Gary in NJ

Just a suggestion but when and if you do re-shoot that section, I would post a clip here on this website. Many of us on this site have purchased the DVD and it would be helpful to have the correct footage.

You have to get it on the tip of the cam, otherwise you're just guessing. I've had good success over the years just reaching in through the open window and just giving the key a ever-so-light twist. I do have a bump starter, but I've never really needed it for the Z. You can get it close with the key, and then use a socket to turn it that extra little bit. Make sure the key is in the off position and the coil wire is removed.

Screw driver and a feeler gauge. If you find you're always tight, use the next size larger feeler. If you're always loose, use a smaller one. You must tighten against the feeler otherwise you will get movement.

Yes, they found wiggle words to call it a Buick... "The Datsun was not a stellar performer in the traditional sense (speed, cornering), but won everyone over with its amenities, layout, looks and comfort. “Luxury, opulence even,” one tester wrote. “Quiet and comfy,” said another."

Mine was leaking badly when I got it. Turns out the timing cover was loose. With each bolt tightened to 8 lb/ft I haven't seen a drop of oil in my CLEAN garage. For what its worth, my '71 was tight as a drum as well.

Wow, and only 14,000 original miles. Must be true, says so right on the odometer.

Great write-up. How long until we get a run/ride report?

Low fuel pressure? Have you tried holding a steady rpm (like 3000 rpm) for a minute with the car in neutral and then dropping down to idle? If so does the engine just shut down or does the engine attempt to idle and then shut down? Any popping or surge?

Looks like you have cam lobe corrosion and spalling (pitting). If this is the case, it can't be fixed, only replaced.

Do you honestly believe that? That odo has been around the block at least once, maybe twice. In any event, good luck with the car and welcome to the club.

Make sure that the #1 wire is lined-up with the vertical index mark on the side of the cap. It's CCW from there.

You need to set a budget. 20% is a significant increase, requiring head work (cam, valves & porting), a high flowing exhaust (2-1/2" piping) and some boring of the cylinders. Unfortunately there aren't many (any?) bolt-ons that will release magic horsepower. With the L-series engines it all comes down to cubic dollars.

Chuck, that is just outstanding.

Yes, but use a tube bender.

I remember reading this article as a 16 year old and thinking "they've ruined my dream car". Not to many years later my college roommate and I both owned 240Z's. My roommate thought that the newer ZX just had to be a better car and sold his beloved 240 for a '79 ZX. Within a week he knew he made a mistake. It was a great "date-car" but not a drivers car. Back then we did more driving then dating. I hated the car. My reaction today is the same as it was 33 years ago, they ruined a great car. But they sure did outsell the original. The vast majority of people like cars that look like they deliver performance, and don't really care if the car delivers the goods. BTW Wade, I too owned a '86 MR2 and agree that it was one of the most fun cars I've ever owned, only tied with a 240Z. When I come across one in the right condition at the right price, I will own one again.

Carl Beck's website will provide you with the regional differences and when features appeared or disappeared. http://www.zhome.com/

You stole my post

Water is a non-compressible fluid. You run the risk of hydro-lock if too much water is used. The end result would be bent con-rods.

Stock S30's were never meant for (or good at) stop-light heroics. It's a sports car; balance and feedback. If you're looking for a dragster, I might suggest an F-body or Mustang. To make your S30 a good dragster, it will no longer possess the desirable qualities it was designed to have.

What's the budget? There is a simple formula to remember: Hp=$

Great looking car Frank. Be a bit more paranoid while driving this one

It's heart breaking to see those marks on such new pistons. You're not the first to have to rebuild a fresh engine (I know a few) and you wont be the last. It's a club no one want to belong to.

What time did the police show-up to arrest the man that committed this crime?

[key music] forever young, I want to be forever young...

Duckman, The best of both worlds are the early production 260Z's. They have the small bumpers, the stiffer chassis and carbs. Of course the flat-top carbs used on the '73 240 & '74 260 are horrid, but it's easier to install round-tops on a 260 then modifying a 280 (but it's an easy modification). If I ever come across a 260 with a rust-free body, at the right price, I'm buying one for a resto-mod car.