Zed Head

If there's "juice" from the center wire of the coil to the center wire of the cap of the distributor then the module is working. Edit - actually, the "juice" that should travel from center to center can't be measured with a typical meter. So if you're seeing 12 volts on the center wire from the coil then your coil might be shorted. If you're talking about "juice" from the coil to the module that's a whole different scene.

Not uncommon to forget to put the rotor head on.

Seems reasonable. You could remove the plug and jump those pins to see if the rest of the system behaves normally. You would be "unsafe" for a short while, but aware of the condition.

It just offends me to see someone accuse someone else, in a derogatory tone, of an act that it turns out they committed themselves. 26th, you can't come in late as a "proxy" for HS30 to defend his honor, by saying that you gave the reference that HS30 left out. It's not abut the information, it's about the original accusation. Actually, I'm surprised that you chose a side, considering all. HS30 accused RHD of being a "lifter" when he was the original lifter. Kettle calling the pot black. Then he dissembled and obfuscated at great length. I didn't read his last post and won't because all of the relevant information is already exposed, in this thread especially but in many past ones. It's all clear.

You din't mention the magazine article at all. And you seemed to have lifted words from it also. All you're really doing is claiming"first" to post the image on classiczcars.com. And what you did is actually worse than what RHD did, in my opinion. He posted the image to learn about it. You posted it and used it, and maybe even used the author's own words, without attribution. I'm not missing the point at all, but you're putting a lot of effort in to avoiding it.

You seem to be be blaming RHD for someone else's "lifting". And the post above mine doesn't show or say anything about where you got it. Are you saying that you lifted it from that magazine? If you did, and didn't include an attribution in the post then you have broken the context chain. #6 here -

There must be some assumptions by Nissan about how people use the shift lever. I shift with my fingertips and lots of wrist action. Some people grab the knob and move their whole arm. I've always like the Z shifter because it's so solidly connected to the metal in the transmission. You can feel the bearings spinning through the lever.

Begs the question - where did you get the image? Is it from your camera?

That ZX bushing does show though, how any misalignments of the holes will be accomodated by the bushing. The ZX bushing is actually pretty sloppy. The Z bushing is flexible rubbery plastic and would take up small errors. You might not fit a brass bushing in, but the factory bushing would work.

Thanks. This one - http://backissues.com/issue/Sports-Car-Graphic-February-1970 siteunseen had the best and most direct and informative answer, I think. And he didn't even add a comment.

The key to the @ symbol is to type the first few letters of the person you want to notify right after the symbol. No space. Sometimes it takes a second for the dropdown menu. @Montezuma If you don't want to add your address, just type in 111 fake address on fake street in faketown, USA. That's what I do. You could also just add For Sale to the title of this thread. It will catch some eyes.

If you create an @ symbol then type the name of a member right after it you'll get a drop-down of member names. They'll get sent a notification. Like this @Montezuma

Do you have any paper work on who built the engine? The right engine builder could add a lot of value. Also, if the engine has no miles on it, it might be best not to get it tuned. The engines are very durable once they're broken in, but they occasionally will destroy some parts during break-in. If you have the paperwork about the rebuild that might be enough for a new owner to take on the risk. I went through something similar recently and got caught in a loop of breaking new things as I was fixing other things. Finally got to a stable point and left a few things "as-is" for the new owner.

That's a ZX lever. Remove the plastic bushing and you'll see the slot that the bushing rides in. It's essentially a self-adjusting hole that changes the bottom arm length through the range of its stroke. I've looked at it but never really figured out exactly what its intent was. There's a spring and it's meant to slide. You could raise the hole to the top of the slot and see if the bottom arm length is longer than the Z rod. I think I've written this before - maybe we should all be modifying ZX levers to work with our Z's instead of swapping Z levers in to our ZX transmissions. They put a lot of effort in to that design. It must have some benefit.

Let's not get our trolling lines all tangled up. Where did you find that image? And what is the real question? Are you asking what a Fairlady Z 160 is? Exceedingly obvious that it's a picture aka image.

Sorry Mike, you don't seem to understand what's happening. I've been using Incognito for 2 or 3 or 4 years. It has worked flawlessly for all web sites including classiczcars.com until a few days ago, when classiczcars,com stopped loading correctly and/or quickly. classiczcars.com is the only site that has a problem. Being a nerdy problem-solving type I went through a wide range of possible causes, looking at malware and viruses and purging old programs that load at startup, and finally decided to try using a "non"-Incognito Chrome window, even though it should have no affect on the loading side, only the end of a session, when cookies and history are removed. And it worked, and it's working right now as I type this. It doesn't really fit Google's description of what "Incognito" is or does, which is interesting by itself. There's more to Incognito than they're saying. I would guess that classiczcars.com loads a large batch of "stuff" on the first time that is then stored and accessed the next time a session is opened. That's why it's back to being fast now. So it's just a curiosity now, about how the internet and classiczcars.com works. I'm still trying to foil the tracking and spying because it's a free world and if I can run fast enough to get away, that's my prerogative. Google used to associate at least a full single session's worth of my personal browsing data to each of my individual classiczcars.com sessions now they'll just get no data. They went too far and exposed themselves. Pretty fascinating, really. I've dissociated my classiczcars.com activity from all of my other internet activity. They created their own problem. No offense. I had to do it, just to be able to get on to the site at all. Ironic! Of course, my ISP is probably selling every single thing I do on the internet to whoever pays anyway. So, a bit of a hollow victory. Edit - something to ponder - why would Google's Chrome in Incognito mode block Google's own ad-sense? Activate synapses....

The charge light should go off as soon as the engine starts. Could be part of your problem. There are several "GM" "upgrades". Not all are upgrades though. An there are many "online" instructions. And don't forget that people like us are the ones putting those "instructions" about "upgrades" online. Air quotes galore...

Seems to be the ticket. So, classiczcars.com gets its own window from now on.

Got a new experiment going. A special Chrome session, using a normal window. Load up all those ads and cookies and stuff and see how things go. So far, I've been out and back in and it's pretty speedy. I'll have to go try an Incognito window to do a full compare, over multiple sessions (ever wonder why they call them sessions?)

You've made some progress. Might have lost your train of logic though. Did you plug the sender back in while the engine was running? Or with the the engine off, then it wouldn't restart? And "the whole process" covers too much stuff. You don't need to do the Start tests becuase you already know that the pump runs and it will start, Seems like your pump control relay might have problems. It might be slow to react or defective. There are two circuits to activate the pump relay, one from the oil pressure switch and the other from the alternator power. Either will keep the pump running. If your oil pressure builds slowly and the alternator function isn't working, for example, you could have a problem like you have.

My mistake, I read "both pieces" as both ears, not the shifter and the ears. I just read the two followups and see my error. I don't have the patience to read properly anymore after waiting for the Google ads to load up. If that's what's really happening. I don't think that there's enough meat there to drill the shift lever, and maintain enough strength to last, though. Better have a spare lever handy.

You don't see how the top of the lever will move the same distance no matter where you put those holes? You'll be moving the lever and the fulcrum. You need to move the fulcrum relative to the lever. Not relative to the object being moved. The point of the short shifter is to move the internal mechanism the required distance (the required distance stays the same) with less movement at the top of the lever. If you don't change the ratio of the top of the lever to the bottom of the lever (moving the fulcrum) then by definition, it won't work. It won't have any effect.

The fulcrum is the pin in the hole in the lever. If you just move the holes you're moving both the fulcrum and the lever. No effect, except pressing on a different part of the same object.

Most tow companies have roll trucks, dollies, and all the gear they need to move that car without damaging it Probably cost less than $100. And you can rent a 15' U-Haul truck for about $60 to move the rest. Sometimes, time and convenience is worth the spending, even if it's only moving a few feet. With the truck blocking the garage entrance you can keep the riff-raff out too.

Weird that you see the pressure drop while it's running but you said that the pump runs when the key is "On". The key should be On after it starts. Did you mean "Start"? There's no reason to remove the starter solenoid wire if you're turning the key to "On". The 78 cars are known for a flaw n the system. If you remove the oil pump sender wire, the fuel pump will run with the key at "On". If it does stay running when you do that then you can focus on the pump control relay and sender switch. The sender has two prongs, one is for pressure, the other is a switch. SteveJ replied while I was writing, hitting the button now......