Zed Head

Not sure what format you pasted there but those videos have no visuals on my computer. A picture might be better.

Somebody died there today, from a bullet, but there's not much reporting about it. I've only seen that "she was among the protesters".

My internet connection went down for a couple of minutes while this was going on. I started to wonder if there might really be a coordinated effort. Who knows. But, It's back.

Clowns exposed.

Really look concerned about the "stolen election". Looters.

This is like one of those ED commercials.

That's getting deep Mark. Some of it is just "look at me", the internet generation also, I think. Just a giant Instagram party.

Big picture-wise, probably best that this happens now. So people understand what's possible and prepare for it next time. The news shows keep it calling it a coup attempt, but that implies a plan for after the takeover. It's really just a bunch of people looking for somewhere to tear things up, no plan. A big flag-waving party. They're in, what do they do now?

Baby chews, baby chews. Okay to spit up now and then...

Seems weird that my package of Made in China KN95 masks are coming from Georgia. Tracking the package as I watch Trump's "supporters" storm the Capitol building. Strange times... January 5, 2021 at 9:40 am Departed Shipping Partner Facility, USPS Awaiting Item JEFFERSON, GA 30549 https://covidactnow.org/us/georgia-ga?s=1490446

Here's a shift fork problem, check those.

I haven't looked but I seem to recall Dave WM, and maybe others, not finding the destroyed adapter plate bearings until they took things apart. Some people rebuilt their transmission's for synchros and found the bad bearings by accident. Most people are surprised at how well the transmissions work even with all of the damage. If you didn't find any metal it might be that somebody already cleaned the drain plug. Anyway, I think you need to tear it down all the way. zKars, Dave WM, EuroDat, others I'm not remembering have all written some good stuff about it. I'll post links as I find them.

You'll need the fluid reservoir that the pump fits. It's fitted and sealed at the bottom of the reservoir. Might as well power up the pump and make sure it spins. Some don't.

I think that "dead head" and "return" refer to the style of the system, not anything to do with the regulator. The regulator itself will still bypass overpressure fuel back to the tank, or stop producing flow at a certain pressure value. So you could put the regulator back at the tank and run a deadhead system, or at the end of the rail. You could even put the regulator farther down the return line, not right at the engine or carbs. The regulator will always use whatever pressure the pump can supply though, so flow isn't a huge concern to the regulator. Any flow problems will probably come from the lines and filters along the way. The original system uses a blockage in the line, the orifice, because the mechanical pumps have an internal pressure limiting system, with the valves that open up inside stopping pressure buildup. With an electric pump I think the pressure range that they show is probably the result of voltage swings, which cause motor RPM changes. Idle voltage gives low flow/pressure, charging voltage gives high. So with orifice control you'll probably always have pressure swings in the system. But the needle valve in the float bowl should block that pressure from affecting carb performance. I've not really understood why pressure control is so critical on these carbs. The floats should rise, the needle valve closes, and the fuel in the carb is at atmospheric pressure, supposedly. The pressure in the fuel lines can fluctuate but the needle valve should be blocking that from the float bowl. Maybe the float design is weak. Maybe it's not the carbs, but the supply lines. Don't know but you don't see so much discussion about the topic for typical Holleys or Carters or whatever. They all use floats and needle valves. Here's a basic article from the global computer file system. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/the-answers-deatschwerks-responses-to-your-fuel-system-questions/ Does the location of the fuel pressure regulator matter at all in a return-style system? Does it make a difference if I run the regulator before or after the fuel rails? – Robert C. A true return-style fuel system places the regulator after the fuel rails. A dead-head fuel system places the regulator before the fuel rails, but on the engine-side of the firewall. As with everything, there are pros and cons to the different systems. A return-style system provides the most stable fuel pressure and the highest flow potential. This is the most common set-up for aftermarket performance fuel systems and is the best option for builds with really big fuel demands. Dead-head fuel systems are usually used when the customer has OE rails that have no provisions for a return line, and they don’t want the added expense of aftermarket rails and additional lines and fittings. They also provide a cleaner looking engine bay by eliminating some of the “unnecessary” plumbing. The only downside with this style versus return-style is they are more susceptible to fuel rail hammer and fuel pressure spikes in rapid transitions from high to low fuel demand. If I were building a 1,000-horsepower or bigger system, I would go with full return-style. In anything else, it doesn’t really matter.

I wasn't thinking that your damper had fallen apart. Are you sure that the pulley matches the spot on the hub that it did before it fell apart? Match the rust or paint marks, I guess.

That's what the keyway and key are for. Check the timing notch on the damper. Early 240Z's had several, 280Z's have one. And they might be on the wrong sides. Make sure new matches old or you won't be able to set your ignition timing.

https://zspecialties.com/ https://zspecialties.com/product/crank_pulley_rebuilt_70-73/

Do the flat mating surface on the backside also. That's the part that clamps it to the crankshaft. And be careful with the key in the keyway, I've read stories of them getting cokced and/or pushed out of place during installation. Many people use red loctite, just to the be extra safe. But Nissan doesn't call for any threadlocker. I'd just use blue. Nissan instructions make it "no big deal". Racer X and Zup know more, I'm just talking about the basics and things I've read. p.s. I would avoid getting any antiseize on the mating surface at the back. The bolt clamps that surface to the crankshaft and making it slippery will put extra load on the key, which is supposed to be mainly for locating, as most keys are. You want that friction. p.s. 2 check that the hub length is the same as the old one and make sure the bolt doesn't bottom out before clamping. More stuff I've read. Problems people have had...

Might be that the prefilter is already clogged, if the tank has crud in it. Make sure the AFM vane is opening like it should. Also, even though the engine started your timing could still be retarded. Difficulty building revs is typical of retarded timing. You need a timing light. You're at the small steps stage now. A bunch of them.

Once you get chunks of metal floating around in there things can get jammed up. zKars had a whole writeup on a transmission rebuild. Others have also. EuroDat comes to mind. Tools can be fabricated. There are basically two things that hold a gear in place once it's chosen, the balls in the adapter plate, and the inserts under the coupler sleeve. It's late and I might have picked the wrong words but overall it's simple. Making it all work right can be complex. Definitely doable, but challenging.

Cold start valve. You can just pull the line and plug it with a bolt and a hose clamp if you think it's stuck open. Find a good bolt and a good clamp and don't leave it long, it's under pressure. Your timing sounds like it might be retarded, The engine spins really freely. I've found that Nissan put marks on the distributor and adjustment plate, probably for manufacturing assembly, that will get timing close. Two lines. Line them up and see if it starts more normally. That is a lot of fuel though. I'd block that CSV before you burn things down/up. Plus, if you had an air filter in there it was probably soaked and blocking air flow.

Yes, your synchros (baulk rings) look terrible. Looks like one has been completely destroyed. From what I've seen, just over the few years I've been browsing Z car internet stuff, I'll bet that one of the bearings in the adapter plate is falling apart. Grab the shafts and wiggle them around while you try to see down at the bearing area. Check this recent thread out. It shows the aftermath. But the gears themselves seem very durable. Several people have just replaced bearings and synchros despite the damage and been back to like-new condition. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64776-280zx-5-speed-wont-reverse/?do=findComment&comment=613709

This is good BAT ammo, like asking for firewall VINs. Kind of bummed that the wave of Z's for sale seems to have passed by. Only a ZX is up now.

They smell different. Burning oil smells like burnt oil, too much fuel from the carbs smells like raw gasoline. Seems obvious, of course, but you have to have that in mind and take a sniff. And, if your oil level drops but you don't have leaks, that's a sign.

Kind of sounds like ignition timing. Confirm that the spark plug wires are on the correct cylinders and the timing is correct.