Zed Head

Did you just peel back the rubber from the glass and pump material in until it came out at some exit point? Or did you pump it in at various spots? I think that I would have opened up an exit on the other side and filled that groove until it came out.

2016 - 20 = 1996. They stopped using external regulators in 1978. He may not be familiar with how they work. The "Signal" wire would be going to the regulator, not the alternator. Sounds like he's trying to rationalize how they work, but that will be difficult. Just saying, he might be trying but these old cars can be tricky. Check the Download section of the forum for Service Manuals and diagrams. Anyway, I think that Oreilly gave you the wrong alternator and when you get the right one you'll probably be fine.

And I'm pretty sure the externally regulated alternators all have a plastic assembly on the back. Like this. Yours doesn't. Just looks like the wrong unit.

Check for F and N molded in to the back of the alternator by the T plug (the right circle in my picture). Oreillys has been known to give the wrong parts. If they gave you the wrong alternator it will have S and L molded in to the back. You can also see BAT molded in where the charging wire goes (the left circle). I think the external regulator systems might not get power to N until the key is on. Your mechanic should know these things. Is he a professional or just somebody you know?

What year is your car? I think that you might have an internally regulated alternator. That's what your picture looks like. Your mechanic probably thought it was a direct swap, and probably meant Sense, not Signal. If he did install an internally regulated alternator (1978 - 1983 Z and ZX) then he has to do some wiring or buy the adapter below. It's not a bolt-on swap. I'd buy the adapter, it's a plug-in and contains the diode to keep the engine from running when the key is turned off. Here a link- http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4067

Have you tried just shorting all of the relevant relays? Just to see if the problem is that they're not being actuated. If it still doesn't work it's probably an ECU issue.

What do you mean by Signal wire? The external regulator alternators use an F and an N wire. And you don't have anything connected to the BAT post, except the condenser.

Didn't mean to muddy up your effort. You said "either the car and all the parts or any of the parts" in #2 though, implying that you were ready to split things up. The 4.11 ratio R200 Quaife would probably sell right away if you had a price on it, for example. P79 head, probably go quick. Seats, easy sell. Stuff like that. GLWS.

Way TMI! I am in a legal weed state though (state being Oregon, not state of mind), and AdSense probably knows where my ISP server is. It would be somewhat ironic if marijuana use caused sleep apnea, leading to people buying CPAP masks but converting them for alternative uses. Vicious cycle.

I don't think that the fluid is causing the yellowing. The reservoir material is probably nylon, which tends to yellow over time. So if that's the main reason, it won't really help. On the paint protection issue, maybe so, but silicones can cause other problems, like screwing up the application of paint. Fisheyes and adhesion problems. And if your car has been repainted with a two component system, like a typical urethane, you may not need that protection. The paint is crosslinked. But, apparently, different chemistries can be used to achieve the DOT5 spec. The spec. is a physical property spec. not a chemistry spec. Kind of like GL-4 and GL-5 in gear oils. So DOT 5 may not be what you think it is. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid http://ebcbrakes.com/product/brake-fluids/ So, if you want the paint protection, just make sure that the fluid is silicone based. Read the fine print. Random thoughts. I used to work at a paint company.

Seems a bit slow, so...anybody know what the Popular Contributors column signifies? What is being contributed and how is it being quantified? Seriously, I don't know what it means or what to do with it. Nothing to click on. Give me a clickable thing!!! p.s. why would an ad for sleep mask problems be on the page? Anybody else get sleep mask ads?

That list is very large. Not clear really, if you're trying to sell the car and all of the parts as a package, or the car separate from a package of parts, or if each part is for sale. Seriously, it's a list of parts, for sale. And no prices listed. That almost always means "too much wanted". And you have to post a picture if you want to sell a car. Just gotta.

Looks nice. What's a "fuel boost"? Stick shift or automatic?

I can't remember if it was Dave WM or KDMatt or someone else that had a thread on it (there was a flurry of transmission work a while back), but somebody just went through this seal replacement. You don't have to disassemble the gears, but you do need to remove the rear housing (case) so that you can remove the striking lever. It's hard to get fingers and tools in there but it is doable. Check the FSM MT chapter. Here's a picture from 1978, you didn't say if you had an early (77-79) or late 5 speed. But I think that they're all essentially the same. You can see the o-ring, #3.

What's a 90 Cherokee worth? That's a nice looking car. Probably rust-free if the history is correct. There's a guy that had his 1978 Z for sale forever for about $8000. Nobody would buy it. Use one of those Craigslist conglomerators to see what Z's are selling of nationwide. I think that there are a ton of people out there who never get their asking price though. http://www.searchtempest.com/

Don't forget tires. Low profile tires can give a harsh ride. There's a lot to be learned from how Nissan set up the stock suspension. A small amount of spring preload so the springs and shocks don't come in to play until the tires do some work. Tall tires to absorb the small bumps. Lots of ways to get things slightly off. Low profile tires, no preload, too much preload, stiff shocks, soft shocks, setting the shock height incorrectly so they bottom out (with coilovers). You could spend some time just trying to put a good puzzle together.

It did and it's quick.

Just wanted to see if this will add a new Topic and post on the front page.

How is chatting different from posting in a thread? Chat Room content disappears, thread content is forever. There doesn't seem to be any advantage to Chat. What am I missing?

Retarded timing burns cleaner, apparently. That's the basis. One thing to consider though is that Nissan might have designed the advance curve to fit the expected initial timing. Your initial timing setting will be added to total advance. I have a distributor with "11" advance mechanism, 22 degrees, so if I set mine to 17 I'll end up at 39 total. Probably not the best. You need to know your distributor. That's why some people set their timing to max advance desired, using a dial-back light or some other calculation. You can make it run better at low and mid-range RPM but end up with lower power or detonation on the high end.

Your title says original, but you're asking about if it's been removed. You know that the early cars had the engine serial number stamped on the car's ID plate, right? If they match, it's original. Then you can say "numbers matching" engine.

The fancy chrome hood lock pins probably looked like that when they started but now people put them on for show. I think that you could get it done under the door. Not visible. Just an option. A ready-made cap with a key would be nice, but apparently they're not available.

There are other ways to make the stock cap a locking cap. A bar or a pin in the right place, maybe brazed on, or mounted with those screws with one-way heads.

I read through that other link and looked at the pictures and descriptions here and I get the impression that there are a variety of bends out there. Some hit the diff, some hang too low, some are too high. The specs must be wide.

You mean it won't fit side-to-side, or up and down, or the muffler doesn't fit if you get the pipe in the groove? Picture!