Zed Head

Could be, or it could just be dirty. There's a round thing that spins inside a round thing, or close to it, with a narrow gap between them. Stuff can get in the gap. If you're handy you could remove it and use a drill motor to spin it to see if it still sticks. That takes the cable out of the picture. I think that I've read of people just blowing out the dust accumulation and bring them back to life. https://www.google.com/search?q=how+a+speedometer+works&site=webhp&tbm=vid&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiNj8vd8sfSAhUDx2MKHfwqD84Q_AUICCgB&biw=1280&bih=890&dpr=1

There's a fuse too. Don't forget to check it.

From an 810? Or did you mean L28E? I'd list all of the parts and describe how it worked. Lots of mystery otherwise.

I wonder if you could spray the engine with soapy water and make bubbles like you do for a hole in a tire. I tried some of that plumber's leak finder solution to try to find an exhaust leak but things got hot too fast and it just dried up. The fog machine seems to work for many different purposes. To CO's point on the open valves letting pressure out, the closed valve cylinders will have dead-air no-flow zones in the runners. Probably worthwhile to let the fog flow for a while to let any small leaks let the fog flow in eventually. You could miss a small leak if you're n a hurry.

Wise? What does wise have to do with old sports cars? The ECU's aren't tunable or chippable or modifiable. You'd need standalone if you want to play around with tuning. Most people seem to go with Megasquirt due to cost but there are many more options, some every expensive.

I see. I like the idea of just sacrificing a nut over taking a chance on the stud. I bought a wrecking yard manifold as a spare and spent a lot of time and effort removing a broken stud and that was on the bench, with a torch, and PB Blaster, and a hole drilled through to get the Blaster in behind, and good leverage. It was kind of incredible how stuck if t was. It would only budge when the manifold was hot. I wonder if a cutoff wheel would be easier. Cut up what you can reach and chisel off the rest. Or maybe a different type of nut-buster. I don't know what's out there. I still have a nut stuck on a stud that I use as a bolt on my currently in-use exhaust manifold. It all went together right in the beginning but later the nut and stud came out together. I just use them in the hole they came out of that way.

No offense, I understood the first paragraph - you used a nut splitter on an exhaust stud to avoid breaking a stud. That sounds like a great recommendation for anyone who is worried about that and seems wothwhile But I can't get a meaning out of the second paragraph. I'm sure the thought was clear in your head but it didn't make it in to the words. This sentence just twisted my brain - "I am pretty sure the back the middle one with a swivel joint and extension with the windshield washer door up you could do, the other may be more of a challenge".

You might have mentioned it, but where are you doing your searching? A few people here frequent the Bring-a-Trailer site, I think someone might have mentioned it in your other thread, If you're looking nation-wide that seems like a good core to your searching. Here's one that seems to fit your profile. http://bringatrailer.com/2016/10/06/no-reserve-running-project-1973-datsun-240z/ Edit - except that it's so old that the eBay ad expired. But still...

The bushings are plastic from Nissan, although there is a brass parts store fix used often. You can get them from Nissan still, try you local dealer. Can't remember what year your car is so no recommendations on what might be wrong. Check the bottom bushing also. They crack and chip. Did you take the transmission apart? It's possible to lock the gears up when it's put back together. You didn't say if the lever moved and nothing happened or if the lever won't move. http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/32855h1010 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/31 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/32

Seems like you're in that conflict zone between wanting something now and getting what you want. I'm pretty sure that there are other 75-78 280Z's out there somewhere for less money, that could be driven while you work and modify, or restore. 1976 isn't really a popular restoration year, and that one is pretty worn. The dash looks shot, and it looks like a frame rail might be peeling off or a floor pan has been tacked in. Can't tell what the big seam is in one of the pictures. It looks like a decent candidate for a modification project, but $5000 seems steep. If you're really planning a full restoration, the early cars seem to give more return for effort, and have more resto parts available. 280Z resto parts are hard to find.

You offered good advice. But it was already mentioned. And you only have two posts and apparently either ignored or didn't put the effort in to considering what other members have contributed. That's not good. Just trying to show a new member how this forum works. Generally, people here don't talk over what other members have already contributed. They add to it. It's one of the more civil and considerate forums on the internet. I used the computer to count the mentions of the word "ground". To be sure I was correct. Welcome to the forum.

Good news. The inside of the pump can get rusty or corroded if any water got in to the fuel and it sat for a while. If you're on a tight budget there are factory EFI pumps in old Ford trucks and other cars, like BMW's, that will do the job, that you can get from a wrecking yard for cheap. But the parts store Airtex pumps seem to be pretty durable too. Racer X, "ground" was mentioned 10 times on page 1, and shown in an illustration. Just saying...it's there.

No offense, but there's a lot of distance between your first post and the one above. You already have a custom Toyota engine to Nissan transmission adapter, but you're concerned about a "transmission bracket" and don't know how to get an LSD in to your car? The elements of the story are discordant. Why don't you just use a IJZ 5 speed, the R154? (I had to do a Google to be sure about the R154. Not a 1JZ expert). How about a picture of the adapter plate, mounted up? We all love a good piece of machining.

Austin Hoke was working on one - http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/product-development/ http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/l-series-350z-6-speed-adapter He might behind schedule, I don't see it as a finished product. " I still hope to finish the project by the end of summer 2015. " http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/

A more correct name for it would probably be "scavenging" system, based on what appears to be its design purpose. The fresh air is meant to move gases out of the engine internals and in to the intake system. PCS? I found a few interesting articles out there, one about choosing a different PCV valve after modifying an engine for more power. It didn't make a lot of sense since the crankcase volume was the same. Not clear to me how the desired flow rate is determined. If it's based on blowby then we should all be changing our PCV valves as engine wear increases blowby. I tried to find some old PCV valves yesterday to examine but I've removed them all and put them n a container somewhere, from the last time i wondered about them. I was pretty sure that the spring was on the bottom, or crankcase side and the pintle sat on top of it. Which doesn't fit CO's description, since then gravity is all that keeps the valve open at low vacuum. That's why the thought about vertical versus horizontal came to mind. All of these years of diagnosing people's engine problems but we rarely say "check your PCV valve". Who knows.

I was going to post this in CO's "relocating the PCV valve" thread but it's fallen off the "Activity" page and I can't find it. Have y'all noticed that there is a wide variety of part numbers for PCV valves but they mostly look identical? Why is that? Why doesn't one size fit all? And will a PCV valve specified for a vertical application work the same if it's located horizontally? Is there a test for PCV valve function that is ore sophisticated than blowing air through it and shaking it to make sure it rattles? Why is there a spring only on one side of the internal valve? When does the valve close (it is a "valve" after all)? Just wondering if relocating the PCV to the side of the valve cover is as easy as it seems. I've pondered these things in the past.and realized some things but mostly ignore the valve entirely.

It might also indicate a clogged PCV valve. That's where the extra air gets in when you remove the filler cap. The booster hose though, that's a surprise since that would be a huge amount of extra unmetered air. Should have seen an effect there. Odd. Did you remove it at the manifold or at the booster? You might also have extra fuel being supplied, since it didn't lean out and die. Once you fix the leaks, if that's the problem, it will be running rich. Your AFM might have been messed with. You likely have a much longer path ahead of you, since you're learning in the fly. Wait 'til we start talking about the BCDD. The one thing that's confirmed though is that your system is way out of whack. On a properly working EFI system, you can get an idle speed increase just from removing the tiny hose at the manifold that feeds the AC control bottle. And removing the filler cap will kill the engine.

"y"? Seriously, the w and the h were too much effort? You need to look under your new Z car. There is no "subframe" to swap. The 350Z diff is shorter. The 350Z transmission is built for a V6, not a straight 6, it's not a bolt-in. It doesn't fit correctly. The 350Z parts are, for the most part, useless for any Z car built before 1984. If you have a smashed up 350Z that you're trying to salvage from, there's nothing there that's of significant value for your 78 280Z. You should stop focusing on the 350Z. There's no value.

Aack. Octane rating won't affect the fuel-air ratio. Could be you're experiencing something similar to the "clean car" effect. When your engine runs better after you wash the car.

I was looking at what appears to be the factory 1977 FSM. Published in 1976. But it's from the internet so who knows. All good, .038 will run fine.

Hey, I was wrong in my post about your 1977 ignition system. Nissan was setting plugs at .040 by then, not the low end like my 76. But .038" is fine for what you're doing, not worth going back. Here's a test you can do to see if you have a vacuum leak that maybe somebody tuned around in the past - loosen the oil filler cap and slowly remove it. See if the idle speed gets faster or slower, and if the engine dies when it's fully removed. It's a simple test, similar to moving the AFM vane, except it makes the mixture leaner. The other test you can do is to either remove the hose from the AFM and push the vane open, or remove the black cover on the side of the AFM and move the weight to open the vane. The black cover pops off with a flat blade screwdriver, but is sometimes sealed with silicone. If it has a large amount of silicone then somebody has already been in there and may have messed up your AFM tuning. Opening the vane tells the ECU that more air is entering and it supplies more fuel, making the mixture rich. The amount of air is controlled by the throttle blade so don't think that you're allowing more air in, you're just fooling the ECU. Since you've confirmed all of the timing events and compression and the engine should run right if the fueling is right, these two tests might tell you if you're running lean or rich. If you can get it to run better by changing the fuel-air ratio then you'll have a target to shoot at, making the mixture leaner or richer, or fixing vacuum leaks. Good luck.

https://www.whiteheadperformance.com/?s=clsd&post_type=product + shipping which is expensive.

The 350Z diff is a short nose diff. It's not a bolt-in option, you'd have to buy a swap kit, and change the pinion shaft, or modify a driveshaft (you'd need a longer driveshaft anyway because the diff is shorter). Plus it's a VLSD, which many people feel is a lesser option than a CLSD or Torsen style. And the VLSD input shafts are a different spline pattern so you'd need new half-shafts. Lots of money and work involved. Here's a bolt-in option for your 78 280Z if you have an R200 - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121007-mfactory-r200-lsd/page-4

Sorry to be blunt. I'm just trying to figure out what you're really trying to do. There are actually people on the forum who have been working on their cars for years, and have never driven them. Because they like the work more than the driving. They're building something. My bluntness is also an attempt to break through, and make the point that there is a basic logic level to work from, starting with how the basic elements of the system work. For example, on the injectors, you could just disconnect the coil's power wire. No spark, no injection. And the fuel pump power system is also described, so you don't have to guess there either. Just trying to help. You have the "searching where the light is" problem. Now that's a funny joke. I Googled it and it's even been Wikipediaized - the streetlight effect.

Are you sure that you're not actually enjoying working on the car more than having it run well? Are there wires attached to the mysterious box? You didn't mention them. And if you can't get it open, then how can you know it's potted? Just saying. There's a simple test of fuel pump operation that get's mentioned about ten times a month. Remove the starter solenoid wire and turn the key to Start. Although, you say that you've lost pressure but haven't mentioned if the fuel pump is operating. You have a lot of good information in your threads. If you could just get them in order the cause of the problem would probably show up. You're jumping around from thing to thing, and some of them don't really fit a good diagnostic method. Like why would you be unplugging all of the injectors? Seriously, once you've tried the obvious things and haven't found a solution, it works best to go through the basics, in an orderly fashion. The car looks very clean and original (unless that's a car from the internet). Doesn't seem like there is much wire hacking, you even have the original rubber cap on the coil, so the basics should work to solve the problem.