I've done 3 track events and driven it on the street once. The cam that is going in is pretty radical. From posts on Hybridz.org, it seems that several believe my 10.1 compression won't be adequate. We shall see. I am also changing from the stock SU's and stock manifold to a long Cannon manifold and tripple 44 Mikuni's. The porting has to match the cam and the carb changes... So, before and after of just the porting isn't really important. All the work that had been done to the head previously has remained untouched. Basically, it was just new guides, seats, and valves with some smoothing of the bowls under the seats... I had previously matched the intake ports to the stock intake manifold, with porting limited to about an inch into the ports. Now, I have added some combustion chamber work to reduce the restriction around the restricted flow areas of the valves against the combustion chamber walls, enlarged the stock ports to 1.545" (while moving the openings up as much as possible - staying away from the bottom of the ports). I've also ported the manifold extensively... No flow bench and not a whole lot of info out there on what exactly to do - understandably I guess. We'll just have to see how well (or not well) it works. Diseazed, I'll send you the pm.

I'm in central VA, in case that makes it more convenient (but am happy to ship the head), and I am looking for an engine builder/shop to do a general check of valve and guide wear and a to perform a quality valve job. The head was originally redone by the guy that did most of Malvern Racing's machine shop work. It has Manley stainless valves (1mm larger intake) and hardened seats already. I've spent a bunch of time over the winter modifying the combustion chambers and porting it and a tripple manifold in preparation for putting in a high lift/duration cam and tripple mikuni's. So, the work I'm looking to have done is likely just a valve job and possibly the cam installation. I am looking for first class work. Who are the go to shops for Nissan L-series these days?

Yep, me too. My beater Honda Accord is my "snow" vehicle and it won't move with this much on the ground. Not used to getting more than a few inches at a time around here.

Anyone know where to get a good quality paper gasket instead of the hooker piece? I need one for my head because of the porting that has been done - as John C mentions. Is the MSA one any good? Garrett

I read the post(s) about stumbling with the long runner Cannon manifold. I am in the process of switching over from SU's to Mikuni 44's on the Cannon and I know I am not going to be happy with a stumble :mad: I am curious... Why would the Mikuni service manual specify such an incorrect specification? I hear what you say about the pilot jet and what you experienced. In a futile attempt to think through this logically, I can't understand why that would help. There are two things going on with the pump. The pump nozzle regulates the duration of fuel injection as does changing the length of stroke on the pump rod. According to the manual, the larger the nozzle bore, the shorter the duration of the fuel injection. And the longer the stroke, the longer the duration of fuel injection. Seems logical that by playing with the two, you could come up with longer/shorter duration fat or skinny streams of fuel injection (you evidently had the same logic or you wouldn't have tried what you did). And if these carbs are set up with 3mm of stroke instead of 7.5, then won't that greatly shorten the fuel stream injected - a potential cause of the stumble? Maybe what is needed is a really long duration, skinny stream of fuel... That is longer stroke, smaller pump? Also, according to the service manual, the pilot (fuel) jet is functional at low and medium speeds, or in another place in the manual, only up to 20% throttle opening. People have said that they get a stumble when at say 2-3k RPM and they punch it. Again, according to the manual, a lean condition is created because fuel being heavier than air, when the throttle plates open, the flow of fuel will lag behind the flow of air. And, once you kick the throttle plates open all the way, the pilot system should be out of the picture... Not sure why what makes sense on paper doesn't work in real life. I plan to buy a narrow or maybe even wide band O2 sensor and try to go about this as scientifically as possible. Did you use one when you were making changes? By the way, Dave from Malvern was a friend. I grew up in Charlottesville. I bought a hot rod 510 in college that he helped me with. He had me install a 490/290 Nissan comp cam in the L-20B 2.3L which also had 44's. Changes he had me do to the carbs? 34 chokes were too small for that displacement he said. Install 40mm chokes. Also, he said I needed larger pilots and pump jets. Pilots ended up being 57.5 and pumps went from 35's to 50's.