Stanley

Found the bulb covers same place that has the vac gauge, thanks. Was going to just use part of a green plastic bag if necessary but these are cheap.

Better start reading up on triple sidedraft Weber's for Z's, cause that's what you're unwrapping at 1:24. Nice and clean. No experience with them myself but plenty of information on this site and elsewhere. Didn't see the SU's - you're running a pair of downdraft carbs but they have a bad rep. You could try them, just to get it started (after draining the fuel tank and replacing all the filters and hoses, changing the oil, etc.) but then I'd put the triples. Maybe get the car sandblasted at a local bodyshop so you can see the good and repair the bad. Ospho on the rust if it's not too horrible. Hoods are available. I'd work on making it a "fast badass" and forget that other stuff. Those retro rims might look cool if they were shined up.

I don't see many black Z's, maybe because it's unforgiving. I look at the new black cars, even high-end ones like Lexus, Jaguar, BMW, and see a kind of mottled finish. Did see one amazing black Datsun roadster at the JCCS last year. The only place I see a lot of black Z's is in the Japanese magazines. Maybe it's a popular color there because of the Wangan Midnight series. Here's what I consider a nice black paint job: does this mirror make me look fat? P.S. this was supposed to be a reply with quote from Fred Sigarto's post.

How would they look chromed. Or dark bronze powdercoat?

What were those rims?

If you were doing a stock resto for car shows or value, or if it was a Z432 or a black gold 280ZX, it would be dumb to use a non-stock color. Otherwise it's your car so do what you like.

Wow, had no idea. Remember renting a lift space for an hour, years ago in Arizona, to do something or other, don't even remember which car or truck it was - don't think they even had tools. My truck needs a front end rebuild I can't afford and they only let me do minor maintenance here - wonder if I could finish in a 12 hour day ?

A bad PCV valve could cause vac leak but it's restricted so I don't think it would cause such extreme symptoms. If the leak was on the exterior of the engine (like the big hole in a vacuum hose on my Chevy truck) you would hear it hissing.

Back to Jarvo2's original topic, $15 sounds OK. It's easy enough to make a sightglass but that would same the time of scrounging up the parts. IMO observing the level in the nozzles is still the most accurate method, but unless you can get it set right in one or two tries it's way too much work. For 3-screws though, I'd rather have it hooked up at the drain. Then you can fill the bowl just starting the engine (if you do one bowl at a time). Also you can leave it hooked up a run the car with it, like Grant does with his track car in the ZTherapy video. I bought the ZT sightglass, but would rather have something else to leave installed full time. Seems like it would be real handy to have one permanently installed - you could check it any time you have the engine running with the hood up. Might be able to see low level from a sticky float valve, low FP or whatever, also see a too high condition before it starts leaking. One more diagnostic tool. Somebody should snap up that eBay one, if it's the real deal - too bad it's not a pair. Please post photos if anyone installs any of the sights from those links.

Yesterday stopped at Marukai for some bento and to see if the new NH was out yet. Saw a black 72 Z parked there, young guy named Adam eating take-out sushi, we talked about Z's a while. He got it two months ago. It Looks nice and totally stock. I mentioned this site as a good Z-school.

Some good points. I looked at the acceleration slosh thing, seemed to me the effects Blue describes happen regardless of long/short ears. BTW I copied the result wrong - a=1.1 mm and 2a=2.2 mm. Not that you can adjust the floats to tenths of a mm unless you're Supermechanic. Is it true that 4-screws have equal length ears on the float lids? The 72 FSM didn't mention a change. One more thing, is that 23mm carved in stone? If I was racing up Pikes Peak I might want to raise that rear float a little, same thing for long WOT runs with a 3.1 stroker with SU's for example. Haven't seen any information about modding float settings, maybe anybody doing it would keep it a secret depending on class rules. It's hard to get the level much higher without gas running out the vent, though.

On the front carb the bowl is in front of the nozzle, so the tilt of the engine makes the fuel level higher in the nozzle. On the rear carb, the bowl is in back of the nozzle so the tilt makes the fuel lower in the nozzle - if it weren't compensated for.

Nissan made the ears on the front lid and the front needle valve 2 mm longer than the rear one, at least on my 3-screws. IIRC, the Ztherapy video has something about that, and says you can use extra washers if you don't have the longer valve. Used a digital angle meter to get slope of the driveway, the flat part under the door, and the motor, measured between the float bowl outlets and the nozzles. Did the trig - it rounds off to 2 mm difference required to get the same fuel level in each nozzle. BTW, if you're setting the floats on a driveway that slopes very much, it would throw it way off - got that from these forums, and it figures. If your car is raked that would throw it off too. Wonder what happens if you're driving a Z at Pikes Peak?

Don't forget the front bowl level needs to be 2 mm lower than the rear to compensate for the engine tilt (so the fuel level in the nozzles is the same). Checked mine last December with the micrometer and got the same 3 mm from the ceiling to bottom of the lid. Set the rear 23 - 3 = 20 mm from bottom of lid, front 25 - 3 = 22 mm down. My front bowl was 9 mm too low before I fixed it with the sight glass.

I'll be looking forward to a thread about the new engine. My mechanic has F1 experience and likes fast-reving engines, he suggested something like this. Of course it will have to wait til I have a big project to work on, no money now. It's a little over my head but I won't be doing any real work - no place to do it. Also I'm running a Y70 on my 240 - so Oz's build thread was also a big help. I'll start a thread asking about cams etc (got stock C211 cam, nice flat torque line but quits about 5000 rpm, dunno what others are using) for the Y70 after I think about it some more.

Here's mine, from ztherapy: It works ok but I'm thinking maybe install a permanent one, maybe one of these:McMaster-Carr Happy reading ! Also, I got some new float bowl gaskets and stuck them to the bowl with the blue stuff on the bowl side. They're doing fine and I had to remove the reinstall the lids on both carbs about 10 times to get them more or less right. It would help to have an adjuster screw or something on the tang on the float to make it easier to adjust, but at least once they're set they should stay that way, unless the needle valves get bad or the fuel pressure changes.

Nice. You might want to check out the June issue of Option magazine. A 10 page spread on options and mods for the BRZ. Lots of pictures. Apparently they love them in Japan. Available online or at any Japanese magazine rack. Learning to read katakana just for the car mags - hope to be up to one word per minute soon.

I remember that. It was next door to a drive-in where they'd bring Mexican food and a pitcher of beer to a tray on your car window. It's called the 70's.

MSA used to sell a "240Z European distributor" for $200. Quote from their catalog: "As supplied by Datsun on 240Z's sold in Europe. Quicker advance curve." I got one - it gave better performance and solved my cold start problem, but that was compared to the '73 dual-point distributor. Also it wasn't worn out. Don't think MSA has them anymore but I see new ones all the time advertised in Japanese magazines like Nostalgic Hero, one of the sites that import JDM stuff could probably get you one.

A few years back had to have the 240Z towed, it broke the ignition switch. Searched the forums here and found the switch can't be in the lock position, use acc. They say pull a fuse for long tow - don't remember which one. After some calls and faxing them copy of a page from the manual, they finally paid half the cost of the switch. Guess it depends on how it's towed.

No compressor, no drier, I'm beginning to see why the AC didn't work.

Got this one. Some cracked plastic as you can see, though.

Maybe they say not to over-tighten it because they can be hard to get off. And the crappier ones have really thin metal so if you use an oil filter wrench it will twist up like a churro and spill oil all over the place.

17.1 sec in the quarter mile? Sometimes it's the driver not the car. Read Car and Driver's review from back in day, they ran the 1/4 in about 15.65 if I remember. About 1.5 sec faster, so they would have beat the 17.1 sec car by at least 10 lengths. They did say they revved it up to 6000 rpm before releasing the clutch.