Carl Beck

Right - for the older style R-12 A/C rubber hoses. The do make rubber hose that is lined, or shielded that will contain the R134a Yes - for the system as you outlined it, I'd stay with R12. Freeze 12 May

...... because the 280Z dash is deeper... Many people have simply used the 280Z dash along with the 280Z evap.. Another option is to use the Vintage Air units inside the car. FWIW, Carl B.

People ask me all the time - "what should I look for when buying a 240-Z to restore?". We all have about the same answers - RUST FREE BODY, original, un-molested, perfect dash... So I thought I'd post this one, for discussion. Just check the floorboards and frame rails... See: http://zhome.com/Katy71Z/Katy71OrangeZ.htm Keep in mind that this one is here in St. Petersburg, Florida... not the West Coast... and the seller is flexible on the "asking" price. FWIW, Carl B.

The big choices I see are between having an electronic trigger for the spark - ie replacing the mechanical points with an electronic trigger vs upgrading to a full High Energy Ignition system. The HEI allows larger spark plug gaps that help fire the air/fuel mixture more evenly and which keeps the plug gap's clean. Spark plug changes become 25K to 50k events rather than 6K items. Over and above that you can go with the various multi-spark units... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi E. Point taken, but just so we don't mislead anyone....Bias-Ply tires were not Stock on the Datsun 240-Z in the US/Canada. I understand that certain models of the JDM Fairlady Z were equipped with them. We are still using Lead/Acid celled batteries... even if the cell is now filled with foam, or the acid contained in a material matrix... It is somewhat amazing that hasn't changed over the past 35 years with our Z's. Or for that matter over the past 100 years... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi E: No - actually it is not. ZCCA is Z Car Cub Association. The Z Car Club of America is a registered trade name, and the Club is no longer functioning (but the owner/operator and news letter publisher is still around - at least he was when he wrote me a few years ago). As originally conceived - the Z Car Club Association was an association of the Officers of Local Z Car Clubs, that got together to share thoughts, ideas and experiences having to do with forming and running a local Z Car Club. That was then expanded to include a group purchase of Club Event Insurance. So that the representatives of the local clubs could get together once a year, and work together - the Annual ZCCA Conventions were started. The Member Clubs to the ZCCA send their representatives to the ZCCA Meetings, and only those representatives have a voice in the conduct of the association. I've lost track of the actual number of dues paying ZCCA Member Clubs... at one time years ago it was something like 34 out of 70 in the US. I think it's important to keep in mind that the original GOAL was to get the local club officers together for self help and encouragement so to speak. The local "HOST Club" played HOST to the ZCCA Representatives. Over the years - somehow the ZCCA Convention seems to have evolved, and in the eyes of the outsiders (people that really don't attend the ZCCA Meetings at the ZCCA Convention) - - - it has become expected to be a National Level Z Meet.... My suggestion for the ZCCA would be to review their actual GOALS related to the Annual Convention. a) the Convention is for the purpose of getting the local club representatives together for a week of intense club management and promotional seminars etc. or the Convention is an open gathering of Z Enthusiasts from across the Nation for an annual Z Love-in. Trying to do both - means making trade-off's between what is desired by the ZCCA representatives for "their" Convention - and what everyone else that shows up desires. There are other alternatives for the Z Enthusiasts to consider as "THE NATIONAL MEET" ... The MotorSports West Coast Nationals.. Several other Annual Events like the Tail-of-the-Dragon that draw huge numbers of participants. So we enthusiasts have some decisions to make as well.... FWIW, Carl B.

Second Answer;; A/C in a 240-Z The 240-Z is a VERY HARD car to air condition. The three major problems I see/encounter are: 1. The Car Is A Greenhouse - huge glass area 2. Very poor air circulation though the long narrow cabin area. The seats and passengers block any real circulation of cool air, though the area with the greatest amount of heat - the rear luggage area. So at best you have only a small amount of cool air blowing in your face.. but no air circulating around your entire body, nor cooling the hottest areas of the cabin. 3. Air leaks...and an all but nonexistence of insulation between the metal body and the interior. In most places there is only a thin "dead air" layer for insulation. All this means that in very hot area's of the US - the original Dealer Installed, aftermarket A/C units are all but worthless. They certainly will NOT cool a hot car interior down, in less than several hours of driving. If you park the car in the shade, start out in the cool of the morning, you might keep the interior cool enough to live - but not when you have 115 degree heat driven by the bright sun beating down on the car (for that matter anything above 90 degrees is too much to overcome with these old systems). The Factory Air in the 280Z's was far better - partly because the 280Z's had better sealing cabins, more heat/sound insulation and far better designed A/C systems to work with. Even then, by todays standards for automotive A/C.. they really aren't what you would expect of a modern A/C system in any car. I used a unit from Vintage Air... a single,self contained combination heater core, A/C evaporator coils and blower motor all in one box (Super Cooler III). It puts out huge volumes of cold air compared to the old dealer installed add on units - and the Vintage Air system will keep the car cool when driving on the road... the problem is, it also dumps huge volumes of hot air from the condenser, directly in front of the radiator... A radiator in the 240-Z that was never intended to support an A/C car in stop and go traffic, in very warm area's. With enough time and money - most of these problems could be overcome... On thing that would help a lot would be a rear evaporator/blower/fan. Something that would get the air circulating though the entire cabin. Or a duct under the center console, that would deliver cool air to the rear cabin area.. The air flow coming out the vents in the dash - gets sucked back into the system under the dash on the passenger's side - so circulation is very limited indeed. Heavy Tinting on all windows helps.. New Seals in the doors, windows, rear deck lid all with proper adjustments - helps Additional insulation in the doors and rear quarters.. helps but so far - nothing adds up to A/C as good as you will find in any modern car.... FWIW, ..... living in Florida... Carl B.

Hi richard1: First Answer: R12 or R134-A really considered by themselves do not matter. Both have to be considered in the overall context of the specific system involved. Compressing a gas at one point, letting it expand and absorb heat at another point, then dissipating that heat at still another.... involves several different components in different ways. Because the molecular size of R12 is larger than that of R-134a each gas requires different design components to be used in the A/C System. For the sake of efficiency, in picking up and dissipating heat... the gas molecules have to be keep in close contact with the metal tubes in the evaporator and condenser. While the difference in molecular size of the two may seem very small...compressed and moving at high speed though the system, the very small differences compound to produce very large differences in results. So systems designed to run 134a have smaller diameter tubes and more of them, than systems designed to use R12. You can run 134a in an R12 system, but you will lose about 20% of the efficiency of the system - -- You can make some of that loss back up, by running higher pressures, moving the gas faster and conducting more air flow over the condenser and evaporator... but at the same time, you'll most likely be trading off system reliability and longevity. Plus having to install larger and/or more powerful fans etc. The rubber A/C hoses that used to contain the R12 molecules, will not do as good a job of containing the 134a.. it will slowly seep out, and in so doing, it will slowly degrade the old hoses as well. Systems designed for 134a have higher quality shielded A/C hoses. Likewise the compression fittings in the old R12 system, that were tight/secure enough to contain the R12, will not do as good a job of containing the 134a. Systems designed to use 134a have O-ringed compression fittings for that reason. Modern A/C systems, that were designed specifically to use 134a are just as effective/efficient as the older R12 systems. If you plan to keep an old R12 system - and you have rebuilt it with new R12 components to avoid leaks... I'd keep it filled with R12. Yes it is more expensive, but then it doesn't take much to charge a system in the first place, and the old R12 systems held their charge for years and years without a problem. On the other hand, if you are going to install a new system - make sure it was specifically designed for 134a. Aftermarket manufactures, and indeed A/C supply places will tell you either gas can be used in their systems. So many years after the change over to 134a, most of the newer system components have indeed been redesigned for 134a... but you still have to be careful when you buy... and yes quality components are more expensive in the 134a systems. The newer compressors (rotary type/style) can be used with either gas, as they all have o-ringed fittings in the first place, and the compressors are fully sealed to contain the necessary pressures. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jim: What can I say?..... I understand your perspective as an event organizer/worker. I simply have a different perspective to express. Respectfully, I believe that you have the focus of your attention and/or concerns placed on the wrong group of people, if the Annual ZCCA Convention is ever to become the event that it would be capable of growing into. I guess it would depend on what the actual "Goal" is. a) to hold a reasonable event year after year at the Annual ZCCA Conventions around the country; or to actually grow the ZCCA's Annual Convention Car Show into the Leading National Level Event for Z Cars that it could become. The number of Z's entered in the annual Car Shows at the conventions "seems" to be stagnating at around 200 cars. Some years more some years less... but over the past 16 years the attendance and entries have not grown consistently larger year after year. That indicates that too many people are not returning year after year, while being joined by ever more new attendees from the local area, or new owners coming into the hobby. By focusing on what is convenient, fun, easy, practical or desired for the people "hosting" the event - - you have lost track of the real "customers". The real customers are the individuals that put tens of thousands of dollars, plus untold hours into their cars, then at great personal effort and expense bring their pride and joy to the convention, and pay to enter a Judged Car Show. You are absolutely correct - given copies of their judging sheets the same day - would allow all the participates time to talk to one another, look at other examples that did not contain the flaws they were dinged with, and yes... so what... they would know ahead of the closing who won at least in the their class - - but they would still have to be at the closing to get the complete story, and receive the honors they are due. It would also give them time to talk to the Judges about how to correct the items they lost points for, or to protest and resolve differences of opinion while everyone is still gathered etc. etc. Here in Florida, for our Government at all levels, we have the "Florida Government In The Sunshine Laws". There is a reason for that and it should not be lost on the ZCCA .... The Judges and Event Organizers, going off in closed sessions, totally up the scores and announcing the results days later, at the very end of the convention, denies the participants any real recourse... Once off by themselves at home, they have no opportunity to talk to one another and compare cars and notes etc. IHMO all of that severely hurts the creditability and objectively of the entire process. If the judging sheets were mailed out a week later, a month later or six months later - it really wouldn't matter that much. The participants would still be home by then... with no one else to talk to, or work with, in their efforts to improve their vehicles for the next years event. Perhaps that is one reason many do not return the following year. I only speak for myself as a spectator .... but I would have liked to have seen the Scoring Sheets posted publicly while the cars were still available to for viewing. That way I could clearly see what area's to focus my attention on while restoring a Classic Datsun 240-Z of my own. Not to mention having the time to talk to the owners of the prize winning examples about how they did it.... No system is perfect and I don't mean to be too critical (although it may seem that way)... just some honest feedback from the peanut gallery. FWIW, Carl B.

BenJammin: You got a much better deal - - - a really "rust free" body alone is worth at least $2,500.00. $500.00 is a steal.. FWIW, Carl B.

If that is the actual case - they have a totally screwed up process and they need to fix it. Every car had a scoring sheet - and it should have been simply photocopied and handed to the participants when it was completed by the Judges. The participants should have had their copy at the same time the committee gathering and totalling the scores got their's. FWIW, Carl B.

What you have to watch is the length of the shaft, on the lug nuts for mags. Measure your old one's and replace them with the exact same length if possible. Sometimes it is no longer possible because the industry is now making only two or three standard lengths. In that case you have to get as close as possible, then use extra thick washers or two thin one's - if the lug shaft is too long. Just make sure the lug shaft with the washer installed - does not stick through the thickness of the wheel. FWIW, Carl B.

Not normal for the brackets to not be in line with each other.. so your first picture shows the problem, with the seat bottom on the right. Take that left hand bracket off and look under the vinyl... to see what is going on.. Carl B.

Hi Ron: The first few months of production for the US Spec. 72 240-Z, they were still using the webbing under the seats, and there was no seat belt warning light. There did not have the self retracting seat belts then either. Matter of fact, the first month or so, the body did not have the "pocket" in the floorboards for the self retracting mechanism. They all did have the fully reclining/flip forward seats however. So the change over to the seats with springs, the addition of the seat belt warning lights, the self retracting seat belts - came later. Along with the horizontal rear window defroster lines replacing the verticals in Jan. 72 So 62xxx might be a good number for the change in the seats, as they had to be changed for the seat belt warning system.... I just wondered if the TS was related to the seats or the switches, as you didn't publish the TS info. at first.... No progress on the seats yet - that is one of those situations that you wish you could get your hand on them and figure it out yourself... ;-) regards, Carl B.

That depends upon where you live, and what the Emission Testing your 82 might be subjected to. If you are sure that your Z won't have to pass an Emissions Inspection/Test... you might get away without it.... But make sure you know what the law requires in your State before you do anything. FWIW, Carl B.

Oil pressure in any engine is "relative" to that needed to flood the main bearing surfaces with lubricating oil, and also maintain the necessary clearances between the bearing surfaces and the connecting rods or crankshaft. Oil pressure in an L28 should be 12 to 15 psi per 1000 RPM up to 3000 RPM as I recall. The oil pump has a pressure relief valve that limits oil pressure from the pump to around 45 to 55 psi. So your oil pressure would be "low" if it were in the 25 to 35 psi range at 3000 RPM and it would be "high" if it was in the 55 to 65 psi range at 3000 RPM. It is not uncommon to see oil pressure readings drop to 5psi at idle. Changing to fresh oil and new filter will usually increase the oil pressure readings on your gauge by 10 psi.... old diluted and/or cruddy oil will thin out and lower your oil pressure... As previously mentioned - the sending units and gauges in our Z's are not the most accurate available. So if you have fresh oil and filter, with the proper oil level... and your gauge reads low.. I would first suspect and replace the sending unit , as well as checking the wiring connections. FWIW, Carl B.

No... your Right Hand Bracket, with the adjustment lever - is where it is supposed to be. (at least that is where it is on all my cars). The problem is with the Left Hand Bracket, it seems to be bolted in to the side of the seat back - too far forward, and the top of the bracket is at too steep an upright angle. I wonder if some previous owner, stripped the original captive nuts in the seat back - then just drilled new holes farther forward. Keep trying... good luck, Carl B.

Hi Dave / everyone: Great article and greatly appreciated I'm sure. Nonetheless, I have some questions in my mind... call it curiosity really. First: I do not remember the wipers being any problem at all when the 240-Z's were new. Yes they could have had a faster speed.... but they would run on a dry windshield no problem. On most of the Z's I've worked on - with 30+ years of age and wear - it's not the motor that is slowing down, it is the linkage pivot points that become corroded, the grease that drys out and hardens etc. In which case, you have to take the linkage apart, de-corrode the stub axles/hubs (so to speak), re-lubricate them. In some cases the corrosion has destroyed the metal, and they have to be replaced. I suppose the gear drive mechanism itself suffers from the same causes. By making the Honda Motor swap - - - are you simply using brute force to overcome the real problem of sticky/corroded pivot points in the linkage/wiper drive shafts? Second: Is the 91 Honda "Motor" really that much stronger/more powerful than the original Datsun Motor - - OR - - is the gearing on the drive mechanism the reason for the better performance on the Honda? (ie. gear reduction starters or more modern magnets in the motors themselves). Do you know how many amps each motor draws? Third: If the 91 Honda Motor Assembly uses the same output shaft - - - would it be possible to simply swap only the motor (wondering if the motor has the same input shaft???) .... That is to say take only the electric motor from the Honda and adapt it to the Datsun gear drive and wiring? Like I said - just curious.... FWIW, Carl B.

HI Jon: Received your input 10 Oct. 07, but we need your original engine serial number from the data tag under the hood. thanks, Carl B.

da.... that should be HLS30 62001... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ron: Is that a "seat bottom change notification" or is that a notice about the switches used? Nonetheless - The Seat Belt Warning buzzer was required for 1972 Production. So the seats with the wire springs went into 240-Z's beginning in Jan. 72. The VIN's started at HLS30 00001... 01/72. A few 12/71 production cars came with the springs in the seats - but no warning light on the fuse box cover... FWIW, Carl B.

There are two sets there... which one are you talking about? Carl B.

Hi Steve: I noticed it because I ran into the same problem. One of the brake lines from the master to the distribution block was totally plugged on the 73 BRE Z ... and I couldn't get it opened up... it was of course listed as NLA from Nissan... So a friend in Atlanta sent me a set he had already had re-Cad plated.... it looked like the set from CT and was of course the wrong one... So he sent me a second set and finally we found the one that would work (like your OEM line).... So it looks like they changed that line sometime before the 73's came out... I'd send the two lines back to CT, and ask them to duplicate your OEM line - and note that is the line for late 72's... That way they would have the model for both.. and customers could just send in a picture of their original lines so they would know which one's to resupply. good to hear your making progress at any rate... FWIW, Carl B.

From your pictures, I can't tell if you have a screw in the top hole of the left hand bracket or not. Nonetheless look at the difference in the mounting position of the two sides. the Right side is mounted correctly on the seat back - the left side is not. You need to rotate the top of the brack, on the Left side toward the rear of the seat, then screw it in place there. If there are no holes in the seat back - on the left side - that line up with the holes on the right side.. you have the wrong seat back.

Hi X-Ray: The tube coming down from the brake master cylinder to the distribution block... the one on the right in the last picture ...... looks completely wrong... What did you do about that? What year Z did CT think that line was for? Thanks, Carl B.