Zed Head

I think it's the reverse switch. Looks like they might be available out on the internet. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-case/5-speed/23 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-switch-rev-lamp~32005-k1000.html

Sometimes the leak is through the body of the sensor itself. Probably have to remove it and see. Be careful with the wires they get really brittle over time. Many sensors with wire stubs out there.

Look for witness marks on the paint at the bottom of the cartridge. You should be able to tell if it's the edges like gundee shows or something else.

If it's not running great, and you already have dirty plugs then a full tuneup is a good baseline. Set valve lash, check timing, etc. Followed by checking the specs using the EFI Book or the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM. While you have the valve cover off check your cam timing using the notch and groove. If you want to go deeper, measure cylinder pressures too. Then you'll know you're starting point for further troubleshooting. I've spent hours way back when I was first learning about engines swapping parts and "tuning' when all I needed was new spark plugs and points. Many people don't like the fancy "irridium tip" plugs. They recommend plain old standard NGK plugs.

Here's a few.

There are a couple of threads on the site about this exact problem. CO spent a lot of effort in them. Even made a measuring tool, I believe. Search around. Kind of sounds like the inner race and the outer race are not parallel, both cocked a little bit. When the two edges that are cocked towards each other meet you get a bind. Just a guess.

My mistake. You're right. Many of the brake "upgrades" are really just brake modifications. Anything that adds "more" is considered an "upgrade". But, if you put stronger brakes on the front but not on the back then you change the balance. You can get more stopping power with less effort just by changing pads also. It's a fun job and a reason to be in the garage but if you don't go all the way you just end up with an unbalanced brake system, confusion for the next owner, and difficulty finding parts.

The pads will always be close to the rotors, they self-adjust. They shouldn't be generating any friction though, the wheel should spin freely.

I think you meant single piston, right?

If you assume that that is the purpose then you need to be sure it's filled to the top. If it's halfway, you''ll still rust-bind the top of the tube. Maybe KYB uses better paint that doesn't break down and let the shock body rust. Are the people at KYB ignorant? A thin coat of anti-seize might serve the same purpose. The instructions should be more thorough. Let's see what KONI has to say. @KONI Lee What is the purpose of the "fluid"? What is the best fluid for the purpose?

Check the magnet under the stator ring. It's probably broken. The timing could be stuck in the advanced position. Either way though, you can't get repair parts. You'll need a new distributor.

They might have a reason. They just didn't explain it in the instructions. Here's KYB's - https://www.kyb.com/knowledge-center/shock-tech-for-pros/installation-tips/strut-cartridge-installation/

@KONI Lee should know. I'd say it doesn't matter. Maybe he knows why the instructions show 50 mL of mystery fluid poured from a coffee pot.

Actually you bring up a point that often gets overlooked - is this a new problem from out of nowhere, in a car that ran great? Or was something adjusted and now it doesn't work right?

Many replacement strut manufacturers recommend no oil added. It serves no real purpose and just makes things messy. Not sure why they have that in their instructions. Probably better off to smear the body with anti-seize. Here's a similar Koni-in-a-tube setup with instructions from Koni, no oil added. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=11&v=PXSnNZt3NiI

Another question might be "which gland nut is being used?" Do the Koni's come with a Koni gland nut? The KYB's come with their own nut. Maybe KYB gland nuts don't work on Koni's.

Did you fix those lugs? Just curious. That's quite a cost spread on your suspension options. Lowering definitely helps with roll in the corners. But new struts/inserts alone should get rid of the bouncy feeling. You're blending your solutions together. It could still be bouncy after lowering.

How did you diagnose "no spark"? When you "give gas" to an EFI car all you're doing is lowering intake manifold vacuum, and taking the throttle off of the idle enrichment setting. Shouldn't have anything to do with spark though. You might be getting your symptoms mixed up. Will it start with starting fluid? It sounds little bit like you have weak spark. There are other causes for that besides the parts you changed. Have you looked under the distributor cap lately? The ZX distributors aren't very durable, they're known to wear out. Bad bushings, broken magnets.

This part seems most relevant. KYB has been around a long time and probably has it right. 10 mm is about 3/8 inch. You could have a new gland nut made. The gap is just to make sure that nut is clamping the insert and hasn't bottomed out on the strut housing. Make a new gland nut that has longer threads. If you want to make it work. But it seems like the Konis might have a problem. Wonder what other people are seeing.

When I was messing with mine I blocked the AAR port and just opened up the idle screw for starting then slowly closed it up as the engine got warm. I had a leaky radiator but no fan. Took a while to get steamy.

No, it always failed over the years, or required tricks like lowering the fuel pressure to well below the spec. That's how I passed the first time. If I had everything in spec, and tried to use the FIC AFM it would fail. I like the way it ran on the engine, very smooth operation and good performance, one reason I never complained or tried to return it. So I would put it back on after emissions, then try to pass emissions again two years later and every time I've had to remove it and reinstall an older one. No damage, it's like new. It just runs richer. I notice that the spring action of the vane is different also, with the Nissan unit next to the FIC unit. I'll send FIC a message if get a chance.

About 1:40 I was getting worried that something weird was about to happen... You might edit that out. Looks like you could move some water with that thing. 150 HP pump.

Looks like a good one. Is the cig lighter switched though? I seem to recall older cars where it was always powered. It's right next to the horn and dome light which are always powered. No biggy, you can add your own switch.

How many amps does it pull? Might be best to just run a new wire to the battery for a relay, then tap in to a wire that functions when you want it to to control the relay. Always hot, or key at Acc. or Run.

Those two cars are very very different. I'd assume you'll make the second one look like the first one? The first one seems to have title problems. Bring-a-Trailer is popular. https://bringatrailer.com/