Pomorza

It did yes, but now that noise is back. Its one of those WTF moments. I drove home and it magically returned the other day. We'll see how it runs after the new new oil change. Jan

That's not true. The sound was there before we changed the chain. That was our number one reason for changing it was that we thought (and with the amount of stretch it had rightly) that I had chain slap. Jan

is the video. It is a rather poor quality but about 6 seconds in you can hear the sound I'm talking about. I'm sorry I don't have a very good camera so this is as good as I can do it. You can hear it also everytime I release the throttle. Jan

While I agree with everything everyone here has said the issue is still why it went away and came back. If it was in fact the harmonic balancer or the cam chain/gear or tensioner how would running a thinner grade oil make the noise go way? And if it was something mechanical how did running sea foma through the intake make the noise diminish and finally go away? The harmonic balancer is tightened to 100 ft lbs or torque by two different wrenches twice. The cam gear is tightened to ~40 ft lbs again by two difference wrenches twice. I did the timing chain with the help of Z train and I'm positive that we did it right. I've checked and rechecked the cam and chain. It has a bit of play (the chain) but not enough to make the noise I'm hearing. I'll try to make a video tomorrow afternoon (2pm Arizona time) and post it here. From there I can only hope that someone has heard the noise before. At the moment I'm planning on switching back to 10W40 and running another treatment of sea foam and see where it went from there. For reference. The noise occurs using Valvoline 20W50 VR1 oil and a Fram TG filter. (and it is NOT the filter as I've run both Wix and higher end filters with no change). When I used mobile 5000 10W40 the noise did occur but went away after some seafoaming action. There's a post here someplace about this same noise. I can find it if that is needed. Jan

I get your point. I'll try to get a video up later this week if I can find the time. Jan

I don't see sludge being in the oil passages as I've run two different desluging agents in the engine. I've inspected the cam and all the oiling holes look good. When the car is running (with valve cover off) there is equal amounts of oil coming from the cam oiling holes. Jan

Hi all Three months ago I did an oil change in my Z. I decided to run a lower weight oil (10W40) as, well it was on sale. In the past (I'm sure you guys might remember) I had a rather interesting noise coming from the top end. Well after this oil change I ran a can of seafoam through the intake and the noise all but disappeared. This evening I did another oil change. I went back to the 20W50 oil I've used in the past as 104 degree summers do nice things engines here. Well the noise is back. Same marble sounds when I release the throttle. Usually appears around 3K or so and lasts until idle. The cam itself is rather loud now. I don't understand why oil weight has this affect on my car. I ran a tad bit of sea foam through the intake but it didn't solve any of the issues. Does anyone have ANY ideas what this can be? It is driving me nuts when I rev and I hear that BLASTED rattle. It scares me. The chain and tensioner are new, BRAND new. The valves are all adjusted the right way. I've checked and rechecked and rechecked. Thanks Jan

I was actually thinking of going there myself. Thanks for the help guys Jan

Battery terminals are clean and shinny. Jan

It is externally regulated. Jan

Went to the parts store earlier today. Batter test 100% good. I asked them test my alternator (with the car on) and their testing devise stated that I have low output. So I'm guessing a new alternator/regulator are in order huh? Jan

To be honest whichever. Keeping the regulator is fine, not having one is fine. At this point I wish to get the car working to a point where I'm not afraid to drive it without the light on. Jan

I may indeed check all the electrical work to the car. None of the fuses (other than the A/C one) has ever reached a temp higher than what I would like it to, that being hot or something. I am running aftermarket headlights (H4 replaceable bulbs to be exact, 55W I believe) so I can see how it can draw more power than the stock ones. What is the best place to get alternators/regulators. There's a place here in Tucson that rebuilds alternators which I'm considering instead of getting new one. Did forget to mention this. I replaced all four of my fusible links about a week ago as one of them broke in my hand (literally). I bought replacements from MSA and they seem to work great. I believe I have a green two reds and a black. I don't know if this makes a difference to my Z's issues. Thanks Jan

I'm pretty sure it is the regulator but you guys tell me to make sure. I connected the positive to the one screw on the alternator with the wires going to it (with the black cover) The ground wire I connected to the ground on the on battery (+). With the car running (lights off) the DMM read roughly 13.25 but was very very erratic (dropping up and down .5 volts). When I revved the car the it continue rising up to and maxes out at 15.5 volts. With the (lights ON) it idles at roughly 13.1 volts again rather erratically. When revved (to 3k maybe) it hits 14V roughly. Again all the readings were very erratic so getting a good reading was hard to to do. Hope this is enough to let you guys know what it is. Jan

Ok so I need to use a DMM on place it on the alternator output to the battery? Sorry I'm familiar on how alternators work just not on how the wires are set up. Thanks Jan

Hey guys. In the past couple of weeks I've noticed that my volt gauge is not stable when I'm driving. At idle it sometimes jumps a bit (to the left and right). When I drive it does evens out but sometime it'll jump up to 16+ and then back down to where it should be. Any ideas? Jan

I used a hose clamp at the bottom of the leaky injector and that "fixed" the problem for now.While fixing the injector I noticed that all the injectors have "Python" written on them. After talking to a few people I come to believe that all six of my injectors are replaced with OE "replacements" . Jan

I think I've discovered the source of the sqeaking. Has anyone ever done this. Is plain ol' white lithium grease ok or should i use wheel bearing grease? Jan

To get it cooler. Start with the basics. Get a thermostat and do a nice flush of the system. See how that affects your issue. Make sure that your fan clutch engages when it needs to. If your going to do the waterpump may a suggest you do the bolts too. The bolts they use have a tendency of snapping if reused (first hand knowledge here) so replacing them with the pump is a good call. Jan

In my opinion 230 is a bit hot for the L motor. Where did you get this reading the gauge or something a bit more accurate? I don't think you will have to upgrade you motor just update it. By update I mean flush the system and make sure all the cooling components work as they are made to. For reference at 75 mph here in Tucson the other day (when it was 105) my Z was running under the midway point of the gauge. Last time i checked it with a thermometer just under the midway point the temp was 185. (*so I'm estimating I was running at about 190 or so) Jan

Personally looking at the amount of rust on the surface I'm afraid to even see the hidden damages. In my honest opinion I would pass. Even if you did you own body work and painted it the color you want I can't see paying $500 for that car. Look at it this way. For the amount of money you'll spend (and time of course) fixing that car up you could buy a Z with less body damages and do the work to that one. Replacing nearly ever panel on the car just doesn't seem like my type of "fun" Jan

Hey guys. Earlier today when I drove my Z I noticed that when turning to the left my steering (or something in it is sqeaking). The front bearing are all new, and I'm wondering if anyone else had any issues like this in the past? Jan

One more question for you guys. Are 810 injectors the same as the ones on Z's? Jan

Replied to...:laugh:

I don't mind waiting it's just that I'm afraid that the leak will get worse. I can't not drive my car as at the moment its my only form of transportation. Jan