hogie

I wonder how much the subframe would set someone back? Also, how safe would it be compared to our not so safe tin cans. I am pretty sure there was a thread on getting something like this made, in fact the pics look to be of the same car. I wouldnt mind having the main glass shell and throwing my good bits on it, but I am sure it wouldnt drop the price too much.

Yes, I know....my first post was being silly. However the Zcar gods did not find it amusing and decided to weaken my ignition switch. The relay I added was just to help me crank it over from the key. When adjusting my valves I find a peice of jumper wire does the trick nicely....who needs a switch in the middle of it.

It is ironic that I posted in this thread yesterday, because I actually had to add a starter relay. My stupid ignition switch didn't want to crank half the time on a full battery last night. Luckily, I had a spare relay left open in the box I used for my headlight relays. It was probaly the easiest thing I have done to my car so far.

To add to the sillyness; you could use a keyless entry system to trigger a relay. This relay would then trigger the starter solenoid and there you go! Though I am too cheap to use a switch and have always just used a jumper wire.

I am pretty sure they don't as I have found several plans for a new metal tie down that work with them. I modified one of those to work with my duralast and I had to shorten it down considerably.

I pulled the dome and piston section apart cleaned all the passageways as much as possible with carb cleaner and shot carb cleaner down into the nozzle until it poured out the line. While I had it apart the float valves were replaced as well. The only thing that hasnt been dissassembled is the nozzle assembly. Which I have heard is a PITA to put back together afterwards. Also, it already moved quite smoothly with the replacement lines on it. I was only giving it a small spray, not a full on blast, but I see how that can be dangerous either way and will cut it out.

I have cleaned the top half of the carb as much as possible. When I had the replacement hoses from the rebuild kit on the carbs I was able to squeeze them a little to get fuel to come out of the nozzle. This was both while the engine was running and viewed from above with the carb apart. The bad part is they both sprang a leak so I am back to temporarily using 1/4" line on the bowls to nozzles that was on the car when i bought it. When I spray starter fluid in the front carb it bogs the engine....could I be so rich that my front cylinders arent actually igniting the mixture throroughly and it just seems like I am not running on the front carb? I know that when I had the intake leak spraying the front half bogged the engine, while the rear revved up slightly.

Thanks, it has definately changed a ton. I was hoping to get everything knocked out on the car before he got here, but he came 2 weeks early and pretty much stopped me in my tracks. He was at 38 weeks so baby still came out perfect...well other than the fact he poops and pees everywhere all the time! I am sure you are enjoying your grandkids, my parents can't beleive how much they love mine already.

I can vouch for the 3M adhesive remover. It is good stuff. I used to use the super 77 for headliner installs, but it is only ok. If I remember right that is the glue that sprays on quite thin and doesnt work well. The other spray can at lowes that sprays on the glue really globby works much better. Sorry that I cant think of the number for sure.

I am having one heck of a time getting my 240 tuned up. I have a 72 with 3 screw SU's, and E88 intake manifold, pertronix ignition set to 17 btdc, and new NGK plugs gapped to .032". On top of that I have replaced my fuel filter, added all new rubber lines, and thoroughly blown out the hard lines. Also, I have 20 wt oil in the dashpots. Before I figured out Bruce at Ztherapy was the way to go I picked up some GP Sorensen carb rebuild kits and replaced all of the seals in my carbs, cleaned the screens and reset the float bowls per the rebuild kit instructions. Which at the time said 14.28 mm, this allowed my car to run with the choke open, but I could never get the car set rich enough. It always wants to die with the lift pins up on either carb. Even if I run the mixture adjustment nuts underneath are turned all the way out. When looking at the notes on http://www.teglerizer.com/sucarbs/techtip6.htm. I noticed the fuel level is supposed to be at 22-24 mm below the cap of the float. After using a piece of fish tank line I was able to find my level was at 30 from the top at the rear and around 35 on the front carb. This was done by pouring gas into the fuel line, not pressurized by the mechanical fuel pump. I was able to screw around with the floats and ended up with 9.5 mm front and 11.5 on the rear carb to get the gas level closer to spec. Though Way out of float height spec per the manual. With these settings and the front pin lifted the car will rev up and then idle back down. Though in all honesty the mixture nut can be all the way up or all the way down and it wont make any differance. The front carb appears to be doing nothing at all. I am getting spark to the front 3 cylinders, but pulling the wires wont change my idle. I dont appear to have an intake leak (I fixed it a night or so ago) as it wont change idle if I spray starting fluid or carb cleaner near the manifold. If I spray starting fluid directly into the carb it will start to stutter almost as if I am flooding the engine. Also, when lifting the rear pin the engine dies almost immediatly. I have tried 2.5 turns out as a start, all the way down and get nothing all across the range. Both carbs have been synced at idle and at 1500 RPM with no problem. I guess to get to the point. Does anyone know what the level of gas should be in the bowls if you have removed the floats? Should I go back and try to reuse my factory float valves? I am not real confident in running the car with my little fish tank line and gas hanging out above a hot exhaust manifold. Oh, and the fact that it only runs on the rear carb doesn't help with that anyways On lighter note, my son was born two weeks ago today and my car has taken a back seat to him!

I am planning on getting the wesco belts, but was digging around to see if the factory bits were available still. As far as I could tell the belts are available from $104-144 a piece. At least the _-73 years part numbers were on courtesy nissans website. In the car fiche these look like non-retracbles. The page for Aug 73+looked like the retractables that were in my 72 also appeared to be available.

I know this sounds silly, but when your screw holes are stripped out of the plastic shove a broken off tooth pick into the hole. When you screw back into, it will give the screw something to bite against while wedging itself into the plastic. Though I suppose it is a bit late to tell you that Your mirror should yank out. And bunch of good thumps to the mounting plate will get the new one in.

I have three manual transmissions...I am sure you could swap it if you really wanted it.

On mine the inner edge was warped a bit. This prevented it from being pushed down easily. Check to see if both lines are parallel.

I would be interested eventually as well.

I just replaced the plastic washer under the spring and replaced what appeared to be atf with the all in one 20 wt. Even though everything is now cleaner than before the piston is much harder to compress. Before it didnt take anything to move them up and now it has a lot of resistance like it has a functioning shock absorber. Should it be that hard to move? I am quite sure everything is centered up and the needle isnt dragging.

Doesn't the e-brake adjuster automatically get the slack out?

When I ordered the last time the discount wasnt applied until shipping and everything was calculated.

The sequentials would look good in there for sure.

I want a set for sure, but a new radiator and temp control are next on my list. The price seems decent for once.

Ok I checked out the areas where you had mentioned. The connector at the fuse box itself is in great shape. So far (no heat build up there). The glove box area is not so pretty. At one point the wire at another connector there appears to have lit up. I had actually forgot about that wire being a problem a long time ago. I had already spliced the wire back together at that connection. No heating problems there so far. I will clean the alternator connections tommorow night. The battery cables are already new. 4 Gauge straight the motor motor mount or block (I can't remember which) and 4 gauge to the starter motor. I cleaned up the wiring harness ground connector just below the battery. If there are any other grounds that need attention I dont know about them. I just flipped the contacts on the light switch the other night, but do intend to run some relays in addition. They work now, but appear weak compared to everything i have ever driven. Thanks again...I should have insurance on it in the next couple of days. So it is getting to be time for the shake down run. Hopefully it will go well.

Thanks, I ran it for awhile last night after fiddling with teh connection and it didnt seem near as warm as before. I will definately try to get a new connector in there though as Fire is a bad thing.

What I meant to come across would be the fused wire would run all the way to the fuse block entirely bypassing the fusible link. I could be wrong on this, but I dont beleive I have any shorts at all. I am not getting any sparks when attaching the battery and the fuses themselves are not getting warm. Oh and everything works that is hooked up so far. I just think since the wire is pulled out a bit at this connection that there is more resistance than there should be and it is causing the heat. There really doesnt seem to be any warmth beyond this one connection. Thanks

Well after finally getting a warm day I was able to wash the car and back her out of the garage and try to get the carbs adjusted. After Idling a while I randomly checked to see if the fuse box was warm as I hear those can be problematic. While checking it out I noticed the white with red stripe power wire was really warm at the connection shown in the picture. It is not warm near the battery or any where else that i can find on the harness. Where the electrical tape is the wire appears to be slightly pulled out of the connector. I dont think it will be very easy to reattach this wire at the connector and make a more solid connection. I know that they have fix on atlantic z car club to replace the fusible link on a car. Can I do something similar on my 72? Would it be possible to just run a fused power wire directly to the fuse block and bypass the white/red factory wiring? Would this cause any charging circuit/ignition problems? Is that wire 8 gauge or 10? Thanks

They look hideous, I will be more than happy to take them off your hands and hide them under my hood! How did you go about doing it? By hand or with a buffer and dremel?