Patcon

Evidently the car seems to like the large venturi size. Maybe because it breathes better with the extra valve area, it doesn't suffer with the over carburation the standard L6 heads seem to have. At first I was gonna respond to the "throttle body" portion of your question. It is my understanding throttle bodies don't have as big of an issue with bore size because the fuel is at a higher pressure and atomizes even at lower rpms. Also was it really necessary to chop a huge hole in the hood? I hope that's a fiberglass hood they cut up. "No officer, I don't know why you stopped me..." ...but officer, I couldn't have been speeding! My speedometer never left zero."

Cool. Take the crank, intake and anything else you want and scrap the rest. That should help pay for the crank. Unless you actually want a diesel maxima?

I right click on the dot at the beginning of the thread title and open in a new tab. That takes me to the first unread response in a thread. I open 8 threads or so at once and start reading while the later ones load.

The clutch was probably slipping. Next time go to 1st gear before you start up the driveway. Even if the clutch slips some in second on that particular driveway you can probably get some more mileage out of it. Just don't make it work that hard.

I just looked through 993 ads on ebay for flexplates. I found these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Flexplate-PIONEER-FRA-459-fits-79-83-Nissan-280ZX-2-8L-L6-/361295205463?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item541edf5457:g:1YMAAOSwgQ9Vk60k&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Pickup-Flex-Plate-1973-/331654020826?hash=item4d381ebeda:g:eOsAAOSw9r1V9bNt&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Flexplate-PIONEER-FRA-459-fits-79-83-Nissan-280ZX-2-8L-L6-/371405351307?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item56797be98b:g:H8wAAOSwjVVVwhL4&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Flexplate-PIONEER-FRA-459-fits-79-83-Nissan-280ZX-2-8L-L6-/271943658488?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item3f511aebf8:g:YTIAAOSwPcVVuWGd&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Trans-Flexplate-PIONEER-FRA-459-fits-79-83-Nissan-280ZX-2-8L-L6-/371407663908?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item56799f3324:g:puMAAOSwDNdVxdpF&vxp=mtr Will any of them work? Also I found this very nice separating plate. I believe it will work but not positive... http://www.ebay.com/itm/79-83-DATSUN-280ZX-ENGINE-TO-AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-PLATE-FLEXPLATE-COVER-/221686274426?hash=item339d88197a:g:9H4AAOSwxYxUzqnJ&vxp=mtr

Very good. I was going to say if they aren't anodized and sealed with something they will corrode...

Site, I believe he needs a flexplate that takes the place of the flywheel on an automatic car...I am not sure he needs the transmission to engine separating plate

Careless Looks perfect! Like a museum piece. Fabulous work

moelk I don't care for the blue either. How did you remove the anodization? Did you coat the clear aluminum with something?

Is the cold starting issue because the cold start valve is disconnected?

Very nice repair. Well done and easy

That would be an interesting thread to see

SweatyBetty That's not a bad rate for blasting and it is so nice to work on the car once you know what you have. The area under the battery could be worse. I had to repair that area on one car but had to make the compound corners. It looks like most of your repairs can be made from flat stock. "After Blast" from Eastwood will prevent flash rust so you can wait to paint until after you are done making repairs

I have had valves get stuck in the fuel pumps if they sit for a long time. Open it up and make the valves are loose and the passages aren't plugged with gunk.

I totally understand. These things drag out forever for me between work, cars and life, the simple jobs take ten times longer than they should.

I agree with most of what is in that thread but I would go to a good paint shop and get some good body panel 2 part epoxy. I would also use fiberglass to do the initial blending. Rough the body up good with 36 grit paper use fiber glass under the flair and hold them in place with zip screws. The fiberglass will bond if it has enough tooth. Use some light weight woven fiberglass mat over the seam. Then use body filler to properly fair in the flairs. The fiberglass can be used from underneath too if needed to waterproof the joint. Body filler is not water reisistant

Well I didn't think Grannyknot aught to be the only one trying to shoe horn unusual hardware into an S30. What about trying to shoe horn a 4 wheel drive RB26 in. Do you think the front could be converted to all wheel drive? What got me thinking this craziness was seeing an engine for sale on Ebay. It has a transfer case with holes for output shafts to the front wheels. I guess you would have to find a vehicle to source front hubs from

Can't find pricing on the kit. Japanese Nostalgic Car has an article about the kit but no pricing there either. Curious what that would set you back. I may have a candidate here at the house for that kind of treatment

But did you see the engine in the Grey Dodge ????? 9 litres and 1650 HP

I am not a big fan of applied fender flairs but if I was going to do it, I like this car better than anything else I've seen.

Automatic and it's already at $8,200 and there are no pictures of the problem rust areas and it's in Pennsylvania????

I have several different copy pipes beaten into different shapes. Most are 3/4" with a short piece of wood in the uncrushed end. The wood keeps from having to hold onto the 500dF copper pipe after it warms up. Eastwood sells some premade but they are very easy to DIY

I agree with Grannyknot, blast first then patch what you find. I have a good blaster here in Spartanburg. I can get you his number if you're interested.

When your car died did you check the fuel pressure?

If you need patch panels. I may have some. I am not that far away from you.