tlorber

Yes, but after doing the high speed balance, go back and check the idle balance. Sometimes you need to go back and forth a few times (including the mixture) to get everything dialed in.

There are a few threads on this site that give a detailed description of shifters and tunnel work required-with pictures. I'm not being lazy or flippant here, but I am on the iPad and it is harder to find and post the links (at least for me) than when on the computer.

1973 Car Warriors 240Z

Stephen, I don't have triples, so I don't have to deal with this problem, but I understand it-you should definitely have support at the point where the cable is pulling. I'm not sure by how much the hole is misaligned, but if it is only slightly off, you could enlarge the center hole with a die grinder toward the direction that it needs to go-when you have it centered correctly, increase the hole diameter with a larger drill bit, and then tap and use a helicoil so that you can use the same sized heim joint (rod end). You could probably accomplish that without removing the manifold from the car.

Dental Floss behind the emblem. Pull out one pin at a time.

It looks like you have round top carbs (which most of us would say is good) with a flat top air box. The kick panels are the cardboard pieces near where your feet go (on the outside foot, not near the tunnel). If you desire you can probably remove a lot of the emission "stuff" that is on the motor unless your state mandates that it remain on.

Got it. Make sure you get a 3 row for the summers here. I saw a couple people advertising aluminum ones on Craigs List that looked pretty nice, and they were only around $150.00. If you do not have a cowl on (which most early cars don't) radiators are not very difficult to change out. Just 4 bolts holding them in + 2 hoses to disconnect. Could be quicker and easier than towing the car to a shop. And you might as well keep the old one. You can either get it repaired as a spare, or sell for scrap at the very least.

If you are talking about the pieces that go around the door frames, I picked up some used Kia Sportage ones at the junk yard ($8.00) and they are perfect. Here is a writeup. Kia Sportage weatherstip rocks!

"Under my plan, energy costs will necessarily skyrocket."

Truly amazing documentation of work. Now I feel bad for even thinking about scrapping a shell that I have at the shop. I had to cut out after the 9th video (you know, work) but I will watch the rest when I have time.

You need to check lug spacing and offset. Those look like they are for a more modern car.

Which window are you talking about? If you just want a quick fix you can probably use silicone. I know that some of the outer hatch seals were hard to come by, but most of the rest should be available.

Mason, The radiator is in Van Nuys. You are welcome to use it until you get a new one. I know it will hold pressure since I drove the car down from Paso Robles. My car tends to run pretty cool though so the radiator was not under much stress. I also have a good radiator repair guy in Northridge. You can email me at tlorber@naicapital.com.

Mason, I was planning on hitting the meet around 8:15 and then going through Old Topanga, Piuma, and then through Mulholland at around 9:15. If you are up for it we can caravan.

Maybe the Mayans weren't that far off.

Mason, congrats on the car. I'm curious where you shot the canyon pics. Let me know if you have plans to go to Supercar Sunday in Woodland Hills (you can Google it). It would be nice to see the car in person. Before you get into beefing up the motor, or swapping it out, you should look into improving the brakes. I'm still deciding which direction to go on mine, but in my opinion they are the weak link in the chain on these cars.

You need to get that car out of there before the garage falls down on it.

Guys, thanks a lot for the input. That thread was great.

On a somewhat related note, does anyone know of a source for motors that will fit on the windshield water bottle? The one on mine is corroded solid. I had a spare tank from a roadster but the motor on that one is in the same condition.

I bought a 135 from Eastwood. If you time it right, you can get it to your door for $300.00. This is a 110 volt unit, which will do pretty much anything you need to do on the Z. It comes with the requlator, solid core wire, and a roll of flux core, so if you want to weld with gas shielding (much preferred) all you need is the tank. There is quite a difference between 220 volt vs 110 volt welders. The 110 v say they will do up to 1/4 " steel, but that is really a push to get true penetration. The other side of the coin is that it is more difficult to get the heavier welders to weld the thin body panels (and I do mean thin) on the Z without burning through. Therefore you need to ascertain what kind of welding you plan on doing the most. I have also learned that I get hotter welds using flux core than with gas, so If I have heavier metals to weld, I will switch out the wire spools and go with the flux core. Go on you tube and watch as many videos as you can for tips, tricks, and input on welders.

Sorry to hear of your affliction-and I think you might need a larger jar. Have fun in the search and hold out for a car in good condition. The more you read on this site, the more informed you will be when the time comes to pull the trigger, (um...if we're still allowed to use that expression).

Was that "grabber" for pulling out the ashtray, or for somehow holding the cigarette?

When you get to the other side, make sure you keep rotating the control arm back and forth as you apply the tension.

I've found that when ordering shirts and jackets you always need to ask what they are made of. If it is a synthetic fiber, order the size that fits you. If it is more than 50% natural fiber, order one size too large or you will be disappointed by the third wash. It always seems to matter to me more when it pertains to car related clothing.

They have about 30 spots left in case any of you are interested.