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Picked up a 5 gallon bucket of parts cleaner the other day at work. It was on clearance for $11.95 and I got 75% off of that. Anyone know how well this stuff works? Hopefully it doesn't melt my drain pan........and yea, it looks like Kool-Aid. :laugh: New stuff so far. Wagner TQ semi-metallic pads should be a nice upgrade over the original type. If you go to a parts store and order Wagner pads by this application, you'll get organic ones; part # PD161. PD is the prefix for organic pads and 161 denotes the physical form of the pad. MX is the prefix for semi-metallic, and it just so happens that MX161 was a valid part number. I also have new wheel bearings somewhere that I bought a while back. Still gotta track those down..... That's it for now. Hopefully I can get this stuff cleaned up tomorrow and the other side torn down.

I'm finally getting around to rebuilding the brakes on my 260Z. I thoroughly researched the 4 piston caliper upgrades, both for vented and non-vented rotors, and never found any measurements that would confirm if either would work with my current wheels. So, I chose to do a mostly stock rebuild with a few upgrades until I eventually get new (bigger) wheels and am free to do a huge upgrade. I tore the front left down today since it was fairly warm outside. I hope I can get to the other side tomorrow. Pre-destruction. Look at that rotor! :disappoin The brake hose doesn't look much better. All torn apart Rebuilt calipers for this thing are around $50 a piece, so I took these apart to see what condition the pistons and cylinders were in. They look fine, so I ordered two rebuild kits ($3 each ) and will rebuild them myself. Nice looking stuff in the fluid chambers. :sick:

Looking good! I can't wait to see the engine compartment all shiny with clean new parts everywhere.

Unless I am blind, it is missing both the water inlet and outlet for a '78.

Are we looking at the same diagram? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/full.aspx?Page=77 If so, your year ('78?) is not listed for either of those parts.

So, I'm guessing the pits are not just under where the hoses were?

Well, if they are, in fact, pits (metal completely missing from corrosion), then polishing will do nothing to repair them. JB Weld would definitely not be one of my suggestions for a repair, either. Since they are cast, I wouldn't suggest welding. Replacement looks like your only option for a correct, permanent solution. MSA doesn't list either of these parts for your 280Z. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SCC06 Black Dragon doesn't have either of these parts listed in their catalog, either. Z Car Source has them listed but you have to call to get pricing and availability. http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/catid/7691 I hope this helps.

Grab a can of brake cleaner, carb cleaner, or similar product from a parts store. Crank the car and let it idle while you slowly spray the product aroudn the intake, vacuum hoses, balance tube, or anything else that could possibly leak. When the idle raises, you've found your leak. I only suggest doing this if your intake and everything is bare metal still. No clue what brake cleaner would do to hot paint or other coatings.

The catalog in the pic is just a holiday gift guide. I got mine the other day too, and my, how intriguing. Very cute kid, btw. You should get him to help tune those SUs.

What's this distributor that you speak of?

That's very interesting. I wonder who is MSA's source for the keys. NOS, perhaps? They could sell just the keys for more than that.

I agree. Mine is definitely NPT, and I'm pretty sure it is 1/2".

This one? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-7461 The keys come with it? :bulb:

Correct. KEY00-00055 is the one that is pictured (grooves to the left); KEY00-00056 has the grooves to the right. My local Nissan dealership quoted me $9.60 a piece for KEY00-00055 last week.

Hmm, that looks great! I might have to try this kit after all.

I would be interested in seeing some pics of the results that this kit gives. Dave, you seem to take pics of everything; I know you've got something.

Sounds good! Hopefully, you won't need it, but good luck!

***This is for my 2 sided '74 key with the grooves to the left.*** After researching for quite some time, I found that the only key blanks still available (without spending an arm and half a leg) with "Nissan Motors" on them that would work for me are these. Then, I sent a PM to a guy I know on another forum who is a professional locksmith. He works in a shop that has been in business for over 50 years, so he said he would look for some originals (2 sided, grooves to the left, "Nissan Motors" and the "N/Z"). He couldn't find any, so he did some research. He said that the ones pictured above differ slightly in the millings' location and size when compared to the correct originals. They would work, but he found some that are an exact match and really close to the originals. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-1200-SUNNY-B110-NISSAN-510-BLUEBIRD-BLANK-KEYS_W0QQitemZ170403205264QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27acd29090 I'll let you know how they work and look when I get them. I sent him enough money to purchase them and for return shipping. He's not charging me for actually cutting them. Hopefully I'll get them in the next few weeks. I have 2 of the original keys that still work the ignition and all of the locks. The one that I use most often is starting to crack from twisting those stubborn door locks. I'll retire them after my new ones show up.

Awesome! I'll have to miss this one but I'll try to make the next one. Is this a monthly thing or what?

Nice to hear/see some updates. Good luck with the job hunt.

Mine did. Of course, you can double check the settings on the carbs within a minute by reading the instructions that come with them, and it will fire right up.

This is exactly how I did mine, as well. Here are a few pics that might help you. Heater hose coolant paths. Plugged t-stat housing. I forgot what exact plug this was, but I'm pretty sure it was a normal pipe thread (NPT) threaded plug. You'll need a 3/4" to 5/8" heater hose adapter (splice) to neck down from the larger hose coming from the lower radiator hose outlet assembly to the smaller hose needed at the heater core inlet. All parts stores should have these in stock. I chose to throw the heater hose T away, along with the metal line assembly and thermostat that snaked around the back of the head.

Looks familiar! Wherever you read that info.......if it was the general consensus of the participants...........stay FAR FAR away from that forum.

Not trying to be rude here, but some of you guys must have weak engines if you can't run it under 2500 or 3000. My stock L26 with ZTherapy carbs chugs around at 1700-2000 no problem. Hills aren't even much of a challenge for it at those RPMs. I hardly ever downshift when cruising at those RPMs. Maybe you guys need a tune up or something?

The scenery looks beautiful, but next time, take a better camera with ya.