Zed Head

Sounds like it's running very lean. You probably have a leak in to the crankcase from one of the PCV hoses. Examine all of them, including the one in to the block under the intake manifold. Make sure all of the hoses in this picture actually go somewhere important. All of the air that goes in to the intake manifold needs to go through the AFM. So check the hoses from the AFM to the manifold also. If you can, confirm that your fuel pressure is correct also. Pumps get noisy when they have to push hard through something like a kinked line or blocked filter, or when they have to pull the fuel against a restriction. You could have fuel starvation.

Hope I wasn't too blunt earlier. The clutch control is actually very simple once you dig in to it. The reason that the same measurement works for all combinations of engine, clutch and transmission is because the slave cylinder bolts to the tranmssion in the smae spot on all transmissions, and the fork pivot is the same height, and the flywheel surface is usually the same distance from the mating surface of engine and transmission. Here's a diagram from the 1972 FSM showing the relationship of all of the parts, with the adjustable rod. You can see how the angle of the fork needs to be the same (edit - unless you have the adjustable rod. But Nissan got rid of that, probably to hold the best angle for the slave cylinder travel) because the slave cylinder and fork pivot can't move. They're fixed. So the fork at the collar is always starting in the same spot. so you have to adjust the collar to make everything work right. It's all about where the end of the fork starts its movement. p.s. Found that the new software allows CTRL V pasting of snipped images right in to the post. Sweet.

The oil from the oiler also oils the valve stems and their seals, and some slips past for the guides. Oil draining and flying everywhere when it works right. When a piece of the system fell off the rest of the holes didn't get any pressure. The front cylinders might have got some timing chain sprocket and chain splash, while the back was drier. I'm just conjecturing. I'd guess things got dry, some valve stems and guides and cam lobes and rocker arms got very hot, and this affected the seals and the valves themselves. Basically most of the valve train overheated. Might also be that there was some lobe wear and the valves aren't opening at the correct time. #4 might be dying. Did you check valve lash when you replaced the oiler section? Just one possibility.

If it doesn't keep rising, past the M, on th highway, you don't really have a problem. Ranges have a high and a low.

We already said that your measurements look right. Confirm that the hydraulics do what they're supposed to do. Measure the distance that the slave cylinder extends out of its bore when the pedal is pushed. Hydraulics can fool a person.

Nobody mentioned diameter. Maybe "thickness" is a better word. Stole this from EuroDat's past post. Post #33.

That would be the pinion shaft flange. There are different styles out there. Beware. Specify the drive (propeller shaft) that you'll be using. The Z's up through the 280ZX's all used the same bolt pattern and bolt size, except for 1975. Might be easiest just to get an old open 240 - 280Z open diff (except 1975) and steal the pinion flange.

I have a complete 240Z driveshaft. Two actually. Both the short style though, for the offset diff. But the flange would be removable.

Just noticed that Patcon has some nice parts for sale. A very nice looking shift knob, if you want something that looks good. Mine are still available, just saying.

PM me an address and I'll see what the charge is. Looks like CO might have another source. Winorama.

I have one. Should work. PM me and address and I'll see what shipping costs.

Here's the two. One is a 75/76 unit that I picked up for cheap, A31-060 001, and the other came on my 1978 parts car. A31-604 000. It has a working fuel pump contact though, so I used it on my 76 for a while. They both work, with the tweak, so you'll have to overcome the quease of destroying a working part. Or just put it back together when you're done. They both have the backfire valve in the vane.

I think I kept those. Out there somewhere, I'll look. That's a USPS flat rate part, I think. I'm not a big shipper so if somebody knows the cheap ways, chime in.

I would second that, IF he was measuring across the switch. Unclear what he measured.

delete.

There are two sides - one to the lights and their ground point, and the other from the power source, You only reported one number. Break out that circuit testing knowledge. This is a very simple one, power on one side and device on the other. It's just a switch, a break in the circuit. Button in, circuit made, button out, circuit broken.

The switch at the brake pedal is a simple on-off switch, actuated by the pedal positon. It should have power to the connector at all times. That would be the simplest place to start I think. If there's no power there then you'll know which side to work on to narrow things down. Crawl up under the dash with a meter and see what you find.

Which switch? Which car? Have you checked the fuse? You should add your car description to your sig. It's in your profile.

Anybody using the Opera browser? I just downloaded it and set it up with bookmarks, and it's pretty nice. Google pissed me off when they wouldn't "recognize the device" I've been using for years to log in to a Gmail account, and would not use the other security methods. Phone only. I think it's a scam to keep all devices connected so that they can do more tracking. Google sucks.

I have the valance corner that connects to that cross piece that we all scrape on the parking bumpers. Actually have both in really nice shape, hanging in the garage. Doubt that I'll ever replace mine, but they looked too good not to get, when I was at the wrecking yard. If you can put a list together, I'll try to fill it. I have a paypal account. I'll put it in the PM's that I send. Rather not broadcast to the world, so please keep it private. I'm paranoid.

I bought a plain old parts store replacement radiator from OReilly auto. The mounting holes and flanges needed minor adjustment but everything else fit and it works great. I think that almost all of the steel replacement radiators are made at the same factory in China, and just have different names on them. That's probably the cheapest route, and if there's a problem you can just drive to the store and get a replacement.

I just remembered something that I'd read in the past about Fidanza flywheels - some of them are thinner than the stock flywheel, apparently So they'd need a taller collar and the 92mm number might not be enough. If you have the factory flywheel you'd have enough to figure it out.

I think that's where his steel rule is sitting. Looks right. Next check would be the MC, assuming that the system was properly bled. There are two seals in the MC, one to move the piston and generate pressure, the other to keep the fluid inside if the first piston fails. If you didn't already have it apart we would have asked you to press the pedal and measure how far the slave piston moved. Since it's apart, I'd try to rig up a device that will hold the slave piston in its bore and see if pressing the clutch pedal forces it to move. Might take some ingenuity. But, the pressure plate and collar look like a good matched set. p.s. You know, if you put the wood on the top and the steel rule on the side you wouldn't have to do the conversion math. Just saying....

CO, do you promise to consider developing a method for using a late model MAF sensor in place of the AFM? At least I've planted a seed. I have at least one with a lean spot at low-to-mid RPM that I can send out. It needed the coolant sensor tweak to work well. I'll send you a PM when I get it out and boxed up. Odd, but the factory AFM's pass emissions here better than my MSA reman AFM, even with adjsuting the idle bypass. But the MSA reman' is smoother across the range. Maybe mine is unique, but it has made it a pain every two years. ensys, I don't have any bumper rubber. It would be on my 76 if I did. I have one tail light socket but I am waiting for the fix on my car to fail so I can use it. Don't be nervous to ask. I'm thinking of making a move and realize I have a lot of stuff that might end up at the scrap yard if I have to move quick. My car is pretty well sorted out, and things aren't breaking like they used to.

Is it out now? Take the measurement shown in my picture. Should be around 92 mm to the surface the fork rides on. You don't seem to be measuring anything in yours, the tape is just laying there. The bearing looks right.