Carl Beck

Hi Nick: Sorry to say that I have never worked with the SR20's in any configuration so I really don't know much about them. One Z owner in Tampa has an SR20DET installed in his 240Z and I will say it makes quite a neat package. Sits will behind the front axles, saves weight and certainly is capable of high HP output. In talking to the shop owner I understand that the owner of the car has something over $8,500.00 in the installation so far. (complete engine rebuild, plus custom installation, inter-cooler, new turbo, new engine management system, etc. etc etc.). The shop owner thinks they are close to 300 RWHP... but we haven't seen any actual dyno runs yet. The main disadvantage to the RB's and as far as I know the SR's is that they are Japanese market engines, with a few exported to countries other than the US. So parts availability might be a bit of a hassle should you need something unique to those engines. Likewise finding and buying one that's in decent shape to begin with might be risky. That's one big advantage of the L28 Turbo's here in the US (you know you'll be able to get any parts you need easily and quickly). You can build an L28 Turbo that will put 250/275 HP to the rear wheels, have easy access to any parts you need and most likely spend a bit less doing it. (the L28 Turbo's are still easy to find for less than a grand in pretty good running condition). Of course the I-6 still has the advantage of better harmonic balance to start with. Here too we know these engines will run way over 300,000 miles without major problems. One advantage that I saw with the SR20DET in the first generation Z, was the amount of room you had ahead of the engine and behind the radiator core support - easy to run the inter-cooler plumbing and electric fans!! As far as modification go - I don't seen any "moral" difference between using an L28ET, the SR20DET or a Chevy Small Block... whatever you want and whatever you are willing to spend your money on. In all cases I prefer to see 280Z's used however ;-) They have stronger unibodies, all ready have gas tanks set up for Fuel Injection, and came with the R200 rear ends... if your going to gain all that extra HP a few extra pounds on the unibody won't matter much anyway. <VBG> FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA 69, 71, 72, 72 & 73 BRE-Z 83 280ZX Turbo

Hi Stephen: No fights - but I'd say: that one is comparing an engine designed for competition with an engine designed for production. There really isn't a whole lot new in engine design - so much as there are new materials, new engine management systems being applied. What's "modern" about the VQ is production effieiencies by design.. and emissions standards - both of which have driven total engine efficiencies to new levels. (both more HP per cid and better fuel economy). As for the basic layout, materials and head design - the RB of yesterday looks a whole lot like the M series BMW I6's of today. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "stable". An in--line six has naturally better harmonic balance - due to the firing order and more consistent application of torque strokes to the crank. Any given engine has been designed with specific design criteria driving the design. The VQ35 is a production engine, driven by cost per unit, as well as any performance criteria established for it - and all that - traded-off with meeting modern emissions standards. So combustion chamber design is based on emissions - as much or more than performance. The RB series engines have a lot of years of racing development behind them and are pretty well sorted out - you are correct in saying that that VQ's have a lot of years of development and de-bugging ahead. The RB series (design dating back to the early 60's) were "Racing Built" and one of the most expensive limited production engines Nissan (aka Prince Motors) ever produced. (the RB plant was one of the first one's shut down by Carlos as his cost cutting took over Nissan Japan). The RB's are capable of prolonged rev's over 14,000 RPM - the V series engines self destruct above 10,000 RPM (natural balance limits, less expensive construction, far less strong blocks are a very real limiting factor). Likewise the amount of boost either engine will endure. From a "Customers" perspective - the RB engines are far superior to anything Nissan currently offers. From "Nissan's" perspective the VQ is just the ticket... I guess "which is best" depends on what you want to use the engine for. If you are talking about durability, performance and/or Customer Value - the RB's were far ahead by design - of any of the Nissan V6's. If your talking about cutting costs, meeting emissions standards and still providing reasonable performance for at least the warranty period.. the VQ's are a wonderful design and a big improvement to the VG's in the Z31's and Z32's (rubber belts vs chain driven cam's). The V6 also offers far more "styling" flexibility for use across multiple platforms (with allow for mass production efficiencies for Nissan, fewer spare parts for the dealers to stock, less training for the service tech.'s - all of which save Nissan and their Dealers money. In turn that should save the customers money as well - so the VQ is certainly a cheaper solution). Lots of things to consider about the design of any engine... As for me, I'd take the RB series engines any day over any of the V6's. I'd take the L series in-line six's any day over any of the V6's as well. The RB and L series are simply better engines from a Customer's perspective, even when you throw in the cost trade-off's. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA

HLS30.com wrote: >Carl, I agree with everything you said, but what makes you feel that way. Books have been written in an attempt to answer that question.;-) What we are really trying to get to here is the subject and study of Esthetics and in turn the effect of esthetics on our emotions. What makes anything "beautiful" to the human eye, to the human ear? Symmetry , order, continuity, flow, balance. We are attracted to beauty because we feel comfortable with it. We describe things that we see or hear using the term "beautiful". We don't "normally" use the term beautiful for things that we taste, smell or feel (although there are times we might). The theory is that because we acquire most information from our environment in the form of sine waves - we are most comfortable with elements in our environment that comply to the same form. We "see" because we receive visible light in the form of sine waves. We "hear" because we receive sound in the form of sine waves. We breath rhythmically.. our heart beats rhythmically What is the opposite? Conflict, disorder, discord.... If you draw a single line to express symmetry, order, continuity, flow, balance.. that single line would be a sine wave. To men - in general terms again - the form and lines of the female body represent symmetry, order, continuity, flow and balance. In "Classic Cars" it's that same form and lines, that same symmetry, order, continuity, flow and balance.. Most people instinctively recognize beauty.. very few can create it. Beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder - but only a few exceptional people are gifted with the ability to move it from their conceptual minds into a physical form of some kind. That's why Chris is an Architect... and I had to settle for being an Engineer ;-( So why do we love that 240-Z? It's the female form and that is pure sex man!! If God made anything better- he kept it for himself! ;-) FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Guys: First and foremost the definition of any term is based on the best evidence, and in this case the best evidence is the definition that comes directly from the dictionary. Classic: {F or L; F classique. fr. L classicus, of the highest class of Roman citizens, of the first rank} 1. a: of recognized value : serving as a standard of excellence, b: Traditional and Enduring, c: characterized by simple tailored lines in fashion year after year. Classic: n a work of enduring excellence OK - so who is the Authority that awards the term "Classic" or "Modern Classic" to any specific vehicle? The answer to that question today is "no one" /"there is no specific list or source". The Classic Car Club of America defines cars built between 1925 and 1948 as "Full Classic". So as to not put that Model T in the same class of Classic Cars as say the 1957 Pontiac Bonneville or 1955 Ford Thunderbird etc. It is also generally agreed that a car should be considered to be a "Milestone Car" before being recognized as a "Classic" or "Modern Classic". In the 50's and 60's the definition of a Milestone Car was something closer to "a car that sets new standards in the publics perception and thus raises the public's expectations of Automotive Design and Engineering. (Since 1971 The Milestone Car Society of California has used slightly different definitions) Today most knowledgeable automotive writers and historians acknowledge that the Datsun 240-Z is indeed a Milestone Car, and that it is one of the ten most important automobiles in US Automotive History. The "Father of the Z Car" - Yutaka Katayama was inducted into the Automotive Hall of Fame in 1998 in large measure because of his shepherding of the Datsun 240-Z, from requirements definition, to design, to production and then to sales in the US. The Datsun 240-Z is a Classic because 35 years after its inception - it is still recognized as being of timeless beauty. It's a Milestone Car because it changed the perception of the buying public toward Japanese Automobiles. The bottom line is: The Datsun 240-Z is a "Classic" because it is proven to be of timeless beauty. If you were seeing the Datsun 240-Z for the first time today - you would think it had just left the design studio... FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Everyone: I should have noted in all my replies - my comments apply to North American HLS30 series cars only. I also wanted to tell/remind everyone that I maintain a listing of VIN's for the 240-Z's. If you haven't done so already, you can contribute to our knowledge base by sending me the VIN, Build Date and Original Engine Serial Number for your 240-Z. We need all three data points to make useful information out of it. The Date of Manufacture is on the drivers door jam data tag, the Original Engine Serial Number is on the data tag under the hood, screwed to the passenger's side shock tower. E-mail it to me at beck@becksystems.com thanks, Carl B. Carl Beck http://ZHome.com

Hi Zs-ondabrain: Just a point of clarification - I believe that you have slightly misinterpreted Mr. Humble's statement. There is a difference between the number of cars "produced" and the number of cars "registered". I do not know where Mr. Humble got his registration numbers. I do know that they add up to a total of 135,803 240-Z's. The "Production" number is closer to 153,000. From Oct 1969 through Jan 15,1971 - Nissan produced about 18,000 Series I cars (our highest recorded VIN is 17,827 at present). That's about twice the number "registered". They produced aprox. 25,500 units of the Series II cars (highest VIN is 43496) 71 Model They produced aprox. 54,000 units of the Series III cars (highest VIN is 100155) 72 Model They produced aprox. 53,000 units of the Series IV cars (highest VIN is 172767) 73 Model Year. Because Nissan left gaps in the Serial Numbers between the end of one Series and the beginning of the next Series... you have to subtract out the numbers in the gap's to get the actual production numbers. For example the VIN's stopped at 100155 for the Series III cars - the started again at 120001 for the Series IV cars - ie a gap of 20,000 units. regards, Carl B. Carl Beck http://ZHome.com

Hi 2ManyZ's: I would say that the VIN shows "the Model Information" and the "Chassis Serial Number". (just to be a little more clear) The VIN also shows the Engine installed also. HS30 or HLS30 has the 2.4L engine and is thus a "240-Z" S30, S30S etc has no "H" so it had the 2.0L engine and was therefore a "Fairlady Z" There was no need for a "fender tag" - as there were no options on the 240-Z except for the A/T. FWIW, Carl B Carl Beck http://ZHome.com

Hi sahunt66 The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is comprised of two main parts. HLS30 Gives you the "model information" 07736 Is the Chassis Serial Number H = 2.4L engine L = Left Hand Drive S30 = body type ie the Sport Coupe that is the Z body As someone else mentioned - 7736 is the chassis serial number meaning it was the 7736th Left Hand Drive chassis produced. I believe that my article which you were referred to explains how the Series I cars were titled. regards, Carl B Carl Beck http://ZHome.com

Hi Kats: The cap with the chain was OEM for the US Spec. 240-Z's. The rubber pad was there so the cap wouldn't scratch the paint as it hung on the chain. kind regards, Carl

Hi Guys: The picture I have can be seen at: http://ZHome.com/History/240ZSplashPan1.jpg At least on my monitor the color is pretty close to the actual item - of course your monitors might display it differently... regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Kats: Your Nov. 69 Parts List will also "show" a front and rear spoiler for the 240-Z - but we never got them either - here in the US. Does it "show" the rear anti-sway bar? (we didn't get that either). Lots of stuff in the Parts Catalog that did not come as "standard" equipment on the US 240-Z's. Nor did we ever get the 5.5 inch wide Road Wheels, even though they were approved for sale here and listed in the original Z Sales Brochures as "optional". (SCCA still won't allow them) I don't think there is any question that these items "existed" in 69, the original question, from Virginia was if anyone knew the original color and texture of the splash pan. The original color of the splash pan's - on the very few US cars that did come from the factory - with the splash pan's installed - that I have ever seen were all the very light gray. Every one that we ordered over the parts counter between 1971 and 1973 came into the Dealership in the same light gray. If someone ordered one five or six years ago - it very well could have been repainted in Nissan's inventory over the years. I've received many old body parts over the recent years that were indeed repainted in black. The picture of the Z432 - that picture is too dark to tell much of anything and that splash pan isn't shaped the same as the one's for the 240-Z - Is it??? It looks like it loops out wider on the sides - than the one drawn in the parts catalog and the one I have here. I'd guess that the original question was ask - because someone is trying to restore a 240-Z to ConCours standards. (Yes/No? - if No it wouldn't matter if it was "correct" or not - would it?) If I were a ConCours Judge - I'd still be looking for proof that any 70-73 240-Z was imported into the US with a "black" splash pan. Untill I saw that proof - light gray would be the color that scored the points for originality and then only on a very early 1970 240-Z. Right or wrong - the rules have to be documented and enforced until proven wrong and changed. Anyone have any Nissan/Datsun issued pictures of a 1970 US 240-Z with a black splash pan installed? How about pictures of a light gray one? FWIW, Carl

Hi Guys: I've been driving these cars since May of 1970. Worked at a Datsun Dealership from 71-73. Sold a ton of new Z Cars ;-) I'll have to agree with Joseph on this one. I've never seen a splash pan for the 240-Z's come from the factory either on the car or over the parts counter - painted black. Not saying it couldn't happen, just saying that if they were painted black - it would have had to have been many, many years after they were produced. I agree with Allen - many of the NOS parts in the warehouse have most likely been repainted over the years to prevent corrosion. For example I have three brand new rear quarter panels - two are painted gray and one is painted black. I say "Painted" because primers will not prevent rust - metal parts left in prime will rust because primers are porous (epoxy based primers are not as porous and will prevent rust for a longer period). Normally the factory just "dusts" on a very light coat of paint on. I can tell you that I ordered the splash pan for my 72 Z along with a radiator fan shroud over the Parts Counter in 72. The splash pan looked like plain sheet metal to me - but I agree with "Z Kid" - they must have had some other coating applied - nonetheless they don't rust just sitting on the shelf - so they are not truly plain "untreated" sheet steel. Most of them do rust after 20+ years mounted under the car and driven over the road. So it's now 12:44 AM here - and I'm on my way out to the garage. I know I have at least one brand new splash pan (I'll hope the part number sticker is still on it) and at least two that I've taken off my cars........ 1:36AM - - -Eureka!... I've found it! ;-). Part Number 74810-E4100 "Splash-board engine lower" (sticker still on it) When I get some daylight - I'll try to get a good picture of it. On close inspection - this one looks like it's been painted with a very light gray paint. ("Silver" would have a more chrome/metallic look - this one is a very flat finish - so I'll call it a very light gray). In the places that the light gray paint has been scratch - the metal underneath isn't rusting - and looks almost shinny compared to the paint - so I'd have to say that it was coated with something soon after it was stamped; and I'd have to guess a phosphate might be correct. The splash guard was not standard equipment on the US cars until late 73 - although a few very early cars (1970) did come through with them installed. (somewhat like the hand throttles - a few did come into the US on a few early cars). I'll post the picture when I get some daylight.. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Guys: I've put some pictures up on the Z Car Home Page. See: http://ZHome.com/History/CargoCover.htm Just so we don't get confused with terms. There were Nissan Factory Authorized "Accessory Items" sold over the Datsun Parts Counter. In many cases the Dealers added these items to the 240-Z's before the Z's were sold to the public. All Nissan Factory Authorized "Accessory Items" were covered by the Factory Warranty and all had an official Datsun Part Number. Most often they were re-boxed or repackaged from the original equipment supplier and were sold in either "DATSUN" or "NISSAN" boxes. (not always but most of the time). Then there were accessories that many OTHER after-market manufacturers sold. The Cargo Area Cover is one of these. At least through 1973 Datsun didn't offer this as a Factory Authorized Accessory Item. I had the installation instructions for this cargo area cover for years and years and years - now that I've tried to find it - I can't. If I run across it I'll Post it later. Hope this helps, regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Mr. C (everyone) So as not to mislead anyone. You always have to state "Production Year" or "Model Year" when your talking about "Series". In most countries - back in 1969, their "Model Year" was started with cars produced on or after 1 Jan. of the calendar year. So their Model Year matched the Production Year. The US and Canada were different - they started to produce their new "models" in July or Aug of the prior year - so that new models could be introduced and sold to the public in the Sept./Oct. time frame. So we always have to specify that we are talking about "when" the car was produced - or "what" Model Year it is. Here in the North American Market - there are 1969 Model Year - Series I 240-Z's, there are 1970 Model Year - Series I 240-Z's, there are 1971 Model Year - Series I 240-Z's and there are 1971 Model Year Series II 240-Z's. In Australia there are only 1970 Series I 240-Z's (that we have found so far). The Series I 240-Z's were produced between Oct. 1969 and Jan. 1971. Series I Z's were sold as, and titled as 1969, 1970 and 1971 Model Year Z's here in the US. This is because there were no Emissions, nor Safety Standards changes between 69/70/71 here in the US - and because the Dealers could sell them as 1969, 1970 or 1971 "Model Year" cars based on when the dealer received them - and when the dealer sold them - and depending on what State the dealer was doing business in. The Series II 240-Z's entered production in Jan. of 1971 and they are referred to as the "Late Model 1971 240-Z's" by Nissan. All Series II 240-Z's were sold as 1971 Model Year Cars. (In Australia the VIN's begin with HS30 00500) The Series III 240-Z's entered production in Sept. 1971 and they were all sold as 1972 Model Year 240-Z's. The Series IV 240-Z's entered production in Aug. 1972 and they were all sold as 1973 Model Year 240-Z's. (VIN's in Australia began with HS30 100xxx, and here in the States the VIN's began with HLS30 120xxx). FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http;//ZHome.com

Hi Gav240z (everyone) The last time I heard from the owner of HS30 00004 it was Harry Corbett - that was: 2/21/99 - If ownership has changed I'd like to up-date our records. Also "AutoSpeed" had a write-up on the car (or another low VIN) as I recall - in which they refered to it as a 1969 Datsun 240-Z. I wrote the editors and ask them to help us correct that misunderstanding. Mr. Corbett also agreed that the car most likely didn't reach Australia untill around May of 1970 and that it most likely had a build date of late 01 or 02 1970. If you get a chance to look at HS30 00090 please let me know what the original engine serial number is. Or if the seller has an e-mail address it would be good to have that. thanks, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi mperdue: See: http://ZHome.com/History/1970or1971.html

Hi Guys: I've never seen any emblems on the left hand side of the North American spec. 240-Z's. No A/T badging either. Nor have I seen any accessory items that would require holes that close to the end of the deck lid. FWIW, Carl

Hi Marilyn: It's worth about five hundred bucks. Send me your address and I'll have a truck pick it up and drop off the cash;-) Seriously - 90% of the Value of a 240-Z in most cases is related to the condition of the body. The first thing you have to know for sure - is there any rust damage, if so, how much and where. You need to get it out of the garage and have some service shop put it up on a lift for you. Then YOU need to get under it and inspect every inch of the undercarriage yourself. Don't let some prospective buyer tell you what is or isn't there... Then you need to get clear, detailed, close up, digital photos of the undercarriage, the rear wheel arches, the rear deck lid underside lip, the threshold plate that the deck lid closes down on. You also need to get clear digital photo's of the area under the Battery tray (yep -remove the battery). All these area's any serious buyer will what to see clear digital photo's of before they travel hundreds of miles to inspect the car. This is the fastest way to get serious buyers to come see your car. How long has it been since you drove it last? Get the radiator cleaned and replenished with Antifreeze/summer coolant, get the oil changed, get the brakes checked (don't fix anything just know what condition they are in so you can give honest answers). If it runs now - take it out and drive it for at least 30 minutes at highway speed -then drive it around town for at least 30 minutes. Be sure that when a prospective buyer comes to look - it's really READY TO SELL. A clean, rust FREE 1970 240-Z with only 88K miles (documented by the way)..in the condition one would expect a low mileage car to be in - no major dents, shinny chrome, clear glass, good tires, shinny ORIGINAL paint (or a very high quality repaint in the original color) should easily bring $6,500.00 to $7,500.00. The price goes down rapidly - for cracked dash, trashed interior, major dings and scratches, dead paint/repaint of low quality, color changes where the engine compartment hasn't been redone or is blacked out etc. The price goes down rapidly if the car hasn't been started and driven in the past two years, runs poorly, won't shift, has rust and gum in the fuel system, has brake cylinders that hang up and won't release (the car won't roll on a very sight incline, or comes to a stop quickly when allowed to coast)... In these cases the car needs expensive work - and the value goes down to the $4,500.00 to $5,500.00 range. RUST - in the frame rails, in the rear wheel arches, under the battery tray (rust holes through the inner-fender wells, firewall) etc etc RUST in the floorboards, in the lower front fenders etc etc. - - SERIOUS RUST damaged, regardless of mileage will put it in the $2,500.00 to $3,500.00 range. (no sweat with very minor surface rust). As you can see - $2,500.00 to $7,500.00 is quite a range... so YOU need to know for sure exactly - the condition of all the details. On the other hand, with the value of a dollar today - a thousand dollars one way or the other isn't earth shaking. You don't want to give it away - but you do want to grab CASH BUYERS - they are getting hard to come by today. REMEMBER - you will have to find a CASH BUYER.. no bank financing on that car - so no dreamers, no tire kickers... Let me know what you find - I do hear from people that are looking for nice cars and who do have the cash to buy them if the price matches the condition of the car. (e-mail me at the address below) good luck, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA IZCC #260 http://ZHome.com beck@becksystems.com

Oh... yes... If your State requires Emissions Inspections for a 1973 Model Year - it won't pass with the triple's.. In most places that's no longer a problem... in some places it IS. regards, Carl

"Any Tips" First and Foremost - you have to know what you plan to do with the car once you purchase it. You don't want a fix'er upper to turn into a Show Car. You don't want to pay a premium for a near perfect car - if your just going to race it on the weekends. Decide before hand what you are really looking for - and don't buy a car that doesn't really meet your needs. keep looking, keep looking, keep looking - and you will wind up with a far better car at a far better price. 1. The value of a Datsun 240-Z is 90% based on the condition of the sheetmetal in the uni-body. RUST is the biggest killer of old 240-Z's.... GET UNDER THE CAR and inspect it closely. Rust damage is very expensive to repair - keep looking until you find a good solid body. Go to California or the South Western States if you must. 2. Triple Carb.'s of any kind are rarely set up correctly for street use. I think I've driven about three Z's with good running triple's on the street in the past 33 years. If they need to be re-jetted, emulsion tubes changed, acc. pumps changed etc - you can easily spend $600.00 by the time your done swapping parts... If you are in the Norther States - see how the chokes are hooked up too;-) See if the owner has the original SU's and intake manifold - always good to have. 3. If it's equipped with headers - look for leaks, rust etc...(another pain the neck) 4. The second weakest point on the 240-Z's is the wiring - inspect the wiring harnesses in the engine compartment and under the dash (behind the radio).. if it's been hacked to death - pass. 5. If you haven't inspected at least 10 240-Z's - in a methodical manor - take someone that has with you. 6. E-mail me at my address beck@becksystems.com and I'll send you a Word Formatted - check list to take with you. Closely inspect every item and record its condition. Don't stand around and chew the fat with owner - they will always try to distract you when you really get serious about inspecting every item on the car. 7. If you have a digital camera - take it with you and record clear images that you may want to look back at later... good luck, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA 69,70,71,72, 72 & 73 BRE Z

The Z is about as Safe as the Driver. There is no such thing as a "Safe" car, your safety is in your hands when you drive. Nonetheless - "Safety" was a consideration when the Z was designed.. See: http://ZHome.com/History/240ZSafety.htm FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan: Thank you for filling in the complete story. From your information then, would it be safe to say that the collectors of things automotive should, or should not be, willing to pay a premium for "original" Minilites for their collections - vs what they are willing to pay for "real", "genuine" or "authentic" Minilites? To collectors the term "original" is meaningful and valuable in most cases. Nonetheless it's an interesting story... Can you answer the questions- Did the original production facility produce only Magnesium wheels before the buyout, takeover or move. Do you know when production re-started... we could not buy Minilites here in the US after about 1973 for the longest time (three or four years). Hence the group buy of aluminum wheels for the 240-Z's was such a pleasent surprise in the 90's. thanks, Carl B.