Zed Head

This source says that GM used that code on 327's and 350's. So that fits. 3970010 http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html Where's texasz? He was going to have his site back up in a little while. @texasz

You can probably get that price or higher from somebody who comes out and inspects it in person. The key, I think, is to make it easy to do. Tell people where the car is located (Northern Idaho is a whole different world from Southern, Eastern or Western), all the details of how it runs, when it's available for viewing, are the tags/tabs current so it can be driven, will it do a long drive with no problems, etc. Could be a fun road trip and a ride home in a "new" Z. You gotta give that critical information though. Looks like Idaho carries over previous brands (obviously, from the picture) - http://itd.idaho.gov/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/SalvageFactSheet.pdf

To be clear, all I'm really asking for is documents that describe what's what. All that's clear now is that the first V8 Z cars were commercialized by a company called Scarab. If all y'all Scarab guys don't save the documentation you'll be left with an oral history.

Where? Can I come over and peruse your literature? Kidding, I don't want to come over. But if you want to copy and post it that would be fantastic. Why would somebody remove all of those parts and replace them with stock Chevrolet parts? The only "proof" you have that you have a 370 HP Scarab motor is roller rockers under the valve covers? After 40 years? Are the parts you sourced "Scarab" parts or replica parts? Seriously, it looks like you have Scarab stickers on the body with replica parts on the engine. You dissed the guy that wouldn't open his hood but you have some of the same problems. An unknown engine in a 280Z body with Scarab placards. Just trying to figure out how to tell a "real" Scarab from a replica Scarab. If there was some documentation that said "this is how car number XXXX was made" and replica parts were used to restore that would be one thing. But with no documents, just the metal placards on the body that say "Scarab", really, what is it? Scarab's fault really, if they didn't document their work. It's interesting, I just don't know what's real and what's hype.

Thanks, that sounds like quite a ride. But I think that you're missing my point. I was trying to help you, I wasn't looking for help. In the world of buying old things, provenance is a critical part of value. My point early on in the thread was that there's no easily available record of what a Scarab actually is. Without the "official" records, it's just a few guys telling the world how valuable their car is. Where did you get the "370 HP" information? As I said way above, I'd love to learn more about these cars but, to be frank, if you Scarab owners don't lock the information down, and make it available, pretty soon you'll be four guys talking to each other. And your picture above shows a plain old chevy small block 4 barrel manifold, not an Edelbrock Torquer, on the "before" picture. What happened to the original 370 HP Scarab engine. Did they record engine serial numbers with the car sales? Just trying to understand. Help me out. With the help about Scarab history, documented. texasz's (allan?) site is still down - http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Scarab/

Scarab makes their own bellhousing? Or do they just brand a GM one? Still be nice to see some Chevy stats. That's what Chevy world is about, things like 202 or 194 heads, 4 bolt main blocks. Dual plane, single plane, high rise manifolds, M22, M21, Rockcrusher transmission, etc. Without those facts, it could be a 305 with a Saginaw. Not clear why Scarab is special or cool, besides being first, without some numbers. No offense.

Somehow the title ended up in his name. So, to the basic question - I would just list it on Craigslist and/or here. How much was it going to sell for the first time, on the sale that fell through? The reconstructed title is not a huge deal to some people. As I said above, it's not a collector year, it's an "own it and drive it" year. Somebody will buy it. Shorten the backstory to "it has a branded title after being salvaged" and spend your words on describing how it runs and overall condition, mileage, stuff like that. It's just a 1978 survivor 280Z, with decent paint. $3000 - 6000 maybe? Depending on engine condition and other details. 5 speed or 4 speed? Does it grind? How does it drive, etc. By the way, I have one of those gauges on a T at my sender just like that one. It even looks like the same brand. Probably some local dealership put them on or a shop.

Firstly, the guy is not me. Being near Portland Oregon, with a Z, I don't want any confusion there. I don't see how she could "transfer ownership" to you without your consent, or your signing of papers. And the "reconstructed" part would come from the form that she or whoever filled out, I believe. Sounds kind of like the original guy wouldn't release interest, so she went another route. Maybe unintentional, but kind of "sketchy". The car has a scary background, somebody could come out of the woodwork and claim it. Don't want to mess up your efforts but I can see how somebody might be nervous. Does the title say "remanufactured" or "reconstructed"? Still not clear there. If I read the rules right, I think that she would have had to get a salvage title first, claiming it as an Abandoned Vehicle, then a reconstructed title. http://www.odot.state.or.us/forms/dmv/229fill.pdf Interesting story. And you must have a nice phone to dictate all of that and get it in to text so clearly. Could you post a picture of the title? Might clear some things up.

That sounds right. OReilly Auto concurs - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?year=1973&make=Nissan&model=240Z&vi=5142641&keyword=wheel+lug+nut

I posted the Oregon state links because the OP said this is an Oregon car - https://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/docs/vehicle/trsalvage.pdf

The gaps on the passenger side are off and the paint looks mismatched. Like it's had some accident repair done. Seems pricey for a plain old survivor 1971 240Z, but your local market, time available, and plans for the car need to be factored in. FL cars are probably all pretty rusty. If you can travel, you could probably find a North Texas or Midwest car that's in better shape for cheaper.

Need at least some of that backstory. And as far as I can find Oregon doesn't use "remanufactured" on their titles. Maybe "rebuilt"? "Reconstructed"? Not sure. But, anyway, all it means is that at the time of damage, the insurance company "totaled" the car. Could be as simple as the paint job cost more than the car was worth. Not a huge deal if the backstory is known. 1978 is not a collector year, at this point in time. If you don't know the backstory then a future buyer's imaginatin can go crazy. Maybe it's a Hurricane Katrina car... http://oregondriverslicense.org/titles/salvage-title.html Edit - more official sources - https://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/docs/vehicle/trsalvage.pdf http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/docs/vtrh/chapter_j.pdf

Here's an alternate method. Chop saw, metal blade, and some hardware store parts. Load-wise, I think the end result is about the same, but you do lose the rubber damping on the ends, so only the center mount is damping vibrations. Only adding for future searchers. For those that don't have a welder, like me.

You'd have to find somebody with factory installed struts, never removed. Mine were, seven years ago, but I can't remember the oprientation The insulator rubber is compressed unevenly when installed and it will take a set. I've noticed it on all of mine. If you get both sides installed the same way you'll probably be fine until the rubber "resets". I think that nubs are vents or sprues for casting. Could be wrong but I don't think that that giant chunk of rubber is a precision part.

Overkill, but you could put a jack under the nose of the diff and put some lift on it. Disconnect the bottom mount so that you don't damage it. Won't be surprised if you can lift the back of the car off the ground with it. Assuming that the mating surfaces were oil/grease free. I'm surprised sometimes that we don't consider the surfaces when bolting things together that require friction to do their job. I'm sure that you did but it's often overlooked, with greasy parts assembled and bolts/nuts torqued. You might even use some Loctite or similar to buy some shear strength if it slips a bit.

Here's some - http://www.americanmuscle.com/thermaflect-tape-20ft-roll.html?utm_content=Engine - Other|Heatshield&utm_campaign=15%2B No Years&utm_source=Google-pla&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term={keyword}&AMID=thermaflect-tape-20ft-roll-FPReplacementV1&T5_Var3=blue&GID=384426&T5_Var4=384426 Metal foil tape for ductwork is also good for reflective properties. I've used Nashua on my furnace. Amazing how the adhesive holds up under heat. http://www.nashuatape.com/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4DS/ref=asc_df_B00004Z4DS5006355/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00004Z4DS&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167116234959&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1910754238379148577&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024543&hvtargid=pla-313874637779

Would you still use it if it was free? If not, then it's not "worth" it.

Is the gland nut pressing on the KYB shock body, or is it bottomed out on the external strut housing? Sometimes a washer on top of the shock is necessary to get proper clamping.

You could block the hose and see what happens. Even carb'ed cars have a fast idle mechanism on the linkage. Best case you'd have a low idle for a while and the engine would not die while you waited. I've read a few articles that suggest that warming up engines is not really beneficial. Once oil pressure is up the best way to get the engine to operating temperature is to drive it, at light load. Letting it run at cold engine temperatures actually puts more wear on the parts, because the gaps are wider and there's more unburned fuel washing away the lubricating oil.

"Louder than Love"? That's some raw Cornell. Allman and his brothers were on par with Lynyrd Skynyrd easily. It is a shame, 69 is not that many years. I was not at a bar last night. Feel like I'm slacking...

Oscar used to have quite a bit on his web site aout the various types of valves and options, but it's being "upgraded", apparently, and is useless for the time being, except for the phone number and address. http://www.zspecialties.com/

Air regulator maybe? Can't find any mention of "idle air control valve" for the 1980 cars. http://www.zcarsource.com/air-regulator-280z-280zx-300zx_8_55227.html

I remember finding some edges where the head hangs over the block and using a piece of 2x4 against the edge and a big hammer to knock the head up and break it free. Easier with the engine out of the car.

Use several, maybe made of wood or larger in diameter, to spread the load. One small prybar focused on small contact point is what will cause damage. Wrap a rag around the blade of the bar if you don't have any old shovel handles or water pipes. You should be worried. Has it separated at all? Any gaps?

Did you get the two small ones in front, to the front cover? The bolt that spins probably has a ring of rust and/or sealant that won't let the wide threads past (edit - actually it's probably stuck on the hole in the head gasket).. You can clean it off later but if the bolt just spins then the threads aren't holding the head down. Probably not the problem. The head gasket can be sticky. I hope that screwdriver or prybar isn't stuck between the head and block. That would be bad.