Zed Head

Thought you said there was. Do you know what the fuel pressure at the carb inlet is? And flow? If you're filling the float bowl at a low rate it might be that the flow rate is just too low, not because of the 35 gph pump, but for other reasons. Clogged filter maybe.

35 gph = 132,000 cc/h = 2200 cc/m That should support about 330 HP. Your pump should be supplying plenty of fuel. https://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx Check that it's actually able to flow that much. Disconnect the return line and see how much comes out. Measure it if you have a container. Is it a new Holley, or used?

I had an annoying clicking noise from my clutch pedal and it turned out to be a worn/notched pivot pin. Now that was difficult to replace. One of the PO's of my car had used pliers to enhance the area around the pin, and it was still difficult. Best to find a person with small hands if that's the problem.

Isn't the bolt in question attached to the pedal itself? You could use a broom stick against the seat back to hold the pedal down to make it easy work on the bolt. If you have strong fingers you might be able to peel the old rubber off, or cut it off, then press the new rubber on. No removing the bolt. You can reach it with your right hand, kneeling next to the car, with the driver's door open. I just went and checked out my 76, not too difficult. Finding the rubber bit might be the hardest part.

Thanks. That wasn't around, or at least it wasn't easily findable, when I built mine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anodized-Fuel-RAIL-Stock-Datsun-Chevy-BMW-6AN-1-2-ID-Any-uses-/162584726491?hash=item25dace0bdb:g:8fwAAOSwAKxWa1WB&vxp=mtr

Need more detail. Paint over the old paint would be the obvious answer.

You can get nice long straight pieces of steel fuel line at Autozone, for the return line. They had a selection of lengths to choose from, hanging in the back, and painted a nice dark color. Where did you get the aluminum tube with the channel? I haven't seen that before. I like it. Less work measuring those two points and probably no drilling, just a clamp.

Maybe people are confusing Red-Kote with one of the other tank sealers. Red-Kote is just a fuel resistant polymer dissolved in a prayerful "polar" solvent. MEK evaporates very quickly. 8 - 24 hours is the dry time, for a whole quart of Red-Kote. http://damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf Edit - meant "powerful" but "prayerful" actually seems more appropriate. Spell-correct. Edit 2 - took a bunch or words out.

There's a screen on the inlet tube. Some call it the sock. That's what gets clogged by the sealer, it has small holes. It was referenced in that Hybridz link I posted. The solvents are referenced in the RedKote instructions. He's one trip to the hardware store away. Pour some in the inlet tube, wait a few seconds, blow it through with the air nozzle. Won't hurt the inside of the tank liner, the amount is small. It will just be absorbed.

Didn't realize that that was from a running engine. You need to write more words. Fuel pressure looks good. As Dave says, the problem is before the pump. Probably just a clogged screen/sock on the inlet tube. You could tilt the tnak so the clogged sock is low then fill the inlet tube with mehtyl ethyl ketone (MEK) or acetone. It will dissolve or soften the material on the screen. Then blow it clear with your air nozzle. You can get the solvents at the hardware store. It shouldn't take much at all.

The FSM says "after facing the punch mark on the top of the upper column shaft".

Doesn't it read 32 psi? Fuzzy. That's low. Progress, but still. Don't know why you still have that prefilter on there for the test.

Do both. Really though, you should be deciding yourself. Helps to understand. We're just giving you ideas.

#6 here says it's a fine brass screen. Some people use air pressure to blow it open. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/42740-how-to-cut-open-280z-gas-tank/

He said "two days ago" in the post you referenced. SeK needs to keep us informed. He didn't tell us that he tried driving it with the cap off until an hour ago, but he tried it two days ago. Doesn't sound like a clogged vent issue. The slightly clogged inlet and outlet lines are your biggest clue I think. You should be able to blow through them like blowing air through a straw. Although you followed the RedKote instructions correctly, it's looking like you partially blocked those ports, probably got some on the metal "sock". Since the tank is out why not poke some wire through there and see if you can free them up.

The filter on the vent line is a sign of trying to think about too many things at the same time. Break it down, understand what each part does. You have the tank out and the pump is right there. It's about as simple as it will get. Don't make it complicated. Set up a comfortable piece of cardboard under the back of the car and figure out each fuel and vent line, and how the pump and lines and filter and fuel pressure regulator work.

Dirty battery cable ends.

Sounds like you're getting just enough voltage to run the clock and almost actuate the relays and turn the starter motor. Check the battery cable ends, make sure they're clean, and the battery charge. 12 volts is a half-charged battery. 12.6 is about 90% charge. http://modernsurvivalblog.com/alternative-energy/battery-state-of-charge-chart/

Yes you can. That would be one side of the break-it-down equation. Put a can of fuel back there with both the return and supply hoses in it. Use a longer piece of hose.

Are you a Wu Tang fan? Where does ODB come in? Old Dirty Bastard.

He's selling the 79. He was just looking for a simple answer to a complicated question.

Good luck. There are many possible reasons one beats a Tahoe and one doesn't. Rear gear ratio, for example. And the 280Z's aren't supposed to squat. The 280ZX has a different type of rear suspension. You're way back on the simple side of "fast". No offense. Tuning a car for a certain purpose, like beating a Tahoe, requires attention to many small details. Study up on the basics and you'll figure it out. It's not going to be one thing, like a "cold" air intake.

How many miles does the 79 have? The key to success with these problems is generating and using good numbers, and good descriptions of the problems, and the actions taken. Like you gave mileage for the 83 but not for the 79. Without both, there's no comparison to make. The 79 might have 400,000 miles. You haven't really described a problem with the 79 either besides the idle RPM dropping. And apparently it feels less powerful than the 83. but you don't have any thing to compare, like 0-60 times, or dyno results, or burnouts, or really anything. Sometimes the straight pipe engines are so painfully noisy that they feel less powerful. All of the straight pipe straight six cars I've ridden, since high school to today, have sounded like tractors. Just saying, there's not much to work with here.

You don't have the 79 anymore? The 83 engine is probably in better shape, and set up and tuned the way that Nissan intended.

That's two too many. You could bypass them just for a short test. Then you'll know something. Also, if you're careful, you can connect up your pump and lines and put some fuel in the tank and let it run. Don't let the battery spark. Not really clear what you're doing now. Is the tank out, or are those old pictures? What is your plan? Gotta have a plan. You can run a wire through those ports. The return line should be open, the inlet will have the sock on the end.