tlorber

In your description, you say "this carb". Does that mean that the SU's are no longer there? If you are running SU's you can open remove the dashpots and piston to clean them, and you can clean most of the throttle bodies while they are in place. Then you can remove the float bowls to clean them, the needle valves and the banjo screens. You will need new float bowl gaskets before you begin, since you will probably destroy the old ones during removal. You should try to get hold of, or watch Z Therapy's method for setting float height. They use a spacer (appx 1/2" tall but you need exact height) to set float height correctly. I used their method but altered it slightly (I blew into a piece of fuel line that was hooked up to the fuel intake to determine exactly when the needle valve was shutting off) and set the height based upon that. My roadster has never idled better. This all will make more sense once you watch the video, which might be on you tube somewhere.

Thanks for the info on both the fuel pump and the hoses guys. At first pass, when I put this back together I'm going to try and bypass the electric pump-especially since the car has '72 carbs on it.

Sorry to get off topic here, but in post #3 the diagram shows both an electric and a mechanical fuel pump. The '73 I just bought has both, whereas my other '73 (with a later mfg. date) only has one up front (originally mechanical but now electric. What is the purpose of two pumps? I'd rather ditch the rear one if possible.

You have to remove the plastic panel (via the plastic rivets) to get to the vapor recovery tank.

Someone please get that 5 speed out of the ZX. There's no excuse for letting that go.

As Promised: I did find a couple of cancer spots on the underside, but they seem to be pretty limited in area. Battery is dead, but with the charger on, all electrical seems to be functional. Once I change the fuel lines and the fluids I will try to get her running.

Nix, thanks for the link. That should provide all the info I need. By the way, I went on your site, and you have some very cool products there.

I'm in with exhaust group too, especially at idle. You can also sniff around the motor while its running. There should be no exhaust smell up front.

Okay, I couldn't resist. I saw a '73 on Craigslist that 1) looked fairly pristine 2) seemed well priced 3) was very close by and 4) had a cool seller. Smog equipment is gone and car has '72 carbs. All else is original. I'm knee deep in a truck frame swap that I'm working on, so it's not like I have the time, but you all know the story. The seller's grandmother was the original owner, the seller was number 2. 75,000 on the clock, original paint (don't get me wrong, the paint is worn out and the hood was primed due to the paint flaking off but it's lime green/yellow which I've always liked) and the only rust is some spots on the passenger's dogleg. The car has been sitting for a long time, and is not quite running. I should have it delivered tomorrow. I know I owe pics, so I'll shoot them when I get it. First order of business will be fuel and vent lines since they're completely rotted. ONE QUESTION I have for you: when I was redoing the lines on my current '73 I read a post here from someone that summarized all of the hose sizes to replace with non original hoses. I've been searching but can't locate the thread. Does anyone know where that thread is?

You could always use SEM vinyl dye if you can't find the panels in the colors you want.

In addition to a slightly higher compression ration, the shape of the combustion chamber is supposed to be better for flame propagation. That should be the MN47 head that is often talked about.

Get a 5 speed from a ZX and rebuild it while you still have the functioning tranny in your car. I paid around $250.00 for my tranny off Craigslist, and about $130.00 for the rebuild kit. Keep in mind, that once you have the 5 speed (particularly with the overdrive) you will want to swap out the stock 3.36 with some shorter gears, unless you've already done that.

Also check the seam sealant around the recess for the gas door (you need to pull the interior plastic liner for this). My car had a large leak there which allowed vapors escaping from the filler neck to enter the cabin.

And the tire sidewalls are 90 profile.

You'll notice that not once did anyone say "They Lived", like they do in that Subaru commercial.

I say go with a 5 speed while you have the motor out. Then a 3.7-3.9 rear diff.

I wish I could go. My bite at the apple was a HPDE course last month at Buttonwillow. Looks like a great deal.

http://motoburg.com/images/datsun-610-04.jpg Thanks for the posts. I wanted to get a drive in so I didn't have a lot of time to ask about the cars

I was at Supercar Sunday yesterday and saw these two cars. They kind of look like modern day 610's. Does anyone know what they are?

What John said, but with an angle grinder, it is easier if you lightly cut (score) the entire line first, and then gradually go deeper and deeper with multiple passes. That way the grinding disc won't get "off track" by being on the wrong line.

If you have access to a stud welder and a slide hammer, go with those first. They will minimize any filling you have to do and you'll get some skill in metal bumping.

The only link is to the Targa California web site (I'm not sure why the "roadster" one came up-courtesy of the Ipad). The others are earlier posts from last year and are apparently no longer valid.

So am I the only one that likes it better the way it already is?

Well, I post this notification every year and don't tend to get a lot of traction from this site but I thought I'd let y'all know about the drive coming up. This year the Targa California is being run April 24-26 through Big Bear, Palm Desert ending up somewhere near San Juan Capistrano. They have around 90 cars registered, two of which are 1600 roadsters and 2 Z's. They tend to limit out around 120 cars. It is a great opportunity to spend more time driving your car than working on it, and a great chance to see old sport metal rolling down the road. Here is a link if you're interested; Targa California

You should drive one first to see if you like how they feel. Don't forget that Jon Morton kicked one's a$$ over a season with a 510. I've gotten to the point where I can admire and appreciate the architecture and art of certain cars without feeling the need to own them.