Zed Head

I think that his is already on a higher number. It's way beyond "after adjustment" and adjustment is to higher numbers.

There is not really a "180 off". There is off though. It could be any number of degrees. But it doesn't matter much if you can get the plug wires in to holes that allow them to spark at the right time. Which I think that you had, because you measured timing with a timing light. On the other hand, there is rotor positioning. If the rotor is on the right electrode but late or early you could get spark jumping to the wrong electrode. But it does look your cam timing is pretty far advanced. Somebody has moved the sprocket to the #2 or #3 hole. If you don't want to set lash or measure it at least grab each rocker arm and see if it's loose.

You probably remember from when you had it apart that there was a short rod that connected the key portion to the electrical switch. I had to add some twist to that short rod to get it to turn the electrical part far enough to work. The click that you hear might be the Accessory relay opening, as it does when the key is turned to Start, to give full power to the starting effort. You could turn the electrical portion with a screwdriver if you wanted to, as a test. You can also get a feel for it by how far you have to turn the key when it does Start. If you have to turn the key as far as possible before the starter engages then you're on that edge.

The whole switch, with new key? Or just the electrical part? You really need to write more words before you "Submit Reply".

The ignition switch can cause problems and kind of fits what you're describing. Either the mechanical part or the electrical part. Sometimes the rod inside the switch does not turn the electrical portion far enough. Or, sometimes the terminals on the electrical part are loose. You have to take it off to examine it. If it's never been off before, you'll have to remove the theft-prevention screws by grinding, filing, or drilling.

Found it. You need to tell us where the "click" noise is happening. And what other things are doing like the voltmeter needle. How long do you wait before trying a second time. Just need more details.

I don't have a "great" on my tach? Is there a conversion to a number? You've kind of changed the problem description. Now you're saying that sometimes when cold it runs fine. You didn't say which way or how far you're turning the key. The BCDD clicks when you turn it to On, from Off. And vice versa.

Not building anything, just curious about these "recent dyno results". Are they published somewhere? Is there a link? Check out the invisible ad that showed up when I copied some text to delete it.

You know, after watching the two episodes, he actually seems like he knows what he's doing and the car does look great. Everybody needs a sponsor if they're going to go big-time. Seems like the Discovery Channel/Gas Monkey crew tied him in to the short time frame and it didn't really work for him. There are some problems with the build, like the turbo next to the master cylinder, and the intake pipe that's laying on the fender well. But he did go with a reputable Z parts manufacturer, in Arizona Z Cars, instead of California Datsun, like SpeedHunters. So, I'd say he's more knowledgeable than the SpeedHunters crew. The Discovery Channel/Gas Monkey crew probably made him cut some corners. Might be why he dissociated himself from the project. A good idea, probably, in the long run. Fast N' Loud has jumped the shark. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jumping_the_shark

What are the engine RPM? If RPM are low you might get some missing and stumbling. The AAR is designed to keep RPM up during the first 30 s to 1 m. When you say 5 to 10 minutes do you really mean 1 to 2 minutes? Time feels longer when things are bad. Einstein's alternative law of relativity.

Normally I'd say not a big deal, the materials will handle a small imperfection. But, considering the amount of force that the axle nut alone puts on the races and spacer assembly, and the loads during driving, a replacement seems in order. The races are flexible, only at much higher loads than you'd see in your hand. You could get abnormal wear on the balls. Is there a B on it? Sounds like zKars has you covered.

The point of the article is that somebody died because the machine failed to do what Uber said it would do. In a very clear and simple situation. The car did not brake at all. It was a complete failure, meaning that it could just as well have failed when the dead women was being completely sensible and law-abiding. Blaming the victim is a distraction.

No, injector #1 shot only half, at most, of what it was supposed to. Assuming that #3 was close to spec. The injectors rarely shoot more, since clogging is the problem, not flow path enlargement. If #3 was under spec, then #1 was even leaner. And lean seems to be your problem. And, at idle, since all injectors squirt at the same time, most of them on to closed valves, and the throttle blade is closed so there is very low air flow, there is backflow of fuel vapor in to the main plenum of the manifold. That could be why you don't see an effect from pulling an injector wire. There's fuel from the other cylinders available.

There were lasers. The autonomous car is supposed to better than humans. "“catastrophic failure” by Uber’s technology" https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2018/mar/22/self-driving-car-uber-death-woman-failure-fatal-crash-arizona

That makes sense. They did the same thing with transmission countershaft bearing shims. Only one size available. Manufacturing practices keep advancing, probably to where they only make one size and it's always in spec. Thank you Edward.

You should post in the Parts Wanted area. Welcome. Looks like someone else wants blue parts too. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum/21-wanted/ We have other members from Holland that might be able to help. Can't remember them all. http://www.classiczcars.com/membermap/

Do some prep work before starting it and you'll be months ahead of just starting it it quick to hear it run. Parts are hard to find and the reman parts aren't very good. If you can clean up the original parts and keep them working you'll save money and time. Good luck.

Take the small wire off of the solenoid and tur the key to Start. The pump should run but the engine won't turn. You'll be able to hear the pump. BUT. Have you checked the fuel in the tank? It's probably turned in to varnish and water and rust. Better to remove the inlet hose to the pump and check, before you pump all of that crud through the fuel system. Ten years is a long time.

No, that's a FAST EFI conversion kit for NA. Here is Megasquirt. http://www.megamanual.com/MSFAQ.htm And the most popular source for parts. https://www.diyautotune.com/ You have a pretty big project n front of you.

The fuel pump should only prime for about 5 seconds. If the relay is working correctly. Then it only comes on when the engine is running or the key is at Start. Megasquirt is the most common EFI upgrade. It seems to be an actual upgrade too.

This should help - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/ Don't assume that anything called an "upgrade" is actually an upgrade. It's only an upgrade if it does what you want it to do better than the original design.

Click through to Made-to-Order bushings. Bushings > Drill Bushings > Made-to-Order > Your choice Might be faster than MSA. A bit cheaper. And the exact size that you need. Drill bushings are hard and durable, meant to resist deformation and wear. Edit - the tolerance looks wide on the made-to-order bushings. -0.4 to 0.4 mm. 0.8 range versus .06 range spec. in FSM. Food for thought though. They'd probably be in range, but there's a risk. You could finesse them in with a whetstone. Those FSM specs. aren't well-defined anyway. https://www.mcmaster.com/#bushings/=1c2xu3g https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bushing

You didn't say what letter you need. Oliver at zspecialties might have one. We were just talking about his huge stash of parts. Looks like he blew up his web site though. You'll have to call. https://www.datsunstore.com/

Is it a gouge or did he grind one face completely lop-sided? Might be making more of it than it is. The dimensions are out there, the two faces just need to be parallel and square to the cylinder. The bearing races are rigid enough to live with a small gouge, I'd think. John Coffey has posted a couple or times about just making one from a piece of steel pipe. You could shorten up what you have, making it square and parallel, then shim it to proper size with a round shim. It's a simple piece. Are all three sizes NLA or just one? MSA probably just takes the orders then has a local machinist make them on a piece basis. Hence the high cost. You can do what they do by yourself. Take the old one and that chart from the FSM to an old-timey machinist and see what happens.

Funny, Nissan labels them A, B, and C in the FSM, but 0, 1, and 2 by part number. Looks like you can still get at least one size though. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft/10 https://www.nissanpartswebstore.com/p/SPACER-BEARING/51573072/43090E4100.html