emccallum

My tranny crossmember bushings were shot, so I pressed them out and read tons of posts on the OEM bushings being NLA. I have a couple of different x members from various years, so I figured I could get something to work. I chose to keep my original x member and make a set of poly bushings work. I ordered the black energy suspension bushings from one of the vendors. They are too big and too long for my style x member. I took them over to my brothers house and we put them on a lathe and turned them down to the right diameter and then shortened to metal sleeve and bushings to fit....Tight as a tick! One problem solved.....ten thousand more to go.

I went with the cheaper mevotech and they had the zerk fitting plus new hardware 🙂

Yep, rubber seals are tough. I pretty much have everything in my restoration settled except the major rubber. On several occasions I have gone down rabbit holes trying to figure out which ones to buy. One post says Vintage another PRP then some suggest Kia rubber. I think I am going to wait until the last minute and order, that way I can send them back it they are junk. From my experience if Mike (Banzai Motorworks) sells it, then its top tier. I guess thats the reason he doesn't sell door seals :). What kind of 911's? I bought an 87 911 Cab M491 last year that had been sitting for over 15 years! My first Porsche, super fun car. Looks like you got a really nice 240, jealous looking at all that solid metal!

Very nice find! Congratulations

Slow progress. Waiting on the body shop to get room to take in my car. I sent off a bunch of stuff to get plated and just got the stuff back. I thought they did a very nice job considering how rough the stuff was. I wet blasted and wire wheeled every nut bolt and washer. I think it was 43 lbs shipping! Engine rebuild should be able to get finished now that I have all the bolts and suspension should be back from powder coating any day. Marquis Zinc Plus in Dundalk MD. Talk to Tabitha, she kept everything sorted for me!

That works!

Air chisel has worked for me. Something about the vibration helps loosen them up. Of course heat and kroil oil will help too. I wouldn't worry as much about that nut as I would about the insert being rusted in the tube!

Thanks, I guess I was too young to remember that when watching my Dad/older brother work on z suspensions. By the time I got old enough the originals had already been replaced!

I use the term strut insert. If you have ever fought removing a rusted strut insert from the housing you will reconsider adding a small amount of oil/anti seize just to prevent rusting. I dont recall early z's using anything but an insert. Did they have a true hydraulic strut that used the housing as part of sealing from the factory? I know my 87 911 was made that way, as it was a big mess when I pulled them out. I wasnt expecting all that fluid!

alright!!! Way to stick with it.

When you say flaky, do you mean bad connections or did you have something swapped? So glad to hear that you are getting it sorted. PM me if you need any extra switches to test things. I should have some stuff laying around that may still work 🙂

Undo parts of the linkage to see if you can identify where the sticky part is happening.

Jackpot! I knew there was a zcar antenna around somewhere. I went out to the shop and gave a look around. I thought I had previously gone through all the boxes. For some reason, I missed it. In the bottom of a box was this electric antenna wrapped in a bag. I am pretty certain it came out of my Dads 77 280 right after he bought it. He was into CB radios and bought an antenna that would work with a radio and a CB. The original antenna went into storage. About 30 years ago my mom said I am throwing out all this old car stuff, so come get what you want. I did. The 280 antenna looks to be very similar to the 240. The tip unscrews and the mounting hardware is mint. I fell like I won the lottery. The switch to the right looks to be an early 240. The switch that was attached to the antenna looks to be factory, but I just dont know the 280's very well.

The finished parts shelves are slowly filling up. Note the electric antenna with the pointy tip! That was a bitch to get back working. The plastic cable had come loose from the mast. I heated up the mast and was able to join them back. Not to mention all the crud and corrosion inside. The next to top section has a bend, so at full up it looks like a commercial for Peyronies disease! But it does go up and down, very smoothly. I need to source some new exterior hardware for the antenna. Wish I could find a new mast. I guess I could buy a NOS one on ebay for 4k! Crazy.

I found a new heater control valve on ebay for about $80. It was oem. Now I have to decide if I want to spend the bucks for braided hoses!

The body is on hold waiting for some replacement metal, so I decided to tackle the heater box and other small stuff.. It was in rough shape. I think it was go to party place for the mice. I had to remake one of the flaps, create a new spring, and get rid of a lot of rust. I got lucky and had some products left over from past restorations that I could use. Hood insulation from a BMW worked great for the foam around the heater core and headliner material from an FJ40 for the flaps. The older I get the less trips to the store I have to make.

Making progress!

I am not 100% positive but very, very sure the first picture is the bolt that holds the ground in the right rear corner of the car. The second picture is the wire harness that goes from the right rear taillight area to the fuel sender unit. It has the ground wire.

I have some rental properties and barely raised the rent over the last couple of years. Only enough to cover the increased insurance cost. If I have tenants that have been there a long time and dont give me any problems, I want them to stay! I hate getting new tenants and turning over an apartment.

I have been ordering a ton of stuff lately for my restoration, and shipping is just crazy. At first it really got to me, now its just a new normal. I have to justify it mentally by looking at a few of the recent BAT 240 sales 🙂 I have actually found some things cheaper on Ebay that have free shipping. I do a lot more price shopping and bulk ordering.

Thanks, I have a car dolly that gets the car up pretty high and allows me to roll the tub around. I have a two post lift in the shop if I really need it up in the air. I just dont have the room for a rotisserie. I am maxed out on space and I have a car stored at my sons house, that is overstaying its welcome :). I have been researching the undercoating. From reading and what I found on my car, I am going to use a "undercoating" underneath, then spray body color over it.

Picked up my vapor honing blast box today. Had some time to try out a few parts. Not too bad. I think I am going to like it. I have made a good bit of progress over the last few weeks. I will post up some pictures tomorrow.

I must have bought the last ones. They were actually $2.65. MOOG EV164. Sorry.

FWIW, I just found a closeout on Rock auto. Moog (made in Japan) inner tie rods for $13 each with boots! I also got two sets of outer tie rod ends, as I am pretty certain that the inners will have the same threads on both sides. Looks like I am going to rebuild route.

Thanks, I found the video. I will price check the parts, the inner tie rods were pretty pricey.