Zedrally

That's exactly the answer I was expecting! Is there anyone out there with a 240 with a VIN between 200 & 500 who can verify how the plate was mounted?

This morning I was thinking about badging, why, don't ask it was just a fleeting moment.....more particularly about the way 240's where badged around the world. We all know that the 240 was known as a Fairlady in Japan, but was it actually badged in English as Fairlady or was it in Japanese characters? If so the what is the calligraphy for this or if it wasn't can someone [Kats or Alan maybe] post 240Z in Japanese.

I'll don the flame proof overalls before I hit the send button!!! Guy's its a well known fact that the early 240's didn't arrive with complience plates attached. Over here the dealer gave you the plate for you to screw on if you desired! So I wouldn't poo poo it just yet. Looking at the photos it may well just be what it is, a low VIN LHD zed. Worth it just to get the plate.

Strange thing occured, whilst I knew what Ed meant ""between the "E" and the "M"."". It wasn't until I actually looked at my gauges and realised there was no E or M. Is this something that only exists in LHD zeds?

Sorry Ed I have to disagree with that statement. Firstly, on every zed I've owned it was generally around the middle. Secondly, I wouldn't trust any zed gauge as they all have there own idiosycrancies. Check for a sludge buildup around the sensor, that can and will affect the reading. The only positive method is to use a direct reading probe to verify what temp your coolant is and cross reference that with what your gauge shows.

FRont struts on a 260 are "beefier"" than 240. The rear I think is the same.

This hasn't anything to do with your previous post about the relay has it? If I remember correctly you had inquired about what I believed to be the indicator relay? MN

Ah, you.ve solved your problem after all!

Sorry, Can't help. Might have something to do with hazards?

Does it make noises when you use the indicators?

Gad, What a problem, How about buying one over here, stripping it and restoring all parts that you need for a LHD version and sending the bits back in the mail over the next few years! Or Find a friend [relative etc] who can store it, buy one when you get here and make up your mind when you leave [if you leave hhhhhhh]!

There are cheaper ways of getting Aussie plates!

Wire off ballast resistor or dead resistor maybe? Haven't heard of problem before. Anyone else? MN

Thinking of bring your car over?

Burt, I kept on getting thrown out of the chat room. Ending with an error message. Very hard to re-enter when the module still believes your in there! That was why I tried to log in as guest. Catch you soon! Mike

oh you lucky, lucky Adelaidians. If you wait long enough, some of the SA list members will be in contact. In the mean time why don't you post some pic's of it.

Where in the world are you located.

Burt, I'm in the chat room if you want to talk about this in real time. MN

Burt, I think you have answered your own question in a round-about way. Firstly, something is draining the battery. Not having experiance in sub zero temperatures I can't quote battery life in these conditions, however the fact remains that it isn't holding charge. Maybe a dud battery? Secondly 5 amp drain on the clock? I don't think that could be correct. If it is then that could be a good reason for the flat battery. Capacitor, this only aids spark. So will not have anything to do with turning the motor over. Alternator, charges the battery but a flat battery needs a good run 2~3 hours to bring it up to charge again. Not at idle either, take it out for a drive. What to do. First Charge Battery overnight, disconnect clock and try again. Question, did it behave like this before? Mike

Burt, I'm a little confused. Is it not turning over strongly, or turning well and not starting first off? MN

Burt this isn't sounding like a mechanical problem, more like electrical. For some reason your battery is discharging, why don't you disconnect the clock and see if this stops the discharge. Another possibilty is a bad capacitor. YOu may be getting spark, but it amy not be a strong spark. I know this sounds stupid, but I had all types of difficulties starting my 260, until it eventually died. [another tread] After replacing the cap, it started each time first time. Hope this helps. Mike

Absolutlety agree, no point in polishing valves if you don't do the port & polish. Although I really can't see you picking up another horse & 2 just by polishing the valve stems, or am I missing something?

How about conductive pin striping?

Guys, Isn't the question whether to polish the valve's, not polishing porting the head?

Never heard of anyone doing this. I would think the effect would be mininmal as the valves stems are already machined. my 2c