santamaus

I can't say I recall which way I spun it to loosen, but I'm pretty sure it's threaded the normal way. The trick is finding some way to lock the sprocket in place so you can put enough force through that bolt to loosen it up. I *do* remember working up a pretty solid sweat getting it off. Good luck! Chris

er... I may be wrong, but a transition from red to blue is gonna be, well, purple... Chris

Just for fun?!? That one f'ing rocks! Yeah, mine's still brown... Chris

So---who's had paint applied on top of the POR 15? How well does the paint last? The manufacturer says you can paint over it, but I'd expect them to say that! Who has actually had real world experience? Does POR 15 sand at all? If I coat the entire metalwork of the car in it, can I expect to be able to sand the surface smooth and get a good, long lasting coat of paint on it? Or will the the paint bubble, chip, or otherwise turn to crap in short order? Obviously, total glossy smoothness in the engine bay, or under the carpet, underbody, or interior is not necessary, only nice, but the exterior is another story. So, what experience have you? Thanks, Chris

So, if I've got a mechanical distributor (no points) and the Crane PS40, should I not be using the balast resistor on an L26? If not, what's the wiring bypass? Thanks, Chris

To answer... I tried a search for "fan clutch" and didn't come up with any diagnostic posts. I want to find out if mine works or is trashed. There is exactly a 50/50 antifreeze mixture in there--and I live in a climate that freezes and bakes--NYC. The radiator is an original Z unit I believe, and I had it flushed and fixed probably within the last 700 miles. There is no shroud, and I tried to affix the electrical fan from motorsport, but it didn't clear the engine (specifically, the fan pulley). Is the one from Victoria British any slimmer? As stated previously, the car cools itself fine when it's actually moving, it's the stop and go stuff that gets the gauge climbing. So there's something about the fan at low speeds that's not working. I could go for a 4 row and a shroud, but I'd prefer to not overkill the situation if there's something simple I've missed. As for shrouds, are they all fiberglass? What about heat and melting? How much extra heat is shed using a vented 280z hood? Ceramic coated headers? --Chris

How do I tell if it's working or not? It's definitely not seized--how hot do I need the engine to get to make sure it engages? Currently, if I'm just sitting in traffic, or stop and go freeway stuff, the temp gauge gets to the hot side. Is it just heat from the exhaust manifold, or is the fan not doing its job? As soon as I'm up to a good speed, the car cools right down, so as long as there's air flowing through the radiator, the cooling system works fine. I've also gone to the the 160 degree thermostat. Thanks in advance, Chris

...for the replies. I already have the Magnecore wires (I think I got the 8mm ones..) and a higher output coil. I'm gonna grab some NGKs when I get a chance. Of course, when I wait for the weather to be above freezing, everything works almost immediately. Maybe I'm just impatiant, and the plugs aren't so tired after all. Thanks again, Chris

So, it came with NGKs and should stay with NGKs, but what about the iridium, or platinum, or anything else? I'm in NY, so I have temperature variations between below freezing in the winter to well above hot in the summer, and I have a higher output coil and some decent spark wires. Should I just stick the 6es in there, or upgrade to something else? Thanks in advance, Chris

heh... answered my own question I guess... (2400 cc/2 rev)(1 in/2.54 cm)^3(1 ft/ 12 in)^3(7000 rev/min)=296.6 cfm or.. displacement cc/8.090=cfm@7000rpm 321 cfm for a 260, 346 cfm for a 280, and--383 cfm for 3.1L! A link to rebello--with the page of their carb mods: http://www.rebelloracing.com/prod03.htm Have fun! Chris

Is there an easy calculation for this? (Displacement x rpm x 0.5?) Trying it now...

Sylvania makes an HID replacement kit (for 7" rounds). The lack of sufficient weatherproofing behind the headlights, combined with the shortness of the high voltage wires might make for a difficult time with the kit. I'm returning mine in favor of xenon bulbs instead, which allow the use of the stock wire harness (or at lease a similar wire and weatherstripping). Also, as far as high and low beam, the low beams are HID, the high beams are hallogens, and one side of the system's low beam. The wires are spliced into the stock wiring to the high beams, and the lows trip a relay to the higher voltage wiring, ballasts, etc.

Question-- The diagram makes it look like one of the reservoirs feeds the front brakes, and the other the rear. Is there some crossover that I've missed? Does it reside in the brake cylinder assembly itself? Thanks, Chris

Similar questions... different pieces: If I remove the smog pump circuit: Hose coming from air cleaner Pump Hose to T fitting Air galley Backfire valve and fitting to balance tube Is there something else I must think of/do? My understanding is that the pump blows fresh air into the exhaust system, which under normal running conditions just lowers the exhaust density, and the backfire valve senses a change in intake pressure and leans out the intake charge to prevent a hot rich mixture from becoming lean enough (and hot enough) to burn once entering the exhaust system. So, without the air injection, I shouldn't need to worry about the mixture in the exhaust manifold combusting right? BTW--I'm using a 260 engine with SU carbs, electronic ignition, a higher output coil w/better spark wires, and aftermarket header. I ordered the header with smog fittings, since I had them with the stock header, but the fittings are proving to be too rusted to remove without destroying the air galley. Of course, these are discontinued, and necessary for the whole system. I plan on leaving the crankcase breather system in place, since these hoses cause me no trouble, and theoretically help burn off extra gases without actually using anything more than air pressure. In reality, the car pollutes as much without the air injection as with, correct? It's just a difference in pollutants in parts per million of the total exhaust gas which is just mixed with clean air to fool emissions? Thanks in advance, Chris

Yeah.. I put the one from MSA in mine. I already had a five speed in there. It works by moving the pin on the shifter up, shortening the actual lever arm, rather than just shortening the shifter. It came with all new bushings too. As a result, shifting takes a little more effort than it did before. That said, I think the throw between first and second feels like about three or four inches instead of at least twice that. I used the grip that came with it, which is heavy, and quells a little vibration in the shifter, as well as feeling solid. I like it, and think it feels great. That said, the bushings on the old shifter were more than worn out, and the shift motion was not only long, but vague. Don't know what it feels like when it's tight with the normal throw. I'd say go for it! Hope that helps, Chris