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I'm going to "throw out" something here. My 280's bearing makes a slight whining noise when I'm in neutral and foot off the pedal so I'm guessing the bearing is slightly touching the fingers of the pressure plate? If I shorten the adjustable rod under the dash wouldn't that take the bearing off the fingers and stop the whining?

No dead horses ever to me. I'll kick something until I starve to death, maybe a Southern thing, hard headed. As for your guessing abilities,

Revisiting an old thread found using the "Search" box, and thanks to Mike for the quality search, this guy says dissolving black plastic with MEK will make a useable paste for console repairs which got me thinking about something that's already made up. So I've been reading about black ABS plastic pipe glue. Has anyone ever used this to repair a cracked console? Mine is cracked where the choke assembly was mounted. Thanks.

All the 20 amps were replaced and are the right length, comparing them to the old ones. I'm glad I changed them out too, there was a 30 in the mix. I haven't changed the 10s yet but after reading what you've posted about the AGCs I'm sure they will be okay. Thank you.

Charles I'm " Jones'n " for some more land like you have. Those happy young'uns you have helping makes work look fun too. I'm jealous!

I was talking with Joseph at the Z Store not too long ago and he said something I've never thought about after seeing a picture I sent him. " Love the Z Garage. We can’t do the ladder-over-the-car thing here in CA for earthquake reasons, lol."

What threw me was that black plastic cage on back. I assume when they rebuild one they have to tear into the rear to replace parts and put that on there to keep the wires from falling out? I thought that was what made it an "internal regulator". Thanks for the all the help, I'm cranking it this morning when all my "good neighbors" go to church. Hoping that I can run it for 20 minutes this time.

What we have here is failure to rebuild. The new alternator is a piece of junk. Put the old one back on, turn the key and everything is fine. Hopefully they'll give me another one? Goodnight John BoyZ!

I found a pre tear down picture and it really is connected to the F post. Maybe @Zs-ondabrain can tell me why. You can see it's to the left of the horizontal part of the T connection.

But I didn't have a problem before putting the new alt. on. The old one that was grounded to F worked fine. I'm getting confused. Let me do some more researching tonight. Thank you Zed Head for helping. We'll figure it out one way or another. Pack of fuses is only three bucks.

The ground wire from the harness goes to the F on the old 240 one.

I was thinking this was external regulator, under my glove box.

Blue has a tech tip about using the zx on his 77 with the same connections. No plug from Dave. I have some reading to do tonight.

Yes it's a reman. I guess I could take both and have them tested? I'll compare part numbers tonight from rockauto and some other stores.

So if put the old one it's gonna blow the ignition fuse again?

I'm talking about the small ones that work for me. Pull the legs of a roach with these.

Here's the new one I took off and the old one I'm putting back on for now. Then I'm buying all Dave's stuff to modernize this old car.

Well I got lucky for a change! After reading about Dave Irwin's plug for the ZX alternator upgrade I found what I'd done. Dipstick of the day award for me. I put an alternator for my '77 280 on my 240, as Steve J said "that's bad mojo". 240s have external regulators, 280s have internal. DON'T DO THIS Ignition feedback burnt the fuse and killed my gauges. " The ZXP does all the required connecting in a clean, simple plug. The ZXP introduces a Jumper and a Diode that must be installed to prevent ignition feedback, which will power the ignition with the key in the off position." I unhooked the new alternator and replaced the IGN fuse and my gauges twitched when I turned the key, fuel gauge came up and the voltage gauge moved. Now I'm plugging all the coolant lines that go to the carbs. Fingers crossed and salt thrown over my back, looking for a rabbit too_ I'm gonna put him in a wheelchair. I may start it again in the morning and try to get through the 20 minute run in. So far I've only gotten to 5.

I can't find any 10 amp SFE fuses anywhere! The SFE is for automotive and only holds up to 32V. The AGCs are all purpose and go to 250V. I have the 20 amp SFE and was wondering if it would be okay to use the 10 amp all purpose fuses? Thanks for any help. Cliff

Fantastic! Harbydways are also. You guys set the bar waaaay up there! Oh yeah, Captain Obvious slipped in a picture of his not long ago. They should be stamped "DO THEM LIKE THIS". Rossiz I can't remember seeing your's, just hearing about the butt warmers.

I meant loosening the nuts that connects the hardline with the short hose going to the calipers. A 10mm flare nut wrench wouldn't work for me so I used a small pair of Vise-Grips to loosen the connection. Then needle nosed pliers to pull the concave metal piece that holds it in place.

I had to get all the weight off the tc rod to get the torque right by putting a jack under the tire and jacking it all the way up into the fender well. Then the rod was loose enough to get all the bits and pieces on and torqued down.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm

All mine are rounded. Small vice grips work good.

Dumpster diving was how I met my first wife.