darom

I bought a sectional carpet kit from Chester and Herod and wouldn't recommend it to anyone. I posted some pictures in a different thread. Lazy workmanship. For example, rear sections behind seats were not sewn on all 4 sides, the rear large deck carpet was oversized. I had to use a handheld steamer to mold the front sections for a smoother/cleaner look. A lot of trimming with scissors masked the overall poor quality of the product. As usual, I waited for my car to be painted to tackle the carpet installation - that took a year and a half. Once I finally opened the carpet boxes, I realized what I got myself into. My advice is to purchase the carpet when you are _really_ ready to install it.

Here is the main link: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Blue's excellent resources: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html Fuel Injection Bible: http://www.xenons130.com/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf You should research the smog issues on this site as well as on zcar.com and hybridz.org Regards! PS re: distributor If you car runs without backfiring, I doubt your distributor is installed 180* off. Blue's site will have the setting timing procedure: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/index.html To sum it up: you have a long journey ahead of you to pass the smog. Read as much as you can to better understand your car.

Check this thread out: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread44098.html You will need to download your car's Factory Service Manual and the Bosch Fuel Injection "bible". Your timing won't fix the smog failure. Most likely, these are possible areas: - Fuel pump + fuel pressure regulator = need to know the fuel pressure (PSI) - AFM - Water temp sensor (t-stat housing) - ECU (unlikely) etc. You will need to get a multimeter and start checking the resistance at the ECU plug. The EFI "bible" will walk you through. Good luck! Post your findings as you go.

I used a similar product to Dynamat, made by Secondskin (Damplifier): http://www.secondskinaudio.com/ Due to the catalytic converter in my car, I had to double insulate the tunnel portion. It worked and cooled great. I also applied the Damplifier to the roof and doors. Great adhesion properties. They also carry products for the heat/firewall/hood insulation.

what is that yellow ribbed box that is sitting next to the AFM? It looks like an industrial electric motor.

Here is an interesting engine upgrade idea and implementation: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5335430-2JZ-Solstice-Swap

FYI, on my 76 wiring there are 2 unused wires coming to the ECU. If I remember correctly, both are white. Both have female connectors attached. I also had purchased another wiring harness from a 76 which had the same 2 wires. Maybe Datsun engineers intended to use them for something else, and later changed their mind?

Once you establish your fuel pressure rates using an inexpensive inline liquid-filled $15 Summit gauge (installed past the fuel filter), and your symptoms persist: - check your fuel pressure regulator - get rid of the fuel dampener (that was the problem on my 76) Download your car's Factory Service Manual from here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html There are trobleshooting pages dedicated to the fuel starvation. Regards!

You don't need to buy an AFM from MSA. I got mine from Amazon for $150 shipped. Of course, per previous posters' advice, test your electronics first before committing cash.

GreenZ, what was the part number of these plugs? Thanks. I used SecondSkin insulation to cover those access holes.

There were a few other car shows mentioned here. If you really want to see a bad rebuilding show, check the "Desert Car Kings" out. I am a hotrod classic nut case - I have a 67 Camaro, every time this show is up, I feel the pain for the person who is about to purchase one of their 'rebuilds' at the auction. The idea of the show is to portray the owners of the car junk yard picking a project to quickly rebuild it and make some quick cash using their junk yard engines, frames etc. In addition they own a towing business. The paint prep is horrible, I remember seeing the remainder of the rust on the surface before they sprayed it. As long as the engine's oil dip stick shows clean oil, they re-use the engine. I would be really afraid to drive a car with such poor craftsmanship. I do agree with Chip's dedication and honest work that goes into his projects during the 'Overhaulin' shows. If the frame shows rust, they bead blast it, cut out the worst pieces etc. I did try to convince my wife to contact the show producers and suggest my 67 for an overhaul :-) The taxes owed past the show scared both of us.

That is a lot of rust, the carper will need to be replaced. Who knows what is underneath it? If he is willing to lower the price, you can sell parts off (it is time consuming though): - tires/rims - ~$150-200 - rear hatch louver - ~$50-100 - central console - ~$50 - glass and engine parts etc. It is tough when one doesn't have a garage to store the car.

I remember seeing a guy on hybridz.org selling fiber glass door panels with or without 6 1/2" speaker holes. It might be a cheaper route. I reupholstered mine (the backing was in a good shape) at the local shop.

IMHO, this is a major undertaking. Do you have skills and tools or money to repair it? I would look for a better car in the $2-3k range.

Same here, installed Wesco seat belts - cheap insurance.

Will 76 belts work for you?

Same here - I didn't want to mess with zerks and bought the zerk-free u-joints. Btw, I am applauding the author of this thread for replacing all u-joints in the back. To me it was the most frustrating painful experience. I was using the Harbor Freight tool/vise with the impact wrench and I still struggled with my original 76 Datsun u-joints. It took me hours to finish them and in the end I managed to crack one of the half-shafts (had to find a used one). A torch helped the removal process. Next time I am going to freeze the u-joints. My driveshaft and exhaust were out of the car when I r&r'ed the rear differential/bushings and when I went to install it, I couldn't get 1/4 inch clearance to insert the yoke shaft into the transmission. I had to support the tranny with the jack, lower it at an angle to finish the job. I guess on 240z's you guys don't have this problem?

In addition to a bigger battery, install the Ford starter solenoid and run bigger cables to your starter/battery.

Silvey, jack the rear of the car by placing the jack under the diff pumpkin. Now try lifting and lowering the pass. side strut assembly. I suspect the rubber top strut insulator separated/got torn. It happened on my 76 and was making the clunking noise you described. It also can be attributed to the worn diff member top brace. Do a search for a Ron Taylor (RT) differential mount mod. But like GreenZ said, there might be quite a few causes.

I used this place to redo or add connections in my 76: http://www.vintageconnections.com/

It can be the busted t-stat housing gasket leaking onto the exhaust manifold or one of the rubber hoses for the preheating plate where the Aux. Air Regulator is mounted. Mine leaked in both spots. You also probably need to get the mechanic's mirror and check the leakage around the t-stat housing temp senders. Regards!

Found the rear strut insulator.

Does anybody have a used 280z rear strut insulator? I've contacted a few guys on the hybridz and locally, so far no results. I am going to call my parts dept buddy at Nissan. Out of my give-away parts my Chevy 350 block was finally picked up.

I think it was the same PO idiot who sold me his 76: - exhaust manifold bolted down using big a$$ machine screws (it leaked badly) - house door bell knob mounted on the side of the steering column acting as a horn button - hot ignition wire running through Bosch relay to energize the CSV (it worked without this) - 2x4 piece of wood supporting the moon roof from falling inside (I welded that ugly hole shut) - AFM ripped boot fixed with the duct tape - melted wiring on the side of the wiper motor which caused all gauges inside to fry including all relays on the RH side - brake booster had all the brake fluid inside and brakes didn't work, rear break calipers were seized - the engine sounded like a diesel - the timing chain ate away the guides and the chain tensioner fell into the oil pan - and to top it off, cheap Maaco paint job covering all the usual rust spots without any prep!

mjr45, tmohawk and stevej - thanks for posting the links and the picture. I am heading out to the ebay ford supplier.