Mike

Ninja, That's a nice looking ride. Is it yours?

Oh man... That was low.

Somebody want to give this guy a bad rating? From the sounds of his ad, he is full of bull****. If it was a Nissan restoration, it wouldn't come with a "boatload of extra parts"... Buyer beware of this creep. [m]

What's the link?

Man, now that is a rocket!! A $45,000 investment... The sale is now at around $15-$16k and his reserve was met. A $30,000 loss is a hell of a bite in the arse. Oh wow, it says "fuel cell"... I wonder what is powered by the fuel cell. Oh wait, that might be description for the fuel tank. (I got that confused with the new fuel cell power technology).

I'm trying to trace the reason why I am not getting fuel pumping in my '75 280z. I took a VOM and measured the voltage at the fuel pump leads and discovered that it's not getting power when the key is turned on. Does anyone have experience troubleshooting this kind of problem? -- Mike

Racer, Can you put a few picts up here? I'd like to know what a Skyline engine looks like. How much is something like this?

Here are cudos to everyone who has helped me with this car!! :D :cool: ;) :D Thank you sooo much. Now, let's see how long it takes me to get it started and running!

Yes, thank you!!! As far as 'next to nothing'... Yes, I mean the trailer rental and all the money I've dumped into it today. I'll probably have about $1,000 to $1,500 into the car to get it on the road. Free can mean many things. In this case, I hope free doesn't cost me over $2,000 for a daily driver. Even at that price, it's not a bad deal.

Actually, I was thinking about that. It might actually encourage me to get back into the 240z project! We spent all day today working on the 280z and it's bringing back memories of the 240z. Maybe I'm getting that itch back. Time to get out of the office and back into the garage. My hands definitely don't have the strength that they used to. I could barely twist off the hoses to the fuel filter!! Anyway, we are hoping the 280z will be a good daily driver (when I get it started). [m]

The wheels are mismatched. It looks like the front wheels are off a ZX while the rears are original with hubcaps. The left rear is missing the hubcap. So, it looks like I'm going to need new wheels/tires after I get this thing running. :eek:

Next to nothing.....

I wasn't sure how you were going to configure the car. If you were going to add a ZX engine with all of the ZX features (possibly a turbo), then you might want to look into that. It's because of the additional power and torque. You will be fine if you buy an L28 (280z) long-block and keep all of your other 240z components.

$2,500 is too expensive if it's not in 100% working order. From the problems you describe, it could cost you up to $500 to fix it. Where's the hole in the floor pan? All Z pans have a drain hole which is usually plugged with a rubber stopper. If it's rust - beware. That could be signs of other rust hiding out in the car. Offer him $1,500 and see what he does. [m] PS: You'll definitely need a Zcar Microfiche CD. (yes, that was a plug for our CD!!!)

Okay, I just looked up prices at Motorsport. They have the following options for rebuilt engines: '70 to '83 engines = $1,795 '84 to '89 engines = $2,750 You'll receive it in a crate to your house. I think they also charge for shipping. Not sure what that is.... It also says these prices are on an exchange basis only.

That price seems kind of high to me. I don't know about ZX engines, but, regular Z engines are around $1,500 to $2,500 depending on the options. In fact, after I think about it more... A ZX engine in a 240z would require a lot of modification. The ZX engine is fuel injected and will require a stronger drive-train (differential). Take a look at some of the engine solutions from Motorsport Auto. They can get rebuilt engines that are a lot less expensive. Anyway, that price just seemed too damn high for me. But, if it includes installation and all of the modifications to your 240z, it's probably right on. A popular modification for the 240z is to use a 280z block. It's got more horsepower and almost identical to the 240z block. The head is very similar, but, you'll have to check to see if you have round or square exhaust ports. Point is... check around... I think that price was high.

Can you explain the fix? I don't see it. You replaced the ignition switch and it fixed your dieseling? Or, was your car continuing to run at full idle speed after you turned off the key?

If someone adjusted your carbs, they might have done a few things to 'cheat' in order to get it running smoothly. My previous message indicated that some people modify the idle screw in order to get it to idle smoothly. A good idle (for a car with halfway decent SU's) is about 800 rpm. If you're idling over 1,000 or so... you might get that effect. I used to be good enough at adjusting my SU's so that the idle screw wasn't even touching the carb. They would idle perfectly at 800rpm w/out any help of the idle screw. A good way to check this is to loosen your idle screw completely (when the engine is running).

Does your car 'diesel' or continue to run very poorly? You did mention that it sputters and chokes, but, I wasn't really sure. Anyway, if it continues to chug and lurch like it wants to continue to run.... you might have a problem with the idle (or even the carb adjustments). Sometimes people tend to adjust the idle screw because their car doesn't idle smoothly. So, what do they do? They just increase the idle speed. This isn't good because it can cause the 'dielseling' symptom. I would start with a good timing adjustment, a good carb adjustment, and also check to make sure there is enough OIL in the carb pistons. You might also want to change the spark plugs and check the engine compression while you're in there. [m]

Putting her on the trailer...

Rear Shot of the car

Rear Hatch

Interior - NOT ONE CRACK ON THE DASH!!

Engine

Pict