Zed Head

What are the specs of the new coil? Is there a brand? Matching the parts specs is the key. You haven't provided much info. Are you sure it didn't say "external resistor" not "external regulator"?

Here's a thought - maybe the wheel is hanging lower than normal. The insulator could be busted or the shock might have abnormal travel. Take a picture of the wheel hanging from distance so we can see the gap. Or maybe some members have an idea of if that hose mount on the strut looks low or not.

Looks strained to me. Is that with car on the ground or hanging in the air. Car on ground will be different, might be okay. I browsed around Rockauto and they show 10.3" as front length for 1972, Sunsong brand. But 12.12 for 1976 (280Z), Raybestos brand. Raybestos front for 1972 was 10.19" though. So your length looks right for the year but you could add 2 inches by switching to a 280Z hose.

I know there's at least one member in Georgia that likes to get out and about and he's a carb guy. @SteveJ Before you drop the tank, just disconnect the line before the fuel filter, get the pump to run if you still have an electrical pump and see what comes out. Use a 2 liter soda bottle so you can see it. You'll know in a few seconds if you have an obstruction in the tank. Or measure at the carbs. See if the float bowls are full. Maybe that's what you meant by "carburetor twitching"? And yes, your car did come with EFI. Check your engine numbers to see if it's still a 2.8 liter or a swap. And 1976 still put the engine serial number on the metal plate by the clutch MC. Compare those.

I have mixed feelings about the whole thing. I've never liked the Photobucket links because they're usually slow to load. And sometimes people let their accounts lapse or go dead and the links disappear anyway. I've always thought it made sense to load them on to the site that you post on. No offense to all y'all Photobucketeers. The internet is kind of like a big old tree. Branches will die and fall off and eventually the whole thing is going to fall over. Paper books will become like gold.

Test the coil resistance, even though it's toasted now. I'm not sure that voltage out is supposed to equal 6 volts, the thought comes from people calling it a 6 volt system. Your resistor resistance is actually higher than spec. but it also rises with current and temperature. Might get a lower number when it cools down. Seems more like your coil just crapped out. What's the brand? You can also overheat ignition parts by leaving the key at Run, if the points are closed. Maybe somebody was playing the radio at the upholstery shop, using Run instead of Acc?

Photobucket's management is incredibly short-sighted and doesn't understand their customer base at all. Weird. $400 today could be $800 tomorrow. They don't even understand why people are upset. http://www.denverpost.com/2017/07/06/photobucket-complaints-over-charging/

Will the next guy's bearing be too loose? Just a thought. Still a fan of working within the tolerances. The bearing is the replacement part. Still, good to know if you're in a time-bind.

Most of us here recommend taking measurements if you can. You can measure power and ground for the electrical components. Check for spark. Check for fuel in the float bowls for carbs, pressure if it's EFI. Watch the gauges, for signs. Your car should have electronic ignition if it's stock. Watch the tachometer when it dies. If it drops to zero but the engine is still turning because the transmission is in gear, that's a sign. If it's an automatic, it's a bit more difficult. Guessing and replacing can actually cause new problems, then you're in a bigger puzzle with more unknowns..

I'm not seeing the junk yard Audi suggestion fitting with the $350 custom axles. You lost me. The CV still needs to be bolted to the flanges, inboard and outboard. $50 per axle, with an endless supply, and some adapters might be worthwhile.

Hey, I replied to your zcar.com thread too. (You really shouldn't post on two threads at the same time. Give one a chance...) Compare the 1976 illustration with 1977 and you'll see that what I described there actually is right. Nissan removed a spacer per groove in 1977.

Do you know the dimensions? Length at at least. Maybe you're on to something. People have messed around with Pathfinder front axles because they're short, but it's a lot of work.

Good eye. Honsowetz says that when people do that they usually open up the oil passage in the block to increase flow to the head, to supply both. His has been working so it must be right enough.

Neil Young's style is hard to comprehend, let alone rate. You must be listening wrong.

He hasn't been signed in since March. I'll give him an @Dave Patten

It might the mark of Paraut. Apparently they were the OEM supplier for Atsugi (or vice-versa). Who supplied Nissan and maybe still does. I had another thread on Hybridz about rocker arms and one of the guys over there seemed to know quite a bit. Xnke. http://www.elautoparts.com/item.wws?sku=A4040-51981&itempk=86615&mfr=Paraut&weight=0.20

That's why some squirts would have been neato. It would have shown. Oh well. I often wish I'd taken pictures of things but when I'm doing them I'm just too focused on getting the job done.

Don't overlook those other rotors, used for swaps. The 280Z rear discs, and Toyota truck. Maybe somebody had an "upgrade" planned.

Did you power them up and give a few squirts? Just to know if the other caps were a problem.

There's a different set of stripes that Nissan used on their ZZZAP model. Never seen yours. http://zhome.com/History/ZZZapZ.htm That looks aftermarket. I had a friend who bought a new 1977 Celica and had stripes painted on to the new car's paint. It was a thing back then.

Edited - there are crazy people out there.

My spare 280Z discs measure a hair under 1 1/2" from the rotor surface to the top of the hat. Might help.

Here's a picture I took in the past. I'm 99% sure it came from my 1976 cylinder head, which I'm 99% sure is completely factory original. The two sides are different.

You should just install that open diff, clip the CV axles in and run it for a while. The LSD is nice but you won't really get the benefits unless you're up at 9/10ths, or driving in the wet, or dirt. The IRS of the Z's really locks the individual tires down. People report spinning two tires more often then not, with open diffs. The CV axles were used on turbo and 2+2 280ZX's. Generally thought to be stronger or at least more durable than u-joint half shafts. Maybe smoother too. Your only issue might be gearing, to match your transmission.

Here's the short axles. No grooves in the splined section like ours. Not really sure how they're held in unless they moved the clip grooves out off of the splines. to where you had put your clips.