Pomorza

Not disagreeing with you, had a quite lengthy discussion about the topic with him. He's rebuilt dozens of Z engines in the past so I'll take his word on it.

@Zed Head he's mostly worried about them popping out while driving. He's had this happen to one of his customers in the past and was very much against using the flat bottomed ones. I did find the JDM-parts ones right after making this post and it'll probably be where I will get them. Thanks for all the help guys Cheers Jan

Sadly not the ones I need.

Hey Gents I'm getting my Z engine restored update the cam to a more aggressive profile (regrind)The engines is pretty much done but I do need custom lash pads for this cam. My machinist has had issues with the flat bottom type lash pads and would prefer the stock type ones (the one with the little dimple on the bottom). Anyone know of a good vendor? I've used Lspecdatsun before, but the machinist is having issues getting what he needs. Thank you Regards Jan

That's 222° is at .050" lift if that makes any difference.

Hey guys Im having my Z completely restored and while at the body shop we go into a rather interesting discussion about the brake boosters. I am updating the cam on my Z to a mile regrind (.450 lift 222°) and my body shop guy brought up a concern. He owns a bunch (read: dozens) of old Mopars that he's updated the cams in and in most of them updating the cam leads to the brake booster being very ineffective due to the reduced vacuum. (example: In his Roadrunner, the brakes will work just fine...the first time, but if you press and let go and press again not so much). So question, for those who have updated their cams, did you have any issues with the brake booster afterwards? Thank Jan

I'm just going off what here. They call it an ECU. My FSM calls it a "control unit". Either way, the analog wizardry box that makes the engine go vroom.

@SteveJ Thank you sir!

Hi gents I'm redoing the wiring harness in my Z and hope someone could help. I've come across these wires - which used to connect to the ECU. Here's what I know Green -> goes to the fuel pump Red/White -> 12V from the battery The two that I don't know are the black/white and black/yellow. From this diagram it looks like the black/yellow goes to the ignition switch among other place and the white goes to the ignition relay and the "IG" part of the fuse box. So would these be 12V switched? I am a bit confused. I've attached photos of the wires themselves as well as the part of the diagram where they are. Any help would be wonderful! Thank you Jan

I'm trying to figure out if this system will fit my Z. Its a 76' with the stock intake manifold. Everything I've read - from the supply side - states that these are for triple carb setups and am wondering if anyone has tried doing it on the EFI cars.

If the header will work with the stock 280z intake manifold.

Anyone know if this system will work on EFI manifolds?

Thank you sir! I'll keep yall updated

What about the red/blue to the hazard lights? Doesn't that need to be connected some way?

Based on the diagram I'm looking at this is what I see: (this diagram) Red/Blue goes from the dimmer to the hazard switch. Green/White goes to the combination switch. Using your previous example I figured another relay would look like this. Green/White -> 86 & 87 Red/Blue -> 85 Dash lights -> 30. I'm 100% sure on that but it makes sense to me. Would you agree? I figured the lights were driven off power and ground but clearly I was wrong. Cheers Jan