manny1973

Darrel Yes replaced all fuel filters front and back. I will try running tonight, I can let it run without driving and after about 10 minutes it dies. Will open the gas cap to see if that changes things. Where is the vent on the 73 that Bruce refers too? I don't want to go for a drive because when it dies sometimes it takes 30 minutes before it will start again.

On my 73 240z, I'm having problems keeping it running. Starts up fine but dies after it warms up. Acts like vapor lock. Anyway, I have new fuel filters front and back, new mechancial fuel pump and stock electric pump in the back. I thought the return line might be clogged so I blow air thru the return fuel line and after the pressure built up fuel started coming out of my fuel rail from the spot I removed the return fuel line. So as the air goes into the tank it forces fuel back thru the feed line. I did not think this is a closed system. Oh yeah I have z therpy 3 screw roundtop carbs. Any ideas on what to check next. Can not drive the car now and spring is here.

Don't forget to put some floor drains in so you can wash the car indoors.

On my 72 I had about 2 inch clearance. I also used the Champion 3 row. Don't understand why your's is so close. Collision damage maybe? You should just remove the fan and go to electric fans, then you would be safe.

I'm on the wait list for John's axles. Going to do the Subaru r180 3.9 switch. Looks like the best way to go for me .http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/78123-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles/

Darrel, When the time comes to do this I'll call you.

Thanks guys. very helpful info. I'll find a white one somewhere.

I don't really know what the gearing is now. It is the orginal stock diff.

I have a 73 240Z with a 4 speed and a stock rear differential. I am going to change the differential to a Subaru r 180 with 3.9 ratio limited slip. Do I need to change the speedo gear in the transmission and if yes to which one. In the future I will be changing to a 5 speed but not at this time. Thanks for your help with this. Manny

Bonzi, Thanks for the info. I thought I might drill a couple of small holes and bolt it on instead of welding but now I'm not sure, might have to get it rewelded. I don't have the equipment to do my self so would have to find someone. What do you guys think about just bolting it on.

Mine came apart a few months ago. My concern is trying to weld it back on. The car has recently been painted and I'm afraid that spot welding the hatch mounting bracket will mess up the paint. Mine came apart at the body mount by the rear wheel. Do you guys think spot welding it back would be ok to do without hurting the paint on the car body?

I had Ron redo my rally clock. It came back perfect like new. I believe he is the only person out there that will redo the rally clocks.

I have a set of 73 Colorado plates I would sell for $25

I put the Champion one in my 72 240. Works great, no leaks or problems.

Put me down for a set. I would prefer the later style.

Carl, would you like to sell your set? I'm interested. Been looking for a set for a long time.

Great info, Thanks

When I put it on blocks I could not hear the noise. I changed out for one r200, solved the problem. Thanks to all for your input.

contact mgood on this forum, He can make one for you

I have a radio You can PM me. Manny

got it. thanks

u joints on the half shaft are good. What is low hanging fruit??

I'm getting a rumbling grinding noise from the drivers side rear end. I thought it might be rear wheel bearings so I put in new ones. Car is back together and the noise is still there. I think it is coming from the differential.. My car is a stock 72 Z. Any thoughts on repairing. Is it difficult to change the rear end? I have changed the fuild and it did not make a difference.

Thanks, Now I have to find one.

I've reviewed the posts and can't find the answer. I'm wanting to change the electric fuel pump on my 73 Z to a Mazda RX7 fuel pump. What year Mazda rx7 pump should I get. Thanks in advance for your help.