St.stephen

keep your head up thats for sure. and if its any comfort I have 5 z cars and aren;t driving any of them at the moment. my red 74 is just about ready to drive as soon as gather the funds together for the insurance down payment. remember one thing, you have something rare. a european 260 is quite rare here and looking at the pic, it looks like yours is in great shape. Looks exactly like my 74 however mine isn't a 2+2. take your time and do it right. it always pays in the long run rather than chasing your tail and do things in stages rather than focusing on the entire project at once.

Just recently going through this, the chrome piece is just pinched onto the top of the door and are available through VB for 59.99 a piece. This includes the rubber "Squeegee" as well as the chrome strip.

I had bought a set years back from TWEEKS. these were flat stock 18ga with the "fram rail" floor support tack welded underneath. They were cut in the correct shape, however only had two bends in them...one in the back and one on the inner rocker side where you tacked them in. they were not easy to bend and shape without the proper metal working skills and tools. I agree with everyone else. if the whole floor has to go, ZED is the only way to go. If you're just patching then certainly 20 or 22ga metal will work and I have used that patch approach many times on Z's that were not going to be completely disassembled and done "frame up" per say.

you'd be better off checking in at www.hybridz.org. That site specializes in these types of swaps.

There's supposed to be four or six bolts that hold the heat shield in place under the intake on the 280. Most of them have either rattled loose and fallen out or most PO's remove most of them and only put two back in because most get fed up because they can be awkward to get in an out. the lower intake/exhaust bolts are located in between the exhaust webbing for lack of a better term. you just need to feel around for them and use a long 1/2 extension and ratchet.

yes that is what needs to be replaced.

could you perhaps calculate shipping to blairstown NJ 07825. I;d be interesed in these.

I just replaced on in my 74 260. take off the door panel and you'll find 4 screws that hold the entire mechanism in place. its possible those have loosened up and the whole assembly is sliding down causing the window to go with it. either way you are going to have to remove the door panel to get in there and have a look.

There's always killer live music going on in philly so if you're in the area, we'l have to get you out and about

I am only about an hour and half from philly so I could def meet up with you if they are still available and you are in the area. I'm keeping my eye on these for sure!

its only a couple of hours. my post may be too late however 1. jack up the car, place jack stand under front mount 2. Remove front tire 3. remove cotter pin in castlelated nut on tie rod 4. insert pickle fork between tie rod and steering knuckle 5. hit back of pickle fork forcing in between spindle and tie rod 6. tie rod will pop out. 7. you'll need to loosen the tie rod from the steering rack. may help to spray with penetrating fluid. 8. installation is the reverse of this process. hope this helps :classic:

its generally referred to as a "pickle fork". It basically looks like a tuning fork. you would put the pickle fork in between the tie rod end and steering knuckle and hit the end of the pickle fork until the end drops out. should only take a couple of good whacks with a heavy hammer. once you drop the tie rod out of the knuckle and begin unscrewing the tie rod end from the steering rack, it helps to keep track and count the number of turns to ensure a relative close match on the reinstall.

I;d be interested, the only issue with selling these is the shipping is killer as they are pretty heavy items and I am located in NJ.

I got the same exact quote yesterday. They are quite extensive with the questions they ask about the application of the vehicle and specific value, usage, etc...however it is quite cheap. www.hagerty.com

Not only is it a dash cap, it appears to be a half cap at that. Also look on the drivers side of the dash...its either a reflection, or its overspray from the door. looks like its missing the overrider on the front bumper as well. I'm not an expert on the 240 seats..and am not sure when the air vents appeared in the seat backs....

If we can calculate shipping costs and its not brutal I'll take them for sure. I am located in NJ.

I'd be interested in them. let me know :classic:

check out Mr Camouflage being a mr. penis.

that car def isn;t running in that picture. There's a host of vaccum lines not hooked up, the block that houses the connections for the pickup coil on the drivers side fender well is gone. The harness that runs along the passenger side of the engine bay doesn't look hooked up either. This ties over to where the pickup coil is hooked up at on the drivers side.

THe "Z" police :classic: I like that one!!!!!