St.stephen

One thing that gets me with these cars. People claim to know so much about them, however when it comes time to sell them, nobody ever shoots pics of what IIIIIIII would want to see when buying a Z. Put the thing on a lift, and take pictures of the UNDERNEATH of the car, The battery well, Inner fender well, frame rail cradle support, hatch lip area, firewall, rockers etc. 4 pics of differant angles of the body and, 3 pics of the interior mean nothing to me as well as two top shots of the motor. The interior never plays a part on whether I buy a Z. Interior restoration is childs play and the various pics of the little 'dings' are meaningless when it comes time to have to cut out the floor.

Nice shot Kmack actually I'm lucky this thing isn't near me or I'd be taking it off your hands for sure. The hardest rust repair I see on that one is the hatch area to the right. That gaping hole is a challenge to patch together. Honestly, I love all the rust buckets you guys are afraid to touch!!! I enjoy welding quite a bit so patching some rust spots is no bother to me. The one thing though that would steer me clear is when the inner fender wells go and the entire firewall/battery well area is completely disintigrated. Maybe I should post my pics of what real rustbucket is :sleepy:

Frank is correct. that is the ground wire that attaches to the firewall.

a couple of bucks at most. Let me take it off the seat, snap some photos for you to see the condition and we can go from there. shipping should be really cheap.

I've got one from some old seats I have I could part with.

ttdriver, I;d be interested if the shipping wasn't brutal from CA to Jersey

alright, try that again here;s a link to the site http://www.iaiamedia.be/guillow/frameset.htm

here;s a pic of the kit

I'll post pics of mine when I get out of work.

I was just there hunting for it. I only paid about 60 bucks for it a couple of years ago however I'm sure you can still get a hold of one. It's a real legit kit. Comes with all the rubber tubes to wire up the distributer, to the plugs as well as the clutch master to the slave. I added wires for the strarter and batter terminals as well. the stearing moves, has full blown spring suspension. really a very nice well made kit. Let me hunt around.

2many, Tamiya did make and I beleive still does make the 1/12 scale. Its the G nose RHD, however its still a nice kit. Mine has been unfinished for about a year now, however its almost there. Mostly finishing touches such as the glass and such. I would love a 1/12 scale NA model. I gurantee they are out there....someone has to have one

I haven;t seent he second revell kit yet. The plain old 240. I bought three of the kits with the graphics. I finished two of and have one more to go. I agree with 2many on the fit of a few things. I should take a pic of my ancient can of turtle wax with a green 240 on the can. I found it in my shed many many years ago and have held onto it.

I am in jersey as well. Where are you located??

yeah I was wondering that as well. My immediate picture something relating to the morning after a long night of drinking cheap canned beer :tapemouth

www.victoriabritish.com They have complete seal kits with adhesive for sale for 189.95 (70-73) 239.95 (74-6/75), and 199.95 (7/75 - 78). I have heard mixed reviews about the door seals fit, however MSA in CA also offers seal kits. The victoria british one listed above covers the door, quarter windows, hatch, and hatch glass.

daniel is correct. Some auto parts stores. like my loca NAPA have a turning lathe on site and will turn rotors, drums, and flywheels for next to nothing. As daniel stated this allows you to have a fresh surface for your new clutch. I would also inspect the flywheel for cracks and any other anomolies. I'd give the ring gear a look also just to be certain you won't have any issues with the starter engaging the flywheel. Most replacement clutch kits come with the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and plastic alignment tool. I would agree as well to have a look at the rear main seal while you are in there. If this leaks, you'll get oil in your clutch assembly therefore causing slippage.

Phew...yeah thats a common area to say the least. Your first real task is to get a screwdriver, hammer and a scraper....remove the wheel, sit down....and now the fun begins. Since that area is all tied together, (passenger footwell/firewall, frame rail cradle, and tension compression rod support) you need to get poking around in there to see just how bad the rust is and what good metal is left. thats going to tell you what you have to work with. I have to ask....are you able to do any of the work yourself? Taking this to be done at a shop is not going to be cheap, that I can gurantee. I unfortunately have faced the same repair in the past.

Thanks for the info!! This is very interesting to me and its rather affordable. Man, would this make welding the floor support rails in that much easier! I like your car too. I also have an early 74 260 under restoration along with my 76. how much did you get your car for?

Can you post some info regarding the qwicklift...How much did that run you?

Nice, both of my clutch pedal assemblies are out of my two cars in the garage. I'll be checking them tonight

it can't be any worse than the 78 I sent to the graveyard with no floors, firewall, rad support, inner fenderwell, passenger inner rocker, battery tray and part of the trans tunnel. that was the worst one I have ever come across in my 12 years of Z experience.