hogie

I temporarily used an electric pump on my 72. There is a circuit in the center of the dash that you can fuse to send power to the wires already by the fuel pump. A quick search should be able to point it out for you. I actually ran a ford fuel pump cut-off switch and a relay in line with that instead of an oil pressure switch. I found a threaded hole in the rear cross member that I was able to bolt the pump to.

MSA said to stay away from them as well.....of course they want to sell you an electric one instead.

I replaced my clutch over the winter and just torqued everything to speck. I used a little grease on the pilot bearing, but it was most likely unneeded. The guy that resurfaced my flywheel bead blasted it and made it look brand spanking new.

Oh, to be young again!

Well, I just tried to do the same thing as you and they must've just ran out of distributors. It said my order quantity of 1 was unavailable. Thanks for the tip though, it is a pretty good deal.

Well I haven't bothered with the running lights even though there is a huge pocket for them. The fuel filler is an IPO problem that would be too costly to change.

I have had the car for around two years and thanks to a lot of help from the forum I have it up and running good now. Not only that, but I cleaned and waxed it this weekend.

I replaced my side seals last week do to a slight leak as well. I pried the seals out with a small screw driver and pliers. When I looked at them it didn't look like they were put in with rtv like the manual suggests. I went ahead and pulled the main cap and found they didn't use any sealant on it either. If you have the time go ahead and pull it just to make sure everything is right.

I had to heat mine up with a blow dryer to soften it. My gas tank wasn't anywhere near the car so I had no worries of ignition.

I just passed you as I am going ludicrous speed!

I don't drive mine in the rain because some meathead shaved the drip rails and my knees get wet. I already cleaned and lubed my wiper linkage before switching to the honda motor. My stock motor actually worked reasonably well, but faster is always better for wipers.

After talking to Dave we realized what the problem is. My relay had two 87 pins that were directly connected to each other. If I had one with a pin 87 and 87a it would've worked fine from the get go.

I found the factory diagram earlier today. http://www.4moores.com/280z/files/240Z_Windshield_Wiper_Motor_Connecting_Diagram.jpg

Dave, I got your email earlier, but haven't made it home to send out pics of everything. I must be missing something obvious as everything works minus the parking/dead short. The problem may be in the motor itself as the blue/white wire on the honda end seems to go to ground on both motors. Tomohawk, what year of an escort did you use? One of my motors has a warranty and I am open to other options if we can't get it fixed. Plus there are way more fords in the pullapart here. I have exhausted most of the hondas already.

I ran across the atlantic z car tech tips section and it shows to leave the blue/white wire disconnected. If I pull the relay back out and direct wire all the connections their way I have low and high, but it doesn't allow the park function to work at all.

I have picked up a couple of 97 accord and 95 civic wiper motors and am having issues with the swap. I have tried following the instructions in the stickied post, however the blue/white wire on the honda side is causing me problems. So long as I leave the blue/white disconnected I have low and high wipers. If I leave it connected to the relay on post 87A it causes a short and kills everything. If however, I run the wiper motor for a second so that it is not parked and then touch the blue/white wire to the relay it causes it to park. I could obviously run everything with the b/w disconnected, but would really like it to work properly. Has anyone else ran into this problem before and have a fix? I found tons of posts saying all that needed to be done to the 97 accord motor was grind the output down some.

I was able to tuck mine up tight with it horizontally mounted. It turned out my header wasn't MSA's and it still worked well. Either way, you can't go wrong with the exhaust as it sounds good and is much cheaper than having one built custom.

It looks like rock auto has a 90 and an 80 incher for sale. Does anyone know which to get for a 72? Since those don't get cranked down real hard I would think plastic ends would be fine. The gears that turn them are plastic as well.

Even Autozone has it for $35!

Crap, that is a good deal at rock-auto. My cable is good, but the seal on the end leaks a bit. I will have to check them out.

My stock 72 shifter works just fine. I put it in a close ratio tranny last night. Too bad I haven't tested it on the road yet.

I also sent a pm

I bought an aftermarket kit from MSA last summer and the ends of it aren't too loose. However, they do use zip ties to hold them tight.

I used industrial strength velcro on my clapped out doors. It works reasonably well. I think I saw that someone reinforced panels with fiberglass resin so they would hold the clips again.

If you hadn't modified the slave rod you wouldn't have any slop at all. I couldn't move mine. Now that I have the proper sleeve I could. Without the slave the fork should be able to move at least a little bit freely. Yes, the sleeve being too long puts pressure on the Pressure plate which allows the clutch to start slipping. Mine was driveable and only slipped at full throttle in higher gears.