Zed Head

I wired my injectors in series and used a car battery to just hold them open for a certain time. Then set all of the bottles on a level surface for comparison.

Is that fully warmed up? Water is a product of combustion. It would just be steam if the engine is cold.

My shims are made of steel, chromed, I think. They had some rust.where the piston has been wearing on them. Are you sure that MSA doesn't have one side available? That was the point about removing the tabs.

Have you measured voltage at the coil with the key on? That's a start.

You're on the same path that many of us have been on, trying to rationalize a solution, and trying to make what the other manufacturers say should work, work. But they often don't work. Often. So, just to plant a seed, so that it might grow as you're braking up to a light and hear the squeal starting again, on some sunny fall day in the future, I'll post one more time. Here is what always works - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5450 Remove the little tab and you can use it on either side. The tab is just a locater, for convenience.during installation. Also, note how the shim only covers about half of the caliper piston. So there's actually a small bending force across the pad during force application. Maybe that's a clue. Who knows.

Had or have? Where is the notch compared to the groove? That's the reason for the three holes, to get those aligned. It could indicate a very worn engine though, that somebody has been adjusting to stay in tune. Might just be worn out. The black plugs might be from oil burning.

You said you had a new problem. So old things you've checked might have changed, especially since you've been working on the engine.

Another source of lean is a leak at the injector-manifold interface. The o-ring (edit - actually o-shaped gasket). You can test that with carb cleaner or starting fluid. Both might remove paint though (they did on mine). WD-40 might show something also or even plain old oil, in sealing up a vacuum leak. Whatever way, a change in idle behavior is the clue.

Go immediately to Pin 13 at the ECU connector and confirm that the resistance is correct for the temperature. Check that the AFM vane moves freely and isn't stuck. Basically, check the stuff that controls fuel.

I put all six of my injectors on a rail with a pump then filled 6 Coke bottles with fuel. Battery power to the pump and the injectors, with a separate switch for both. Scary because the fuel is partially vaporized as it squirts out, especially if you try later model injectors. Have to be aware of the wind direction, sparks, and run-away paths. Only good for wide open but will show clogs. The set that came with my car were way out of balance. But the engine still ran pretty well. The idle air adjustment screw is a good idea. Just make sure to keep track of the turns so you don't get lost wondering where your start point was. But it will definitely have an effect. The EFI systems were tuned for mid-1970's fuel so today's oxygenated blends probably won't idle the same, for sure. I didn't feel bad about changing my settings at all. It's hard to get the screwdriver head, straight blade, in the slot, but it is back there. Use a mirror. Backing out lets more air past the vane, so leaner, screwing in makes it richer. It's an air passage. My intake manifold is the non-EGR N42 type. #1 is always lean, I've swapped several sets of injectors on to it, after flow-testing them to confirm that they're balanced.

One big weakness of multiport iinjection EFI is that there's an assumption that all of the cylinders get the same quantity of air. My #1 cylinder has always run lean, suggesting that it gets more air than the others. 5 and 6 tend to run rich. Kind of seems backward since #1 is behind the air path curve and 5 and 6 are at the end. It could be fixed with individual pulse control. Easier to just run rich on a few.

You didn't at Kat. @Kat Edit - is it Kat or Kats? I could only find a Kat. edit 2 - alphabetical... Too many kat before @kats

Are they the stick-on shims? Glued? This topic comes up often. I couldn't get anything but the Nissan free-floating shims to stop my squeal.

This link might be helpful as a start, you can dig up the catalog with the dimensions. I've seen where people have drilled their own hanger holes, can't remember why. I think it was a similar situation to yours. Long as they're hanging in the right spot and the contact points between pad and caliper meet, you can probably make something work. https://www.bendix.com.au/sites/default/files/news-uploads/measuring_a_brake_pad_technical_bulletin.pdf

He was a new guy, I think it was his first post, today. He wrote with authority about how the EFI system worked. I probably offended him when I gave my view of how some of EFI parts really worked. His premise was that the TVS was faulty because when the engine got close to operating temperature it would lose the ability to accelerate. Wouldn't accelerate correctly when he pressed the throttle, apparently.. Then everything would work great after the engine got fully warmed up. He was convinced that it was the TVS causing the problem. Just wondered how a person could disappear a thread.

Did anybody notice the thread from the guy that had the TPS question? Did he reply with some curses or something because I corrected him on TVS versus TPS , and get deleted,or did he delete his own thread? Or what... Just curious. Weird that it's just gone. Didn't know you could delete a whole thread, if it's yours. Maybe you can. Edit - looks like theirs a "Moderation Action of Hide. Maybe he's hiding.

We need the ratios, in order to make an informed decision. Kill, kill, kill. Interesting topic. Not sure that all wasps kill honeybees. Yellowjackets tend to live underground. Best to figure out what kind of wasps you're dealing with first.

Those two heads are essentially the same. The exhaust ports are different though, so you need the right exhaust manifold. There's another style of head for the L28, either a P79 or P90. It came with flat-top pistons. The N42 and N47 came with dished pistons.

I have that "problem". A few dull thuds then smooth running. Been doing it for ~20,000 miles at least with no change. The filter should speed up the pressurization process if the anti-drainback valve is working, but I think with thinner oil you'll always get a few knocks. I noticed when I ran Rotella that my oil pressure tended higher, despite the similar weight to other oils I had used. Those viscosity numbers are from a lab, higher pressure readings in the engine indicate higher viscosity at running temperature.

They eat bugs too. I saw a small one attack a bug on my front porch the other day. Great entertainment. http://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-41042948

Sounds like you have a short on the grounding side of the injectors. The injectors are on two parallel circuits so one short could drop voltage on several pins at the ECU connector, I believe. Could be a pinched wire in the injector harness or at an injector. Check the wires from the ECU connector to each injector closely. After you confirm that you have 12 volts available, as Dave suggests. Measure each injector circuit and see if they all show the drop or just some of them. If the threads are stripped on that starter lug try adding some washers under the nut to keep it on good threads.

Looks like it has half of the propeller shaft used for the 5 speed, the FS5C71B. Interesting. Those parts the guy has, whatever they are, might be good for a more correct resto. Had to do some research, and my guess might be wrong.

Keep an eye out for complete cars. Many old Z's are out there, not running, but still with good parts. ZX's too. Any Z or ZX up to 1983 would have an engine, transmission, and rear differential that will swap in to your 240Z. I bought a 78 280Z just for the transmission, but the engine is in my car now, and runs great. It sat for 10 years. $300 and $100 for towing. But that was a while ago.

If the guy didn't have a direct answer about the core plug I'd walk. If it popped because the coolant froze there could be a cracked block or head. Don't assume the best, assume the worst. Assuming the best is the best way to lose money when you're buying used engine parts. Edit - everything about this thread says that you're about to give a guy a lot of money for a big problem. You're exactly the person he's been looking for, a guy who needs and engine and doesn't know anything at all about them. He'll probably work hard to keep you hooked.

The question you should ask yourself is do you want to rebuild an engine, or just install an engine that's ready to run. For $400, in the states anyway, that should buy and engine ready to run. If the engine needs new rings, or an overbore, and new pistons, you'll end up spending a lot more money and the car will be down for much longer. You'll have a car that can't be driven and two engines taken apart, and a list of things that you need to buy. Just for fun, ask that guy why the core plug )many people call them freeze plugs) has been removed, and why he didn't reinstall it. Ask him if the head has been removed.