MikeW

Me too. Especially since I've met each of them in person (as well as the person who started this poll). It's funny how people don't always come across in person the way they do online. An awful lot is lost in the written word. There's no question that the people are the best part of the club.

I agree since anyone can post an offensive picture as an attachment to a post without approval. The most offensive thing I've ever seen on this site was actually some one's avatar which also requires no approval. What I'd really love to see on this site is a community ratings system similar to digg. When someone shows up and spams us with an ad for iPods or claims that they have the best low-mileage 240Z in existence and the rest of us are whiners then people here simply give the post a thumbs down. I then set my filter to ignore posts with negative ratings. I could even automatically ignore all posts from people who have a lot of negative ratings.

Here's some good information on the above: http://www.jtuned.com/content/templates/tune.aspx?articleid=288&zoneid=16

The car does have 240Z taillights which would be harder to change out than emblems. Clearly the RLS VIN makes it an early 260Z, but apparently someone in the past really wanted it to be a 240Z. I question having a starting bid equal to the buy it now price.

If you're like me you're often doing a "Datsun 240Z" or "Datsun 280Z", etc. search on eBay. I get kind of tired of the (watches, wall clocks, t-shirts, key chains, die-cast models, diamond cut headlights, etc.) and decided that instead of trying to filter out certain keywords that it would be best to just filter out certain sellers who put up the exact same stuff week after week. I really don't want any of that stuff. I've seen it already. Again and again and again. I thought it might be useful for us to collaborate on the best list of users to ignore. Unfortunately eBay limits you to 10 users. You simply go to the advanced search page and enter a comma-separated list of users to exclude. Here's what I just threw together based on what's currently on eBay: ur-gelis, wholesale_diecast_models, el_andyboy, redline_motorsport, racing_accessories, revospec, zoinkerswatches, toysmall I included ur-gelis because I've seen postings here from unhappy buyers. I believe I've seen other people here who refuse to buy from other certain prominent Datsun sellers but I can't remember the names. Who can help me out on that?

240's had only one speaker.

I'd say it's either a problem with the starter solenoid or a loose battery cable.

The center finisher goes on first and is just kind of held in place. You then attach the licence plate lamp assembly through the hole in the top of the center section which helps hold it in place. The left and right finishers go on next and also help hold the center since the center piece is now behind the left and right finishers. Those two snap into clips on the bottom edge and are held with plastic rivets on the top (the ones that you need to drill holes for). Finally, the bottom two screws holding the license plate to the car are the only thing that really attaches the center finisher firmly into place. I just took mine apart in order to describe this. I can take pictures if needed. Edit: the license plate lamp assembly actually needs to go on last since the left and right finishers go behind it as well. When I took it apart I was able to slide the left finisher out from behind the lamp assembly but now that I just put it back together I realized that my order was wrong.

Here's a picture I took of one at the Mitty a few months ago: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/3315/Mitty04-29_022.jpg

I believe I paid $70-$80 8 or 9 years ago. I know a lot of people seem to complain about MSA prices. Perhaps all of these people could do the rest of us a huge favor by going into business together and selling parts at steep discounts.

MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SFC04C

Welcome, Armando. Your English is fine although your caps lock key appears to be stuck. Can you post some pictures of the car you are interested in buying? The original engine was a 2.4 liter straight six. Many owners have swapped engines in these cars although this is the first time I've heard of someone downgrading the performance. Most engine swaps in a 240Z are to 2.8 liter engines from the 280Z/ZX models while others go for a V8.

I've successfully used this kit from Eastwood to remove fairly deep scratches from my windshield caused by the PO running the wipers without blades. I bought a cheap variable speed angle grinder at a local home improvement store and it worked well.

How deep are the grind marks? It's possible to polish some things out.

They have at least one and it looks nice to me: http://www.sfzcc.com/forum/garage.php?mode=view_gallery_item&type=garage_mod&image_id=154

I'm afraid you'll find that most Z car clubs these days are dominated by 300s and 350s; my club is the same way. That doesn't mean that people there don't appreciate our older cars. It's just a matter of how many cars are still on the road after 30+ years.

Welcome. This looks like it might help you out: http://www.sfzcc.com/

Another good point. In my case the two previously layers of adhesive probably prevented this.

Good point. One concern, however, would be to not stretch it too much. I'm wondering if the stretching I did previously while tucking in the perimeter contributed to it coming loose in the middle. After all it's a flat piece of vinyl being attached to a concave roof surface. A couple of other notes: I wore a respirator while spraying the glue as a lot of fumes can build up inside the car. Also, I just now finished the two rear corners and didn't have to remove the quarter window trim completely. Instead I just took out the coat hangers and screws and was able to bend the plastic enough to get the headliner in place.

I just re-installed mine for the third time so I'm getting to be an expert. It's actually not that difficult to do by yourself. The reason that I had to redo it twice is that I must not have used enough glue the first two times as it started sagging from the center. You'll need to remove the plastic trim that the dome light is in and probably the quarter window trim before getting started. Like Gary, I marked the center of the front and back. Positioning isn't absolutely critical as there's at least an inch overlap on all sides (I got my headliner from Too Intense - others may vary). Because of the way the headliner is tucked in around the entire perimeter it's not important to get the glue close to the edges. I first got the front center mark tucked in above the rear view mirror and then pushed the entire front edge in. After verifying that the rear center would line up with the middle of the dome light I opened the hatch and climbed in. At this point the entire front edge is held up and the rest is hanging down resting on the seat tops. I then used my can of spray-on headliner adhesive to thoroughly coat both the headliner and the roof. Because I was spraying it in between the two surfaces from the back it was easy to avoid getting glue on any other part of the car. This time I used a lot of adhesive and made sure that it got good and tacky before pressing it up into place. Based on my past experience getting the center thoroughly attached is the most critical part. Once the headliner is glued into place it's just a matter of going around the perimeter and getting it tucked into place. I used a thin wooden shim that I cut off and then sanded a rounded working edge on.

Actually that's even stranger since I wasn't thinking when I asked about the amp meter. I'd forgotten that the oil pressure gauge shares the same housing as the fuel gauge. Does your fuel gauge work? How about the temperature gauge? I suppose at this point you'll need to start with the basics. First, I'd check all of the fuses.

Does the amp meter still work? Since it's a common gauge I wonder if that's reason you're having a problem.

I would expect to see things like spares (fuel filter, fuses, distributor cap, rotor, belts, etc.) along with things to fix wiring problems (multimeter, spare wire, connectors). Don't forget some duct tape. I can't picture very many roadside situations where you'd actually need to use a lot of the heavier tools that you carry for junkyard visits. Perhaps in addition to a list of emergency tools we need a list of actual incidents where something went wrong and you were able to fix it on the side of the road. My only successes have been related to the fuel filter getting clogged and an electrical problem where the battery was not charging and I was trying to drive after dark. 20 years ago I had the U-joint nuts come loose at the front of the driveshaft and I could have fixed it on the side of the road but had no idea that was the problem so I got someone to tow me.

Hey, I wear shorts year round here in Atlanta as well - even to work every day.

Unfortunately I had to pay someone a lot of money to fix mine (as well as paint the car).