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I think of that every time I type Blue, my favorite is when they tie the block to his "soft porn" body part for impregnating females with a longer rope and chunk it off the roof. FYI, he outed himself about a week ago. I believe he's trying to beat my high "reputation score" & doing a damn fine run up.

I'll leave it be, mine ran hot. Sorry to contradict what you've said Bruce.

Do you have a thermostat in your race car @Jeff G 78? I understand the eddy loop you speak of CO. I have a river thankfully running through here. The slews are stagnet but the main channel is clean.

From the link in post four. Counter intuitive is an attorney wearing a pony tail. No matter how good they are the judge still looks down on them.

I think I will try the 5s and now maybe I understand the reason they changed, thank you Blue. " However, with today’s cleaner-burning oxygenated unleaded gas, an equivalent engine needs to run plugs about 1-2 heat ranges hotter than originally specified (many plug manufacturers have revised their catalogs accordingly).

I've always put the BP6ES plugs in my cars. I did the ZX distributor swap on my 240, '79 ZX dizzy and coil and just widened the gap. Now I'm bored and go to NGK's website to see what's recommended for the '79 ZX. They say BPR5ES so I went to a couple of parts stores online and they say the same thing and have them on the shelves, the 6s have to be "shipped to home, non stocking item" Please advise!!! Seriously, anybody have any advice/experience for this?

I'll just pull the head gasket off and let it mix.

If you take the ones in the floorboards out you'll see the ground on a 240, I've not taken the ones out of my 280. You can pop them out from the underside and putting them back is easy, if they're not too dry and brittle.

The rubber goes in between the base mount and the AFM to lessen the vibrations. The ground goes under the base mount, if I remember right, it's been a few years.

I guess my temp gauge was reading hot because of the friction created by the coolant flowing over the temp sensor in the housing so fast?

Removing the thermostat's restriction is like running the a/c with the windows down. The thermostat slows the coolant down and allows it to cool the motor. If it was to pass through too fast it won't cool. I made that mistake on my first Z in 1986. FYI

And get rid of that shiny aluminum radiator.

This the first one I glued sometime this past summer. Off and on at least four times. Just don't over tighten the screws. I understand you have bigger problems I'm just bored. Here's some pictures of what ZH is talking about. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html

While you have the floats detached from the lids put a small amount of black RTV or whatever fuel resistant adhesive around the bottom of the lids and glue the cork gaskets to the lids. The thin layer dries fast so do one at a time. Without the floats you can get the lids on quicker. Put the screws in and slightly tighten them down leaving the lid on overnight. You won't have to worry with those gaskets for a long time. How many turns out are the nozzles? If you have the floats close then 2.5 counter clockwise should be good while you figure out the timing. If your float tangs were that high I'd bet you had to run the nozzles way down, like 4 or 5 turns? That would blacken those plugs now that the float level is close. Hit them with a wire brush or wheel and see if they're still good. good luck

I tried that first and realized that after someone mentioned AN fittings to Jalex Jeff bowed out, frustrated I'm sure. Here's as close as we got,

Here's the only guy I've read that has done it, no pictures though. Maybe he'll see this and put one up, do you have one @Jeff G 78?

Another thing that affects idle is the TPS. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

That could be the BCDD, either out of adjustment or bad. Could be the dashpot? Or the fuel tank is clogged up. Have you put a Fram G3 clear filter coming out of the tank? BCDD instructions. Mine went to a high RPM when I came to a stop but yours maybe the opposite? Anti-stall dashpot shoots a rod out and catches a throttle linkage flat to keep them from doing what yours is doing when you let off the pedal. You'll have to look at it and see for yourself how it works (or doesn't). Google "280z dashpot" for more info, I can't find anything other than they only come on manual transmission cars. Fram filter instructions, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

That's cool! Uses a little more electrical tape than what I'm used to.

Having been fooling with mine these past few days, your float tangs are bent way too high. Just like mine were and there was very little gas in the float chambers. I bet you set yours the way I did, upside down resting on the pin. They were a pain getting them bent back to a normal "ramp" like they should be. I thought about buying new ones too but didn't, maybe you should? I don't have a lot to do in this life so spending hours to save a few dollars is no big deal. If you get them close to this picture they'll just be a millimeter or two off. After bending them like new ones look, here's where I was. Hard to see but it's about 2mm high in this picture.

Whatever you decide to do with your AFM make sure and connect the ground wire on the bottom to one of the mounting bolts. I've read where a lot of those wires aren't connected and it now they are . Here's an explanation the flaps get deformed, one way, backfiring through the intake is the main reason though. From atlanticzcars, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/sizeupgrade/index.html My '77 had a big hole where the EGR tube connected to the intake. It popped like crazy when I first drove the car if I gave it too much fuel.

My '72 will be 45 & my '77 40 years old next year, wu who. Better go on and celebrate tonight. HAPPY NEW YEARS everyone! Looks like Clemson will be national champions.

Dashpot is open to atmosphere. No hose. Green and black wires on top of intake are the coolant temp sensor and the thermotine sensor in the thermostat housing. They should be cleaned and lubed with dielectric grease. They're bullet connections and tough. Use two pairs of pliers and pull them apart. Don't grab the wire though just below where it crimps into bullet connections. The snap on clips like the injectors have a flat C looking clip that holds them in place. Use a small screwdriver on one of the sides and pop one side out. Do the other side too. Pull the top with needle nosed pliers until the plastic houseing comes loose. Be careful not to loose the clips. Look on ebay for "280z fuel injection connector kit" and you'll understand better. Those green wires with the bullet connections really need cleaning, important. Pull the brass sensors from the thermostat housing and shine those up too. You need this. Both less than $10 and would do 4 cars. CRC electronic spray cleaner and any dielectric grease.

I'm sorry, I understand what you're saying now. When I get mine set I can do it with water and get the measurements using water. As far as that goes, once I get mine set I'll do anything I can to help others in the future. You may get a phone call for helpful ways of doing this correctly. Measuring closure point (Fuel level in middle axis of plate-bowl) at different degrees of tilt will solve the "mystery" and give a nice curve as you do 0 degrees (23mm), 5 degrees (?mm), and 10 degrees (mm) as well as -5 degrees (?mm), and -10 degrees (mm) .

I noticed something while doing the first set-up and will be able to tell more tomorrow. The way these floats are made I could swear they make the level a touch higher towards the back, compensating for the motor tilt. Can you see it in this photo? Looks pretty level looking at it now. For once in my life I may be wrong!