conedodger

We are talking about two different animals. Static compression is a calculation related to chamber volume and deck height. It's a number that while it may sound dramatic, is only a factor your starter has to overcome to get things moving. Dynamic compression is where the pinging might occur. Your cam overlap should take care of the excess compression. As has been mentioned, you'll want a good ignition system. I'm going with crank fired coil on plug. I would be very studious about selecting your cam. While it can be changed later, do you really want to?

Here is my setup. I hid the gauge in the ashtray which I don't use. I welded a bung in the header after the six pipes collect. Originality or the appearance of originality is a guiding principle to me. This allowed me to tune the carbs as best as carbs can ever be tuned I guess. Then, when I'm done gathering my information, I close the ashtray cover and it's gone!

I would add to what Patton said, balance everything as an assembly, including the clutch and pressure plate. In fact, buy a second clutch and pressure plate so you have a spare when you wear the first one out. The long cranks in the L motors do not like imbalance!

Static compression only effects the starter. Your cam will mitigate the higher compression if you select the correct one. I would use an electric fuel pump. Fuel starvation kills engines. Oh, and the L motors love compression. I once overheated and had to rebuild and shave the head. Wow!

Morton...

Cool! I'm 5 miles away from the entrance at my smog shop!

Thanks!

I believe I actually said 250-300HP. Rebello says this combination of forged pistons, stroked crank and lightened H-beam rods makes up to 300HP and 290lbs/ft of torque. I'm using a ported and polished E31 head with big valves that has been modified with injector ports for the Megasquirt Pro EMS. This is all on Dave Rebello's website if you want to check it out...

Leon, I wondered about the Jenvey Tbodies. I'm trying to restrain myself from getting too wild. I'll watch for your build. BTW, I bought the smog shop in the same complex as Original Customs so I have rollers we can use for tuning! Not a dyno but we can laptop tune without worrying about traffic...

Leon, i don't think of it so much as going to the dark side, as I think it is bringing the car into this century. I get the style of the original which is classic, but the accuracy of a modern car. Let's face it. Stop light to stop light, we get beat by minivans. 300HP and almost that in torque evens that out. Controlling it all digitally is icing on the cake.

FAR 240Z Laguna Seca

I remember these cars...

Leon! My inspiration for going digital! Leon pulled into a carb clinic I organized sporting EDIS and the smoothest idle EVER!

Ahh, I see. I want to use the stock tank so that is out. Thanks for the show and tell...

I understand that there can't be more than 1/8" alignment variation. If it doesn't work, as I said, I have two of the euro dampeners.

I have two of the NLA euro dampeners. I think though that I'm going to use this instead. Pardon the stolen pic from the MSA site. Thoughts?

Madkaw, show me more about your plan. I went to their site but what you've told us so far is pretty general...

I like the idea of a surge tank though. My best friend has a restoration shop and he does lots of fab work. I made him a construction paper model which he will translate into a surge tank with fuel cell like character.

This package came today. Hoke Performance crank fire wheel and sensor mount and sensor along with a distributor plug.

I actually own a dyno. It's good for tuning but not for peak HP and Torque numbers. It will measure up to 150 hp and similar Torque. It's great for lap-top tuning though. I own a smog shop in Sonoma California. This little video was taken just a moment ago from my security camera. Seems like the video upload didn't work, so here's a still. Sonoma Smog Center for you guys in the area. Premium unleaded per Dave Rebello.

15X7 both the Kosei K1's and the Panasports. I'll be switching to 16X7 panasports soon and selling off the 15X7's.

Or, buy a crank from Rebello. Prices are online I think? You can even get the 3.0 liter stroker kit from him. That was my original intention, but I realized I had way more money than time at that point. I now have the time thing under control. I work for a week, then I'm off for a week.

Mitchell, Dave is picking the cam based on my choice to go with EFI. I'm not aware of what clutch he is putting on the engine or if it will even have one. My car has been "enthusiast" owned since new. It has just about every piece of candy they sold out of the Datsun Competition Catalog. Including, the headers. I welded in an O2 sensor bung to be used with the EFI and had them JetHot coated. I have a friend who builds 700hp drift cars that will be building a mandrel bent SS exhaust for me. Many of you Sacramento guys know him. Henry Chung. He's been working on this car since the '90's! The last exhaust Henry built for me was 2.5". I'm going to ask Rebello what I should build with Torque as the goal.