Zed Head

That would be unusual, to have a damper marked to 40 degrees. 20 is more common. Seems more likely that the small marks are 2.5. Maybe 7too can measure between his marks. Diameters should be the same so a measurement should correlate. It's odd how little Nissan put in the FSM's about the timing marks. Things only got clear in 73, when they went to one mark on the damper and a graduated tab.

I had a thought about your low idle problem - blow through the hoses and AAR to be sure that when the AAR is open air can actually make it from one side of the throttle blade to the other. That is all that the AAR is for, bypassing the throttle blade. It sounds like the air is not making it past the blade. Air supply controls engine speed. Good luck.

And the next one might be 5. From 1972...

I only added the comment for verification. If he measures the openings it will tell something. I think that I have a ZX tube out in the garage that came with a 1981 engine. A good reason to go dig around.

A 280ZX hose will have a smaller opening at the throttle body. They have a smaller TB.

I see 6 days left. Fun to track these cars around the internet. The dead of winter is not the best time to be selling.

Actually, to go a little further, you might pressure test the system while it's out. The control valves tend to go bad also, besides the common leaky heater core. Some of the guys have developed alternative cores as replacements, and alternative control valves. Worthy upgrades. CO did both. @Captain Obvious

You should replace that small length of heater hose while it's out, accessible. It's 45+ years old.

On the same page is 8445. Shouldn't it be a Fairlady, with right hand wheel, since it was bought in Okinawa? Or did they sell them configured for export? Just asking, don't know... Buy it now $25,200. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-Z-Series-/264108787269?oid=163439575664 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-Z-Series/264108787269?hash=item3d7e1c4645:g:U~MAAOSwVMJcJ5ix:rk:1:pf:0&vxp=mtr

Weird how warped and twisty the pattern looks on the old rocker arms. Even besides the pitting. Looks like a whole lot of wrong. Are you reusing the cam shaft? Better check the lobes closely. Check the wipe pattern there also. Nice pictures.

Can't really emphasize enough how important it is to measure values against specs., for the EFI systems, and also how easy it is. All of these suggestions will show up on your meter at the ECU connector, except for a damaged FPR.

36+ is spec. If you had a hole in the FPR you might get a lower reading but fuel pouring in to the intake manifold. Pull the vacuum hose and run the fuel pump. See if the FPR squirts fuel from the vacuum fitting.

Could also be a pinched/shorted injector wire. It will cause the injector to stay open. That will show up on the ECU connector test also.

Edit - misread your message. If you have a meter, your most effective troubleshooting will probably be at the ECU connector in the cabin. Get The Fuel Injection Book and start probing. Something will show up. Good luck. p.s. was the 32 psi with the engine running or not? Check the FPR vacuum hose for fuel. Maybe your FPR went bad.

It would help if you could add a lot more detail. Many possibilities. Sounds like your coolant temperature sensor is unplugged or on the wrong terminal.

Could have used Troy. I still have memories of the US attempt to go metric. https://www.ebay.com.au/gds/How-many-Grams-in-1-ounce-When-Selling-Gold-Tips-/10000000003240520/g.html The table in your link was interesting. Alrighty, back to building the 24 Oz.

Isn't Australia on a different standard? Imperial maybe? Then metric. I get 675. Or 750, depending on source. Weird. Cleverness gone awry. https://www.nisbets.com.au/conversioncharts 3 x 8 = 240, 3 x 225 = 675 https://www.taste.com.au/healthy/articles/weights-measurement-charts/vnepuhic#cup 3 x 8 = 240, 3 x 250 = 750 Looks like Jeff used the US conversion - https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-weight Found this while I was looking around. Kind of funny, but not really. https://www.nist.gov/

Just tried to break it down to the basic question. 45 + amps is still a giant draw, over the full capacity of an early 240Z generator. There should be smoke,or a blown fuse. if you see that on your ammeter, I think. Could be that the needle got stuck when the fuse shorted. Give it a tap after disconnecting the battery. At least you'll know if the gauge is damaged or not. Edit - on the other hand I might not know how the ammeter works. Maybe the center point is only set with voltage present. @SteveJ knows though.

In the picture your ammeter shows a big current draw. Over 45 amps. This could be because your alternator is not charging, like site said. Disconnect your battery. The ammeter should go back to the center point. If it does it means that you have a very big current draw when the battery is connected.

The risk/reward ratio is too high. One "oops" and your hood corners are dinged up or you have scratches on the fenders. My brain is winning over my brawn these days. No offense. Plus it gives you time to enjoy the moment.

I hang my hood from the rafters with a rope then roll the car to the position that lets me get the bolts in. I take it off in a similar way. Tie it up , unbolt it.

Just noticed this odd ad over at zcar. It's old but who knows. https://www.zcar.com/forum/15-cars-sale-1970-83-240z-260z-280z-280zx/418282-1970series1-gmail-com.html

And odd for the next one up. Three in one. Just collecting.

Is this true? Just seems odd.

Some posters on the youtube channel pointed out that you have the bleed valves on the bottom, for the "upgrade". The calipers are interchangeable, side to side. Pretty common mistake. You'll never get all of the air out with them that way, the air bubble is at the top. From 12:39 in the video. Bleeding from the bottom. p.s. the weight difference over stock is 1.7 pounds, for just the calipers.