IdahoKidd

Hi and welcome aboard! Lots of info on the car forums boards. I have gotten in the habit of reading every new post and as many of the old ones that I find through searches. It can be addicting. Doing so lets you recognize the common faults and issues and how to prevent and repair. There are some great folks here with lots of knowledge and are willing to help.

Hey wee, welcome to the board. This post is likely in the wrong spot for a lot of help, it perhaps should be over on the car forums portion. My first advice is to go over there and read through the electrical posts and see if you can find a few answers for some of your symptoms. Same for the fuel section. I had most of the same issues with my 77 and found bad gas to be a major player, but my air mass meter (amm) was not working correctly also and it would be just plain powerless. It sounds like you are saying it doesn't have power when it has a load against it. Be sure you have all of the vacuum lines in place. It really sounds like the timing might be a bit retarded as well. I'd open the distributor cap and spray the rotor and all of the assembly, including the inside of the cap, with WD 40. See if the vacuum advance mechanism moves freely. Beyond that, unplug and replug all of the electrical connectors, including the ones at the ecu and check for corrosion, cleaning if necessary. These cars get cruddy connections, especially having sat in humid conditions. And by all means, let us know what you find so that the next guy can lean on your experience. Good luck!

Bummer about the back injury. I've been there. It sucks! And nothing visible so no sympathy from most anybody else either. Best wishes in a healthy recovery. There are lots of cars to replace if necessary so that should be secondary. As the others have chimed in, Autotrader and related advertising media are a good source. I clip them from time to time to put in a file to have a record of replacement value (try replacing a 57 Volvo 444K). If you don't mind sharing, some of us would certainly like to know what happens with the car as far as the insurance issues go. Not trying to be nosey, just establishing a value and some sort of expectation when if it ever happens to us. I am assuming you had uninsured motorist and the "full coverage" insurance? Just liability, which is all some insurer's will allow on a car that old, won't cover you or your vehicle at all. Best of luck!

I've been chasing a rattle in the rear of my 72 (auto) car coming from the strut tower area. After tearing it down last night thinking the insulator was bad (I could see chunks of rubber missing) I discovered the nut in the tube that holds the strut cartridge in place was loose allowing perhaps 3/8 inch of cartridge travel. So, fixed that. I had an insulator from a 280 parts car I had intended to use and discovered the 240 has a rubber puck whereas the 280 has a bearing. I am guessing the bearing was a later evolution and therefore a better idea? I could see no reason at all not to put the rubber puck back in, so I put the bearing in. Any reason not to have done so?

Yes, there is a company in Oregon that does it. They regrind cams as well. I'll have to come up with the name as it eludes me at the moment. A buddy just got his back this past week and was pleased. Local machine shop sends their stuff to them. Seems like a reground cam and all the rockers were less than $200.

MSA is out and 6 months to a year away. A knowledgeable source says they are all the same (except Les's) and all have door seal problems.

I just pulled my records for my last build in 1993. It was complete, reground crank, new cam, new pistons, etc etc. It was $2850 but did include a new clutch and pressure plate. $1500 sounds cheap. I guess mine did have the engine RR to...... (records were from previous owner) so maybe not if you are doing the labor yourself. Be sure to ask if they will warranty their work. A single loose rod bolt or any other component can mean big bucks in a hurry.

"Isn't Dallas, TX about 1400 miles or so from Toronto? Just sayin......." Last I knew, several parcel companies still did business across the border. If the parts are that scarce, isn't the fact that someone has them available, somewhere, worth determining the amount of effort one has to put into obtaining them? Just sayin.....

I have always believed the classic Z to be the original, the 240-280 series. After the original, such as the zx and later, not really classics. The 67 camero is a classic. The 1980 is not. The Pinto is a classic, as is the AMC Pacer. All of them original unto themselves. There has to be something to distinguish it and be readily recognizable. The round fender Chevy PU's from 67-72. Perhaps something that designates an "era", defines a period. One day the Prius will be an icon (a fools folly period-a K car might fall into that category). I tend to believe that a "classic" is a pretty universal acceptance, that is, most everyone is on board calling it a classic. Diminishing availability and a 'cult' following probably helps define a classic. So, in the Z car world, (in answer to your question), the 240, 260, and 280 meet all that criteria. These are also the primary subject at this site, which is "The Classic Zcar Club"

"Thousands invested, will take hundreds." Happens every day. Not in a life time is that car "worth" a hundred grand, but undoubtedly the amount invested approaches that. In real estate terms, it is radically "over built". I'd have to say that most of us are upside down in our cars, it is a matter of how much.

I am sure there is some logic there but it absolutely defies me......

If A = B; and B = C; doesn't A = C? I too have them on my 280 and have had them on my 240. 205/60's work well. As posted, 225/60's are much to much for the wheel. I have the swastika wheels as well and would also assume A=B...........

That car is as hideous looking as the pigeon toed model standing by it. YUK to both. My opinion and I stand by it.

Bruce, Probably won't part with the Volvo. I'm tickled someone else out there even knows what a duet is! I'll attach a couple of pics of the 3 car Volvo club we have. The Z car club here in town has 3 members but at least there are 6 cars. Notice the plate on my 57, it is the only plate in the US that has that. When I got it, I didn't have a clue that Viagra was a little blue pill, I just knew driving this car always gave me a woody. As for my carbs; the ones on the car in question have a large star wheel assembly and a spring between it and the bottom of the carb (my other sets have a knurled knob and no visible spring). This was seized as well and I ended up finally getting it to back out when I cleaned them. The nozzle was so stuck in the carb that I actually pulled if out of the base it was pressed into. I guess I didn't fully understand how it worked when it was back together but am guessing it sets the richness in the run position. (I really need to go get my manual back......). I'll fool with it a little more today. I assume just adjust it to its best running position until I get my manuals? The temp is up to 30 today so it is much nicer to work on things than it has been.

Follow up: It turns out both nozels were stuck so firmly I had no idea they were to be a moving part. 2nd set of carbs were exactly the same, but third set had one side that moved freely and that "turned the lights on". Cleaned them up, cleaned the float bowls and the pistons, put it all back together and cranked and cranked and cranked. Turns out the hot wire to the coil had gotten knocked off when removing the air cleaner. Ugh! So now it did start but has that lean pop on acceleration. I have seafoam in the tank and in the carbs so will let it all cycle through before I get real excited. I also don't think I have the correct amount of oil in the carbs, it certainly didn't take much. The choke works like it should ( I think) and definately different than it did. Thanks Bruce and Kenny! Bruce, I'll be in contact shortly about a couple sets of SU's and a video.

I'm headed out to the garage a little later. I have read several posts about the nozzles moving but nothing about how to tell. Is it a visual thing while on the car, can I tell with a finger inserted? I do remember somewhere on a shelf (aka absolutely no idea where) I have another set of carbs. If I can find them I might have a better look. As a foot note, never loan your manuals to a buddy............ "dude, I don't know where I put them........."

I've read posts until my eyes are burning searching for some sort of answer. 1972 240 3 screw SU's. Car hadn't been driven since 1992 (43K original miles). Cleaned the tank, new filter, flushed the lines, etc. When it is cold (not started) it will crank for an eternity and never fire. Nothing. Spray a little starting fluid into both carbs on the crank cycle it fires and does the lean pop thing. Do this several times and it will pick up slowly and then run along if you hold it above idle. Once it warms up, it runs very well, idles well, drives well and restarts well. But, once it goes cold again, no way to start it without starting fluid and coaxing it along. Once it is started, pulling the choke lever back raises the idle speed and it runs rich. Take the choke off, it works just fine. So, I am guessing the choke is working. (The levers move on the outside of the carb). I know the carbs need a thorough cleaning and when my Obama bucks get here I will have Z therapy work them over. On the other hand, once it is warm there are no starting or diveability issues at all so they can't be all that bad. I am over looking something really simple with the fuel delivery somehow. Any suggestions? Thanks, Leonard