Zed Head

Stereo brand?

https://apnews.com/article/coronavirus-pandemic-health-941fcf43d9731c76c16e7354f5d5e187

It's kind of becoming background now but at least it's skewing more toward free will and choice. Those who choose to take the risk pay a higher price. Of course, though, they'll take some innocent people with them, just like speeding or driving drunk or smoking. Things are getting more Darwinian.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/rebuild_kits/

A slightly modded 73 240Z with a California Datsun engine. Wonder what kind of parts it has inside. It sounds decent. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-174/ A replacement L28 2.8-liter inline-six was reportedly sourced from California Datsun and installed in 2016. https://www.californiadatsun.com/engine/long-block-short-block-engines/

Here's an old thread that might have some clues. Might help also to to take the other side apart and see how it's supposed to look.

Edited - getting too grammatical.

It's a small block chevy with a Holley. Not a whole lot to inspect. The bowls have a sight glass, right? Should answer the bowl fill question. You can look down the barrels when you work the throttle for the pump. The bowls come off pretty easily for draining and inspection. That's why they're a popular carb, I think. Easy to work on.

There is a ton on the site and around the internet about when the fuel pump gets power. 1976 has the fuel pump contacts in the AFM. The way to test for pump power is to remove the yellow solenoid wire at the starter and turn the key to Start. Not clear how far you're turning the key.

How much was in the tank when you added the 1/2 tank? Might be just bad gas. But the falling flat when you punch it sounds like a bad accelerator pump. The diaphragms crack, I think. Vague old memories. And, don't overlook the old mouse nest in the air box. They can work fast.

Lemon-lime/green-yellow race car ready to get towed back on to the track. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-36/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-07-15

And MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3491 Rockauto. I'll bet your local auto parts store might even have them. NAPA maybe. Give them the Standard part number and they can cross-ref. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector+seal+/+o-ring,13679

https://www.yalemedicine.org/news/5-things-to-know-delta-variant-covid

No politics, focus on COVID didn't last long. https://covidactnow.org/?s=2040960

Doesn't @Dave WM have a 75? @wheee! has a 76. Maybe they can pop those fuses out and see if the turn signals still work. That's the test, right? Fuses should be removed and checked every now and then anyway, especially on these old cars. Here's some others I found. @fusion 1976 @carcrazyken 76 @280z762021 @76280z @bhermes @Barefootdan 75 @Cruzzar 75 @ernesto75

A magnetic part picker might help.

Never mind.

My post wasn't helpful. On the blind hole alignment - there are no tricks., except maybe to surround the area below with a rag or plastic so that when you drop parts they can be easily found. Wait until you try to get the clip on after you get the pin through.

Probably won't know until you're in the middle of it. Hope for the best, plan for problems. Remember that you'll probably be tilting the engine down at the back so there will be more room to slide the transmission out. I think that's your potential bind though, having room to slide the transmission back past the end of the headers, without hitting the body in the tunnel, before you can drop it down. Just a guess. Don't let the fan blades hit the radiator.

Here's 1975. If the fuse box cover changed in 1976 but the diagrams didn't I'd say it's just an oversight on Nissan's part. Or the change happened mid-1976. There does seem to be more than one version of the 1975 FSM. I have one that has many typos and errors. Maybe there are multiple 1976 versions too.

And the 77 (published 76) FSM shows fuse 3 on the cover.

I sold my 76 otherwise I'd have an answer right now. Should be able to pull the third and /or/then fourth fuses and see what happens. I'm going to go with the BE-12 diagram is wrong. The fuse box cover has a lot more expense invested in it. Does 77 have the same issue? I've never been sure if there is a "real" 77 FSM available on the internet. The ones I have downloaded look like 76 FSM's. Actually, I just opened one of my 77 FSM's and it shows publication in 1976. Which makes sense for 77. And it shows turn signals on fuse 3. So, it looks like the "76" FSM might be wrong. Page BE-10 from the 77 FSM. That's one of the beauties of the old Z cars. So many layers to peel. It's not just a sports car.

That would be correct. Green/Red is the power supply from the fuse box. Green/Black is the wire that gets grounded when you press the horn button. Green is the wire that sends power to the horns. If you're seeing power on two wires without pressing the horn button then either the relay is bad or the Green/Black wire is shorted to ground. But, also, if you're seeing power on the Green wire but the horns aren't making noise that means that the horns either don't work or are not connected to the Green wire like they should be. Connect only the Green and the Green/Red and see if you still have power to two wires. You should only have power at Green/Red. If you have power at Green that means the Green/Black is shorted somewhere o the way to the horn button or the horn button is stuck. Green/black goes to the horn button in the schematic. And, check the bottom of the relay. It probably has marks, H, B, and S. H is Green, B is Green/Red and S is horn button (probably stands for Signal?, maybe).

Which wiring diagram are you using? The 1976 Service Bulletin describes some changes from 1975. Might be worth a browse. And the eye-straining black and white diagram downloads with the 1976 FSM. It's actually a very crisp copy, compared to some, still just all thin black lines. I got mine from a different site though, not 100% on the CZCC version. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/5-service-documents/